Jonsered 820

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Horrigan72

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I'm looking at a Jonsered 820 appears to be in decent shape. Recent rebuild. Aftermarket cylinder and coil I'm told. Said to run well. Have not looked at it yet.

This will be an occasional saw around the farm for bigger wood.

What's the fair price range on this saw no bar/chain?

Thanks in advance for your guidance.

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I have no idea what it might be worth in your neck of the woods- but I was not aware any reputable makers had an aftermarket cylinder available for the model- so you might have an elcheapo cylinder swap of Farmertec type grade on there.
This family of Jonsered do NOT share parts with a Husqvarna family and are more Partner like in design. Having said that, the coil swap is most likely a 288XP coil- that and the clutch are about the only common parts.
Be aware- this saw likely has the original large Jonsered bar studs and will not mount a standard D009 bar without grinding 0.5mm from each side of the bar slot.
Parts for it generally are going to be hard to find and or no longer available.

All that, to me, lowers the price substantially, compared to your local prices for a 281-288 or 385 type saw.

Having said that, these are good saws- not chain speed saws, but good torque- perhaps the "sleepers" of the era and can be turned into 920's easily if you are prepared to cut the transfers down into the case for a substantial power gain...... if you are keen enough to grind a lot of material out of a cylinder that cannot easily be replaced if you goof it up. :innocent:
 
I have no idea what it might be worth in your neck of the woods- but I was not aware any reputable makers had an aftermarket cylinder available for the model- so you might have an elcheapo cylinder swap of Farmertec type grade on there.
This family of Jonsered do NOT share parts with a Husqvarna family and are more Partner like in design. Having said that, the coil swap is most likely a 288XP coil- that and the clutch are about the only common parts.
Be aware- this saw likely has the original large Jonsered bar studs and will not mount a standard D009 bar without grinding 0.5mm from each side of the bar slot.
Parts for it generally are going to be hard to find and or no longer available.

All that, to me, lowers the price substantially, compared to your local prices for a 281-288 or 385 type saw.

Having said that, these are good saws- not chain speed saws, but good torque- perhaps the "sleepers" of the era and can be turned into 920's easily if you are prepared to cut the transfers down into the case for a substantial power gain...... if you are keen enough to grind a lot of material out of a cylinder that cannot easily be replaced if you goof it up. :innocent:
Bob,

That's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. I need a good saw in the 70-80cc range but not necessarily something that has to spend a month or 2 on the shelf while I look for parts. If I told you they were asking $265 right now, what would you think of that?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
Bob,

That's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. I need a good saw in the 70-80cc range but not necessarily something that has to spend a month or 2 on the shelf while I look for parts. If I told you they were asking $265 right now, what would you think of that?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I'm about as far removed from Michigan and US$ values as you get- but gut instinct says, if it is complete, it runs well and you know things like air filters no longer exist on parts shelves- $265 asking price is probably not too bad, offer $225 maybe!
There are people around on this site and within the lower 48 that will have parts for these- so not totally obsolete, just depends on if they are willing to part with what you might need in the future?
On the plus side- if you get it and something breaks beyond repair in the future- you are then holding a valuable parts stash for an obsolete saw! :laugh:

Have a quick search to see what 281 or 288xp's go for in your region and compare prices.
 
I'm about as far removed from Michigan and US$ values as you get- but gut instinct says, if it is complete, it runs well and you know things like air filters no longer exist on parts shelves- $265 asking price is probably not too bad, offer $225 maybe!
There are people around on this site and within the lower 48 that will have parts for these- so not totally obsolete, just depends on if they are willing to part with what you might need in the future?
On the plus side- if you get it and something breaks beyond repair in the future- you are then holding a valuable parts stash for an obsolete saw! [emoji23]

Have a quick search to see what 281 or 288xp's go for in your region and compare prices.
Sound advice. Been a husky fan for a while and looking for a larger xp. Have a ported 346xp and love it.

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If your saving/making money with the saw its a mathematical equation. For 265$ how much work do you have to do to earn that back?
If your looking for longevity and reliability then I'd steer clear of AM parts saws with no bar and chain.
What if the original reason that smoked the original top end wasn't resolved? Are you gonna diagnose it?
There's plenty of saws listed here for sale.
 
If your saving/making money with the saw its a mathematical equation. For 265$ how much work do you have to do to earn that back?
If your looking for longevity and reliability then I'd steer clear of AM parts saws with no bar and chain.
What if the original reason that smoked the original top end wasn't resolved? Are you gonna diagnose it?
There's plenty of saws listed here for sale.

That is a very good and valid point.
Could be the current owner had an air leak problem that cooked the top end, they found some crappy aftermarket kit somewhere (not that I have ever seen any aftermarket kit for these) slapped it on, saw runs so sell it quick!
The original air leak might still be there and a tank or two will see the top end fried again.

I make the mistake of often answering these kinds of questions by looking at it from my own perspective- knowing buying any secondhand saw is going to involve a full check over before it is put to work and never trust what a previous owner tells you!
 
All well said..... .If you are not Jonsereds literate and don't sweat red and simply are looking for a large saw I would stay clear of it. The 8XX and 9XX saw were rather short production runs so there are not a lot of junkers around for spares and dealer parts have been NLA for years. I, too have never seen any aftermarket top ends for these saws. So it might be an OEM cyl with a cheepie AM piston. In that price range you could likely come up with a decent 670 Champ which is obsolete as well but many many more options for parts......not quite as strong but much faster than an 820 in any thing under 24" in diameter. Just MHO.....
 
They are pretty good saws, they share air filter with the 266/268/630/670 saws but aside from that they are on their own. They take a different bar because of the (correct me if I'm wrong) 10 mm bar studs and many parts within the family don't interchange. The 810/910 are different animals from the 20 and 30's.
In my opinion you would be better off to find a blowed up 372 OE on the cheap and rebuild it, the should be all the saw you need.
 
They are pretty good saws, they share air filter with the 266/268/630/670 saws but aside from that they are on their own. They take a different bar because of the (correct me if I'm wrong) 10 mm bar studs and many parts within the family don't interchange. The 810/910 are different animals from the 20 and 30's.
In my opinion you would be better off to find a blowed up 372 OE on the cheap and rebuild it, the should be all the saw you need.
Mostly correct.......except there is no 810......the 910E was the original start of the 9XX and eventually the 8XX saws and is a good saw....the only one of the bunch that was of true Jonsereds design. The others were of Partner/Elux design. One feature it has that none of the others did was a decomp.
 
They are pretty good saws, they share air filter with the 266/268/630/670 saws but aside from that they are on their own. They take a different bar because of the (correct me if I'm wrong) 10 mm bar studs and many parts within the family don't interchange. The 810/910 are different animals from the 20 and 30's.
In my opinion you would be better off to find a blowed up 372 OE on the cheap and rebuild it, the should be all the saw you need.

I always believed the 820 had a squarish protrusion at the base of the air filter that fitted into the air horn of the manifold that feeds the carb- and the 266-670 air filter had an oval flush opening?
 
oh could be I had a 930 super for a while and it had the same filter as a 670 but the others could be different, it would make sense in that family if they changed that too lol
 
The 820/920 air filter is unique and quite hard to find. Single stud hold down, shared with the filter cover. The 830/930 filter is not easy to find but is a much better setup and has 2 nuts to the elbow, the cover has 2 separate nuts. The 670 filter can be used but it will be too tall to allow the cover to be installed. Lots of people swap 930 filters onto 920s--you would need the elbow, filter and both top covers. There are also other important differences between a 920 and 930.
 

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