Jonsered Chainsaws

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They were definitely way ahead of their time, husky wouldn't be where it is right now if it wasn't for jonsered.

Lol, thing is mint
It's hard to say how much useful tech Husky got from Jonsereds. From the 930 on it was a Husky show. It's unclear if Husky absorbed the older Jonsereds engineers when Electrolux Group AB took over things in the late 70's.....or they went down the road into other pursuits.

To me, the 2094 is a better saw than the 394 in features. They are not identical saws as some falsely believe. I would always take a large cc Jonserd saw over a its Husky equivalent....if for no other reason they are more interesting....lol.

Kevin
 
Little different then I am used to with the 2 series huskys.

I watched Bob's video on the differences of jred and huskys.

Now to figure out what all was different about the champ. I see rubber intake boot, impulse line for top of carb.

Looks like a Gil cylinder from Italy.

So what other info?


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All 670's were closed port and had big transfers compared to a 266. The 268xp is much closer to a 670. The Champ replaced the Super II in late 1992/ early 1993, but was just a name change. The 670 Champ was discontinued (at least by Tilton) in 1997. The 670/630/625 were sold side by side with the 2071/2063/2065 for a year or so. The 6xx series went through a lot of small and big changes during it's run. I have hodge podge blend of a Champ and a Super (not II) that is one of my favorite saws to run.
 
All 670's were closed port and had big transfers compared to a 266. The 268xp is much closer to a 670. The Champ replaced the Super II in late 1992/ early 1993, but was just a name change. The 670 Champ was discontinued (at least by Tilton) in 1997. The 670/630/625 were sold side by side with the 2071/2063/2065 for a year or so. The 6xx series went through a lot of small and big changes during it's run. I have hodge podge blend of a Champ and a Super (not II) that is one of my favorite saws to run.
Thank you for that info too. :cool::cheers:
Thats what we put together yesterday on CRG too. Thinking they were holding a 50mm open port 268 cylinder in video and maybe misspoke. No clue. Heck maybe someone had put a 268 open on one as replacement at one time. Was just trying to figure out how 670 came oem.
But all the jred collectors confirm same thing as you.
 
I realized after re-reading my previous post attempting to explain how this pump functions that I had left out a rather important explanation of how the pump adjustment is achieved. This actually has more to do with the outer most small o-ring than I had said.
So you have the adjusting screw with it's tiny o-ring held in place by a flat head screw then the is a plastic plunger or sleeve that slides in the internal bore of the body against a spring that keeps the whole adjustment system under tension. Now as the adjustment screw is screwed in this pushes the plastic plunger down the bore. At some point the plunger passes by the two holes under the small o-ring and seals off the pressure release system. At this point the oiler is at maximum output as there is now nowhere for the pumped oil to go except to the bar. As the screw is adjusted out the plunger starts to expose the holes, releasing pressure and oiling falls off.......the further you adjust out the less oil goes to the bar and more oil is returned to the tank until the holes are totally exposed and you are now at the least oil to the bar. This all is contingent on all the o-rings and sealing surfaces are in good, clean functioning order. Kevin is right...this would be a good candidate to soak in the UC for a while. But is not as complicated as, say, a carb....the passages are all through bored so no blind stops or anything....the holes under the o-rings are rather large. I cleaned them up with a # 62 jet bit but thought even that was slightly loose...I think a regular 1/16" drill bit would work fine.
A lot of other oil pumps adjust the amount of oil pumped by altering/adjusting the length of the pump shaft stroke......these pumps don't....they pump at a constant rate varying with rpm. This is all happening at lightening speed as every revolution of the crankshaft is one complete cycle of the oil pump......which means that if the saw motor is turning 10,000 rpm the pump is cycling 166.6 times a second!!!!

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Quick question. It makes sense how you explain how the oiler works. The book for my 621 says to screw the adjuster out counter clockwise to increase flow. Just wondering if they typed it wrong in the manual.


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Quick question. It makes sense how you explain how the oiler works. The book for my 621 says to screw the adjuster out counter clockwise to increase flow. Just wondering if they typed it wrong in the manual.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Counter clockwise or 'out' makes the oil flow more. Robin typed that wrong but so much else was splendid in his description/pics that I didn't say anything.

Kevin
 
Thank you for that info too. :cool::cheers:
Thats what we put together yesterday on CRG too. Thinking they were holding a 50mm open port 268 cylinder in video and maybe misspoke. No clue. Heck maybe someone had put a 268 open on one as replacement at one time. Was just trying to figure out how 670 came oem.
But all the jred collectors confirm same thing as you.
Yeah.. a 268 Giladoni it Mahle will bolt right up but you would have to drill an impulse line into it to run the Jonsereds carb/choke set up. Or You could mod the impulse corridor in the Jonsereds carb and use the solid Husky intake with internal impulse corridor.
 
Yeah.. a 268 Giladoni it Mahle will bolt right up but you would have to drill an impulse line into it to run the Jonsereds carb/choke set up. Or You could mod the impulse corridor in the Jonsereds carb and use the solid Husky intake with internal impulse corridor.
Gawd a lot of misspelled things in that last post…… guess I shouldn’t post before I’ve had enough to coffee!!!!
 
I'm all set too....good discovery though.
I just bought a 910 clutch cover because much to my surprise, my 'good' one had a broken lip where the dawg screws to. The other one I had, had much chain damage from coming off repeatedly from some PO's misadventures.

I whittled a new piece with a Dremel to weld in. But as Tim(fossil) warned me, I'd have to do many heat cycles on the Mag to try and get all the old oil out of the Mag from the chain. Then I'd have to find someone well versed in welding small casting parts which I think is a no go here.

On a brighter note....I found some metric aluminum tubing to repair my broken full-wrap on my old 80. Everything is fitted and in place.....all the welder has to do is run a nice bread around the tubing. A helper I had threw some wood posts on top of my saw and cracked the full-wrap handle. Then it was a series of bad welding and bad advice. Took it off and replaced with a steel full-wrap that I absolutely hated.

About time to put it right!
 

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As an aside.....I've contacted a commercial bonding manufacturer about a product that will bond back the rubber in the AV's to their metal brackets and withstand oil, gas, flexing and temp changes.

Like a lot of you probably have, I have AV's that are rare or unobtainium that are just torn where the rubber meets the metal. I don't hold much stock that where the rubber itself it torn into two parts there's anything that can rebond that scenario. But metal to rubber....I know there's a bonding agent out there that will work.

Kevin
 
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