Jonsered Chainsaws

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As an aside.....I've contacted a commercial bonding manufacturer about a product that will bond back the rubber in the AV's to their metal brackets and withstand oil, gas, flexing and temp changes.

Like a lot of you probably have, I have AV's that are rare or unobtainium that are just torn where the rubber meets the metal. I don't hold much stock that where the rubber itself it torn into two parts there's anything that can rebond that scenario. But metal to rubber....I know there's a bonding agent out there that will work.

Kevin
I was going to try Urethane Windshield Adhesive
Whenever i change a windshield i have a few other things to use up the leftovers on.
AV mounts was going to be my next use
 
For someone reading this and hasn't heard the old "Don't use the carb to isolation block gasket that comes in the kit on true Jonsereds" speech yet....here's why.....pay close attention to the impulse corridor....should be totally sealed but does not with these gaskets. The last pic is with the correct OEM gasket...perfectly sealed...


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OH-Oh...........'Nuther small engine repair guy operating without enough info........


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Lol!! I bet he's having a heck of a time trying to tune it, hence the question and pic?

Husky gaskets for this are readily available. I've posted the part # before.

Kevin
 
Lol!! I bet he's having a heck of a time trying to tune it, hence the question and pic?

Husky gaskets for this are readily available. I've posted the part # before.

Kevin
Yes the Husky gaskets are good to use or even cut your own....anything that completes the job correctly which the Tillotson ones do not on these saws!! Amazingly it ran and the owner had no complaints with it. I turned in the H&L needles to see where it had been tuned to......pretty normal.....about 7/8 on the low and about 1 1/8 turn on the high....not bad. But....then he loaned it out and when it came back it would not start so he brought it to me. Did the redneck compression test for him and it headed for the floor...not a good sign I says. So he left it and later when I had time I pulled the cyl.......first thing I saw was a pretty deep score but not to wide and the second thing I noticed was how dry the counter weights and lower con rod was. I poured out the gas into a glass jar and sure enough.....not a sign of lube....just plain old straight gas. Shame too....that WAS a sweet piston......machine marks mostly still visible even on the exhaust side after all these years.


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Yes the Husky gaskets are good to use or even cut your own....anything that completes the job correctly which the Tillotson ones do not on these saws!! Amazingly it ran and the owner had no complaints with it. I turned in the H&L needles to see where it had been tuned to......pretty normal.....about 7/8 on the low and about 1 1/8 turn on the high....not bad. But....then he loaned it out and when it came back it would not start so he brought it to me. Did the redneck compression test for him and it headed for the floor...not a good sign I says. So he left it and later when I had time I pulled the cyl.......first thing I saw was a pretty deep score but not to wide and the second thing I noticed was how dry the counter weights and lower con rod was. I poured out the gas into a glass jar and sure enough.....not a sign of lube....just plain old straight gas. Shame too....that WAS a sweet piston......machine marks mostly still visible even on the exhaust side after all these years.


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And the borrower said "sorry"
 
Hi folks, I rebuilt a Husky 61, upping the cc to 268 size and having problems tuning. Runs too fast regardless of H&L setting. Could it be the wrong pulse gasket as above?
No Lee.......unless you didn't get the gaskets in properly or they got damaged during installation. The Husky impulse corridor in the isolation block is bored straight through and lines up with the hole in the carb....they don't have that snake shaped impulse corridor that has to be covered like the old Jonsereds had. It sounds to me more like you are having an air/vac leak issue. On the 61 family it could be crank seals or the thin o-rings that seals the oil pump to the cases on the PTO side or the seal carrier that is also o-ringed to the case on the flywheel side. Anytime I build any of this family of saws I replace all of the above....real easy saws to replace seals in and cheap insurance that your efforts will be rewarded.
 
All ready to put this nice 621 back together. Picked up a good used piston from Brian Plust. Cyl cleaned up easy with some acid and finished with some brown scotchbrite. I had all the OEM gaskets in stock....it also needed a muffler gasket as well. It had none when I took it apart. A new set of Caber rings and we're ready to go!! I will not bother pressure/vac testing this saw because of the two smoking guns found I am confident it's tight.


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I was going to try Urethane Windshield Adhesive
Whenever i change a windshield i have a few other things to use up the leftovers on.
AV mounts was going to be my next use

Should be OK for the AV mounts but constant gasoline passing by might be bad for carb use.

Cured urethane sealants are resistant to occasional splash and spillage contact with typical solvents, and they can tolerate room-temperature immersion in ethyl alcohol and water-glycol mixtures. However, long-term immersion to most typical solvents such as those listed below will cause softening and swelling. • Acetone • Benzene • Diesel fuel and gasoline • Ester solvents • Methyl alcohol • Methylethyl ketone (MEK) • Methylene chloride • Mineral spirits; lacquer and paint thinner • Toluene and xylene.
 
No Lee.......unless you didn't get the gaskets in properly or they got damaged during installation. The Husky impulse corridor in the isolation block is bored straight through and lines up with the hole in the carb....they don't have that snake shaped impulse corridor that has to be covered like the old Jonsereds had. It sounds to me more like you are having an air/vac leak issue. On the 61 family it could be crank seals or the thin o-rings that seals the oil pump to the cases on the PTO side or the seal carrier that is also o-ringed to the case on the flywheel side. Anytime I build any of this family of saws I replace all of the above....real easy saws to replace seals in and cheap insurance that your efforts will be rewarded.
Thanks Robin, do you know of a good source for the O rings? I've seen them as high $46 each.
 
Thanks Robin, do you know of a good source for the O rings? I've seen them as high $46 each.
Your local dealer or Partstree . You want to use genuine Husqvarna o-rings. I generally use partstree. Just easiest for me....nearest dealer is 35 miles away
If you have a 61 with the two piece ign you will need two o-rings...one for each side of the saw If yours is the later one piece ign you will only need one o-ring for the oil pump side. The part number is 740 42 21-00 $5.58 each
Seals are part # 503 26 02-04 $11.17 each
Verify these numbers with what you need and be certain this is what you need.
 
So.......This was a struggle. Assembled the saw and went to start it....pulled kinda hard then noticed the chain moved with every pull.......pulled the B&C, put in a piston stop and removed the clutch drum. Looked like a new rim and drum but could not get it to spin like it should and the inner race that slides onto the crank was mated to the drum. Pulled this all apart......was full of this weird stuff.......looked like teflon tape......was all in around the rollers...everywhere. Finally by soaking in gas and getting after it with a tooth brush, knife and a pick got the thing cleaned up and greased so it worked like it should. Took about an hour.......petro- chemical based but weird ****....

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So.....got by that and got the saw started ....seemed to run alright with a little tweeking.....put a new grind on the chain. Took it to the wood pile and run it like I stole it. Was in 20 inch ash...bar buried......cut real good for a bit but then started getting weird. Kinda over running after the cut. Ok... cleaned and kitted the carb with genuine Tollotson kit and went back outside out side and could just barely get the damn going.....Hmmmmm.....now before I first filled the tank, I pulled the inner fuel line out and looked at the filter.....real good. Took it back to the bench and removed the gas cap.....fuel line was not hooked to the line block....pulled that all out and the fuel line was ruptured.......still had the original line collars. Replaced the inner line with new and reinstalled the collars on the filter and white junction block. Took it back outside and she started up and I ran a tank through it. Little adjustments were needed .......cut through 5-6 20" ash stems and left off the gas and she returned to a perfect idle, every time. Nice saw ....good example of the legendary 621.....56cc saw that runs a 20" 3/8" full comp chisel buried hardwood with all day long with no problem and you can stand on it...even has the original spark plug cover!!


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i only have one jred this 2188cs that i got off ebay for cheap upon checking it out i came to the conclusion that it was assembled from a box of old parts. so i thought i would actually restore it and ended up spending more money than it cost to just buy it new but where is the fun in that. i took care and did everything right and when it was all put together it wouldnt spool up. i finally figured it out but it was challenging. however i got all sorted here is a video of it.
 

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