Jonsered Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
3,159
Reaction score
2,450
Location
Eastern WA
No I do not......but from my experience West Marine products are very good. I use West System epoxies and various additives frequently......not on saws but woodworking and fiberglass work.

Of course you want to use the best stuff but what you are trying to accomplish not allowing those two bare wires to touch each other or go to ground......so whatever you use to achieve that end is what is necessary.
Ooooooooh.....I've been wanting to try that West System on a wooden boat hull for about 25 yrs now....lol! So long, in fact, the boat is gone.:(

Kevin
 

numnutz6383

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Messages
110
Reaction score
58
Location
NE USA
Looking at the can, it says nothing of Star Brite....just a 'Big Game International Brand'. And it says made in the USA in a couple of places.....so not sure why it was recalled in Canada or why that makes any difference.

As I said, I haven't tried them all, but I began to see a pattern; poor adhesion, drying unevenly, too thin and not very durable against even the modicum of friction. Then I bought the Shoreline product and it was much better. I even threw away that yellow can I had of Star Brite.....I really consider it an inferior product.

This looks promising from a marine/RV seller, but I have no experience with it:https://www.ebay.com/itm/303578425301?epid=1022071268&hash=item46aeaf27d5:g:GHUAAOSwyi1a~xjr&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAwNjZR+YB6pUnanbsD1BgDoenK5YjKq8yYdknk25adq9R/UFE4GMlcdYxnBaVKd6XxaruwtCHSFaaOvKQn38s5HXA9xvmQewNLkOZKw2tTaWyJY3FufzUlSyQ0BcvlkJ0vPkam9FsIRDHUAEz1HdRzUYOLMuNjnY3D16qpNOco7Mbrc6vwo2lghZ0kHBHpJqutcMS8DJmE0bempEYzwKg1kD2+j4IXS+JYE4vfh/mT/K383YlFNY5u38mn+TwH52nHA==|tkp:Bk9SR_jK8a-ZYQ


Kevin
This was my source where I got that, scroll all the way to the bottom:
The product was manufactured in the United States by Star Brite Inc. and is distributed by BGI.
Yeah, I mentioned the Seachoice stuff in a reply earlier. Already on order. I was able to get it for $8 at Walmart from a vendor, so it seems like I scored a deal
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
16,261
Reaction score
14,991
Location
Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
I had a gut feeling it was that fork....especially when you said it was bent up. These days, I'm really leary of AM carb kits.....didn't used to be. I go for the authentic Tilly kits......seem to be still out there. The last thing you wanna be doing in a restore is trying to hunt the fault down of a little misshapen part like that which is supposed to be new.

Kevin
Yep....me too.......gave up on AM "tilly" carb kits.....the after market onnes start out ok generally but fail in pretty short order. OEM Tilotson kit have way better staying power and if installed correctly give consistant results.
 

numnutz6383

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Messages
110
Reaction score
58
Location
NE USA
Yep....me too.......gave up on AM "tilly" carb kits.....the after market onnes start out ok generally but fail in pretty short order. OEM Tilotson kit have way better staying power and if installed correctly give consistant results.
What in particular fails, just out of curiosity (I purchased an OEM kit).
 

mogulmasher

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2018
Messages
1,043
Reaction score
1,416
Location
Rochester, NH
Yeah the quality of the rubber used for the diaphragms just doesn't seem as good.

In my case I got a pile of saws including this one from a dealer all with unknown issues. Just trying to get each running at this point.
 
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
3,159
Reaction score
2,450
Location
Eastern WA
I've said it before and I'll say it again....if there is any way possible to find or buy non-ethanol fuel in your area DO IT for your 2cycles!!

If you don't use very much gas a yr, I used to advocate the expensive canned gas. But that YouTuber 'Chickanic' repairs thousands of small engines a yr with her husband and she has 2cycles coming in that are running poorly with the expensive canned gas. She dumps that gas out, puts in her own mix and most often it takes off running correctly. Not a scientific study for sure, but 2 follows 1 and 3 usually follows 2.

In her scenario, I'm not sure if the owners were using the canned mixed gas or mixing their own. I've bought some of the canned gas just straight and mixed it with my oil and had no issues. Just as an experiment because here because I can get the non-ethanol pump gas.

Kevin
 

mogulmasher

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2018
Messages
1,043
Reaction score
1,416
Location
Rochester, NH
Yep nothing goes in my sleds, mower, snowblower, and saws but non-ethy. It's easy to get in northern NH. I keep a 35 gallon gas caddy in my sled trailer and make sure on last ride of year it comes home full of non-ethy for the summer season. I have had good luck with Husqvarna canned fuel from the saw shop since it 95 octane that goes in any base gasket deleted saws I may have. Pump non-ethy around here is typically 90....sometimes 91 octane.
 

highground7

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
8
Reaction score
17
Location
scotland
I haven't looked for one yet but I did find a part number for the o-ring for this particular saw but what had me confused was there wasn't one there when I took it apart .
I'm thinking it wouldn't hurt to just assemble with the o-ring in place .
Ernie
same as the 371/372xp put the o ring back in to your rebuild it causes air leaks if not installed
 
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
3,159
Reaction score
2,450
Location
Eastern WA
same as the 371/372xp put the o ring back in to your rebuild it causes air leaks if not installed
Then as I said earlier....if it has that O-ring then it probably doesn't have a recessed crank seal like as conventional. My Husky 2100 is that way and a lot of other Huskies. How many and what models I don't know.

Kevin
 

highground7

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
8
Reaction score
17
Location
scotland
Then as I said earlier....if it has that O-ring then it probably doesn't have a recessed crank seal like as conventional. My Husky 2100 is that way and a lot of other Huskies. How many and what models I don't know.

Kevin
the o ring is below the crank seal then a sleeve on top of the o ring then a shim washer then oil pump and worm gear sits on top of the shim washer also put some dirko or moto seal on the oil pump bolts as they go into the crank case . the o ring actually sits on top of the bearing the sleeve sits in the middle of the crank seal and on top of the o ring I hope this helps.
 

highground7

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
8
Reaction score
17
Location
scotland
the o ring is below the crank seal then a sleeve on top of the o ring then a shim washer then oil pump and worm gear sits on top of the shim washer also put some dirko or moto seal on the oil pump bolts as they go into the crank case . the o ring actually sits on top of the bearing the sleeve sits in the middle of the crank seal and on top of the o ring I hope this helps.
 

highground7

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
8
Reaction score
17
Location
scotland
Then as I said earlier....if it has that O-ring then it probably doesn't have a recessed crank seal like as conventional. My Husky 2100 is that way and a lot of other Huskies. How many and what models I don't know.

Kevin
2171 has the same crankcase,bearings,crankshaft,seals,cylinder and piston and the o ring as the 371/372xp Husqvarna only thing different with the 2171 is the paint and plastics the three series Husqvarnas are totally different from the two series Husqvarnas
 

numnutz6383

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Messages
110
Reaction score
58
Location
NE USA
I feel the topic of spark plugs has been beaten to death on other parts of this forum, but I really haven't seen this addressed specific to the 451 anywhere.

I'm coming up with multiple different model numbers when cross referencing to NGK from Champion, or when searching specific model application on NGK. Acresinternet.com calls for a Champion CJ7Y. When I cross reference that on NGK's site I get this:
Screenshot_2022-12-02-13-19-58-08_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg
When I lookup the part by specific model, Jonsered 451, the results are as follows:
Screenshot_2022-12-02-13-20-22-38_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg

I get that this may not matter much in the grand scheme of things (or does it), but this is very confusing. That's a difference of one when heat range from one search to another, and not one of the NGK specified models for the saw correspond to any of the CJ7Y cross references. Tell me what to get please.
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
16,261
Reaction score
14,991
Location
Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
I feel the topic of spark plugs has been beaten to death on other parts of this forum, but I really haven't seen this addressed specific to the 451 anywhere.

I'm coming up with multiple different model numbers when cross referencing to NGK from Champion, or when searching specific model application on NGK. Acresinternet.com calls for a Champion CJ7Y. When I cross reference that on NGK's site I get this:
View attachment 1036943
When I lookup the part by specific model, Jonsered 451, the results are as follows:
View attachment 1036946

I get that this may not matter much in the grand scheme of things (or does it), but this is very confusing. That's a difference of one when heat range from one search to another, and not one of the NGK specified models for the saw correspond to any of the CJ7Y cross references. Tell me what to get please.
Ok....I'm not sure how these differences pertain.......but the 451 had three different ign systems......and I'm not a expert but one of the major sparkplug issues with the older Jonsereds was the fact that the plug terminal end would not accept a regular sparkplug end.......the sparkplug end must unscrew so the wire (in this case coil) will connect. Some (Champion) plugs unscrew where as some (NSK) don't......so the plug depends on your ign system requirements.
 

numnutz6383

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Messages
110
Reaction score
58
Location
NE USA
Ok....I'm not sure how these differences pertain.......but the 451 had three different ign systems......and I'm not a expert but one of the major sparkplug issues with the older Jonsereds was the fact that the plug terminal end would not accept a regular sparkplug end.......the sparkplug end must unscrew so the wire (in this case coil) will connect. Some (Champion) plugs unscrew where as some (NSK) don't......so the plug depends on your ign system requirements.
That's exactly how mine connects (via screw terminal), and based on the manufacturer specs, all the plugs I mentioned have a threaded terminal. I've seen this come up a few times with other saws too, multiple different plug after cross referencing vs looking by plug manufacturer. All very confusing. Based on the chart here on acresinternet to look up the cross referenced they all seem to call for the same heat rating of 7. I wonder why NGK lookup calls for a hotter plug.
 

numnutz6383

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Messages
110
Reaction score
58
Location
NE USA
I wanted to remove the starter pawls from the flywheel. I'm guessing I have to remove the nut shown with red arrow. But I'm stumped on how to remove the cap shown with yellow (at least not without potentially damaging something). What am I missing here? Is this just a brute force vise grip situation?IMG_20221203_073621.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
3,159
Reaction score
2,450
Location
Eastern WA
That's exactly how mine connects (via screw terminal), and based on the manufacturer specs, all the plugs I mentioned have a threaded terminal. I've seen this come up a few times with other saws too, multiple different plug after cross referencing vs looking by plug manufacturer. All very confusing. Based on the chart here on acresinternet to look up the cross referenced they all seem to call for the same heat rating of 7. I wonder why NGK lookup calls for a hotter plug.
Bosch WSR8F was the factory plug in many originally ported Swede saws. Acres says on his site what the recommended plugs were for most saws.

Then I went with Bosch WS 7F/RO 925 for a very long time......big Huskies and J'reds loved that plug. I think they went extinct. Then I switched to NGK BPM 7A...had a problem with a few of those failing too early. Finally, I switched to Denso W22MP-U and still have a half dozen of those. Found a seller on eBay selling an original lot of Bosch WS 7F/RO 925's and I bought them all. All of those choices unscrew to expose the thread connection. Other than rust, I don't think unused spark plugs deteriorate.

I don't remember the heat ranges, but all my choices were based on originally recommended plugs. I don't think it's critical in chainsaws as long as you stay near the original heat range path for stock saws. When I was buying used chainsaws, I NEVER saw the same plug in a saw and they never crossed with the original plug types. If your saw is running really hot and the heat fins are clear and everything is up to date, then you could experiment with a different heat range for like summer running. Again, unless your saw is overheating I'm not sure it's that critical....the heat range.

Kevin
 

numnutz6383

ArboristSite Operative
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2022
Messages
110
Reaction score
58
Location
NE USA
Bosch WSR8F was the factory plug in many originally ported Swede saws. Acres says on his site what the recommended plugs were for most saws.

Then I went with Bosch WS 71/RO 925 for a very long time......big Huskies and J'reds loved that plug. I think they went extinct. Then I switched to NGK BPM 7A...had a problem with a few of those failing too early. Finally, I switched to Denso W22MP-U and still have a half dozen of those. Found a seller on eBay selling an original lot of Bosch WS 71/RO 925's and I bought them all. All of those choices unscrew to expose the thread connection. Other than rust, I don't think unused spark plugs deteriorate.

I don't remember the heat ranges, but all my choices were based on originally recommended plugs. I don't think it's critical in chainsaws as long as you stay near the original heat range path for stock saws. When I was buying used chainsaws, I NEVER saw the same plug in a saw and they never crossed with the original plug types. If your saw is running really hot and the heat fins are clear and everything is up to date, then you could experiment with a different heat range for like summer running. Again, unless your saw is overheating I'm not sure it's that critical....the heat range.

Kevin

If I'm thinking about experimenting with heat ranges, I'm getting way ahead of myself. I need to get the saw together and running first. I ordered a few of those Densos, and the NGKs you mentioned. I'll return the NGKs.

Any steering wheel puller recommendations? I'm going to hopefully have the time to remove the clutch and flywheel on Monday, so I want to get what I need tomorrow. Anything to keep in mind in regards to a woodruff key when pulling?
 
Joined
Jul 31, 2009
Messages
3,159
Reaction score
2,450
Location
Eastern WA
If I'm thinking about experimenting with heat ranges, I'm getting way ahead of myself. I need to get the saw together and running first. I ordered a few of those Densos, and the NGKs you mentioned. I'll return the NGKs.

Any steering wheel puller recommendations? I'm going to hopefully have the time to remove the clutch and flywheel on Monday, so I want to get what I need tomorrow. Anything to keep in mind in regards to a woodruff key when pulling?
Smaller the better on steering wheel pullers. There was a member that came in here once who was a machinist and offered to make pullers for J'reds. They were real beauties and so I was able to abandon the steering wheel puller.

You'll have to buy your own puller bolts and most likely stack fender washers under the heads to make them work on the puller's bar shape configuration. Sometimes a puller hole will strip out on your flywheel....I just tap to the next metric size and upsize the metric puller bolt....not rocket science. Therefore, inside the puller bag I have two sizes of puller bolts all ready with attendant fender washer stacks. Just make sure when you screw your puller bolts in, that you only go the thickness of the flywheel. Anymore and you can easily damage modules/points underneath. ...

Never had an issue with the keys.....that I remember. The Bosch WS 7F was THE standard for Husky/Jonsereds for a very long time(I miss-typed earlier, but corrected it).

Kevin
 
Top