Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

Like Robin said, the pin can be pressed into the piston bosses....no big deal....unless it's crazy tight and cracks a boss(unlikely).

Now the bearing itself shouldn't be a press fit into the conrod(never seen that), nor should there be any indication of binding with the new bearing and the wrist pin. If there's no appreciable wear on the old wrist pin/bearing and it seems to fit better, use them. Actually, I'd be in favor of the old bearing and wrist pin if they look low hr.....just because they are probably better material.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Like Robin said, the pin can be pressed into the piston bosses....no big deal....unless it's crazy tight and cracks a boss(unlikely).

Now the bearing itself shouldn't be a press fit into the conrod(never seen that), nor should there be any indication of binding with the new bearing and the wrist pin. If there's no appreciable wear on the old wrist pin/bearing and it seems to fit better, use them. Actually, I'd be in favor of the old bearing and wrist pin if they look low hr.....just because they are probably better material.

Kevin

I agree.....I wouldn't hesitate to use the old bearing.....gotta remember these bearings don't spin ...they just rock back an forth 5-6 degrees or so....as long as there's no up and down play I'd go with the old bearing as I believe it's better made like Kevin said.

Oh and as far as torque for the cyl base bolts.....if you use a Tee handle you really can't over torque it....take them up as tight as you can until the shaft starts to twist.

 

[Real1shepherd]

"Oh and as far as torque for the cyl base bolts.....if you use a Tee handle you really can't over torque it....take them up as tight as you can until the shaft starts to twist."

I was trying to figure out how to write that....lol! Some T-handles are rigid and some are like metal loops. The loop kind is exactly what I've always had and flex like crazy when you get head bolts tight.



Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

"Oh and as far as torque for the cyl base bolts.....if you use a Tee handle you really can't over torque it....take them up as tight as you can until the shaft starts to twist."

I was trying to figure out how to write that....lol! Some T-handles are rigid and some are like metal loops. The loop kind is exactly what I've always had and flex like crazy when you get head bolts tight.



Kevin

Yeah those loop style are very wimpy. All mine are Bondus.....pretty rugged but when you get all they will take you're done and they start to twist a little. It's a ratio thing, you'll notice as the sizes go up so does the handle length. This gives you the leverage to create the approximate correct torque for that bolt size. A lot of tools are made that way by not giving you more leverage than the average person can develope. Harley Shovel Head head bolts are a case in point. Because the bolts heads are so close to the cyl there is no way to get a torque wrench in there. So they sell a 3/8 drive bar that is about 13" long with a 90 bend and square drive on either end. On one end the square drive is square to the the bar, the other is 45 degrees off to allow you to get on every bolt with a six point socket. At 13" the average guy can bring the bolts to torque but not any more. If you insist on trying you simple break the wrench. Good simple way to do it as long as you understand how the whole thing is set up. Generally it only take a wrench or two to figure that out.......LOL!!

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah those loop style are very wimpy. All mine are Bondus.....pretty rugged but when you get all they will take you're done and they start to twist a little. It's a ratio thing, you'll notice as the sizes go up so does the handle length. This gives you the leverage to create the approximate correct torque for that bolt size. A lot of tools are made that way by not giving you more leverage than the average person can develope. Harley Shovel Head head bolts are a case in point. Because the bolts heads are so close to the cyl there is no way to get a torque wrench in there. So they sell a 3/8 drive bar that is about 13" long with a 90 bend and square drive on either end. On one end the square drive is square to the the bar, the other is 45 degrees off to allow you to get on every bolt with a six point socket. At 13" the average guy can bring the bolts to torque but not any more. If you insist on trying you simple break the wrench. Good simple way to do it as long as you understand how the whole thing is set up. Generally it only take a wrench or two to figure that out.......LOL!!

Yep, lots of tool companies do that. If you flex and break the smaller T-Allens I have, you've gone too far. One of my favorite smaller bit companies, Chapman , designs their tool bits that way; you twist or break one of their bits, and you've gone beyond the design limit of the fastener itself.

My T-Allens are US made, the ones I posted. I really like that set!

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Yep, lots of tool companies do that. If you flex and break the smaller T-Allens I have, you've gone too far. One of my favorite smaller bit companies, Chapman , designs their tool bits that way; you twist or break one of their bits, and you've gone beyond the design limit of the fastener itself.

My T-Allens are US made, the ones I posted. I really like that set!

Kevin

Yeah your set looks better made than ones I seen before.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah your set looks better made than ones I seen before.

I forget the name., but it's an old US tool company.

Kevin

 

[numnutz6383]

Mine are Gearwrench, Taiwanese, I believe.


Anyways. I used the old sprocket and pin as you guys recommended.

So I pretty much have everything but the heated handle fixed (waiting on some terminal connectors), and the saw is buttoned up, with the exception of the flywheel since I'm not sure about the torque spec, I'm sure Robin or Kevin will have input, at least I hope.

Any other tips on first time startup once I get the flywheel torqued?

Obligatory sexy pose pics.

 

[Cantdog]

Mine are Gearwrench, Taiwanese, I believe.
View attachment 1084342

Anyways. I used the old sprocket and pin as you guys recommended.

So I pretty much have everything but the heated handle fixed (waiting on some terminal connectors), and the saw is buttoned up, with the exception of the flywheel since I'm not sure about the torque spec, I'm sure Robin or Kevin will have input, at least I hope.

Any other tips on first time startup once I get the flywheel torqued?

Obligatory sexy pose pics.
View attachment 1084344

View attachment 1084343

She's looking good. I'd tighten the flywheel by feel.......good and tight but not overdoing it using a standard 3/8 drive ratchet or box wrench. The clutch doesn't need to be really tight as it's left hand thread which is selftightening anyway.

But I know you like numbers to go by so here is a generalized metric torque chart. Just find out your thread diameter (M8, M10 etc.) and since these nuts are not hardened I would use the lightest torque chart. (8.8) Should get you close enough....again don't over do it....

https://fractory.com/metric-bolt-torque-chart/

 

[Real1shepherd]

Mine are Gearwrench, Taiwanese, I believe.
View attachment 1084342

Anyways. I used the old sprocket and pin as you guys recommended.

So I pretty much have everything but the heated handle fixed (waiting on some terminal connectors), and the saw is buttoned up, with the exception of the flywheel since I'm not sure about the torque spec, I'm sure Robin or Kevin will have input, at least I hope.

Any other tips on first time startup once I get the flywheel torqued?

Obligatory sexy pose pics.
View attachment 1084344

View attachment 1084343

Again, flywheel nut is something I do by feel. But 40-43 Nm(29.6-31.8 ft/lbs) should get you there. If the cylinder and rings are coated with saw mix oil, run it like you own it. I'm not a fan of 'break-in' on chainsaws. The factory reps used to tell us just to use them hard in the woods just like any normal day. Tons of 'experts' on the Internet have these elaborate break-in procedures for chainsaws. Basically, they made this s**t up and compete with each other over it. If it makes you feel better, do it I guess.

Shes' really purdy!

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Again, flywheel nut is something I do by feel. But 40-43 Nm(29.6-31.8 ft/lbs) should get you there. If the cylinder and rings are coated with saw mix oil, run it like you own it. I'm not a fan of 'break-in' on chainsaws. The factory reps used to tell us just to use them hard in the woods just like any normal day. Tons of 'experts' on the Internet have these elaborate break-in procedures for chainsaws. Basically, they made this s**t up and compete with each other over it. If it makes you feel better, do it I guess.

Shes' really purdy!

Kevin

I agree.....run it like you're gonna run it........ don't baby it....don't beat on it....but will add that after a couple heat cycles I check the cyl base bolts, carb and muffler bolts as well, especially when using new gaskets....things may or may not get lose with use.

 

[numnutz6383]

Well chute. It won't start. I have spark. I have fuel misting into the cylinder when I pull the cord with the plug out. But my accutron compression tester only registered 130 psi should be enough no?

 

[Cantdog]

Well chute. It won't start. I have spark. I have fuel misting into the cylinder when I pull the cord with the plug out. But my accutron compression tester only registered 130 psi should be enough no?

130 with how many pulls?

 

[numnutz6383]

130 with how many pulls?

Until the pressure stopped going up. Maybe 8 or 9?

 

[Cantdog]

Until the pressure stopped going up. Maybe 8 or 9?

Good.....That's a little low but should be enough to start. Did you lube the cyl walls any on assembly?

 

[numnutz6383]

Good.....That's a little low but should be enough to start. Did you lube the cyl walls any on assembly?

I did, just as you guys instructed to do. After posting earlier about it not starting I pressure tested and I couldn't get it to hold. I can't figure out where the leak is though, I soap sprayed all the gaskets and the clutch side seal and didn't see bubbles.

I'm planning on disassembling and reassembling to make sure I didn't make any mistakes along the way.

As an aside, I want to make sure I got the tank vent correct. I tried to recreate the vent tube exactly how it came out of the factory, sintered brass filter and all. I got the filter in the tube, but I have a question about a one way ball vent valve that is in the tank end of the tube.

I tried to reason my way to figure out which way air is supposed to be allowed to travel, and correct me if I'm wrong, air is supposed to be allowed to enter the tank through this vent tube, but not leave, yes?

 

[Cantdog]

Did you try to prime it by putting a small amount of mix straight in the cyl through the sparkplug hole? An eye dropper works good.

 

[numnutz6383]

Did you try to prime it by putting a small amount of mix straight in the cyl through the sparkplug hole? An eye dropper works good.

I have not. I will tomorrow when I get home from work.

 

[ErnieG]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2662666919...zCCk5zuRd6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Very interesting filter ....

 

[Cantdog]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2662666919...zCCk5zuRd6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Very interesting filter ....

Yep I saw that earlier......not a bad BIN for something like that on ebay these daze.....filter looks like it might have come from a concrete saw maybe......?