Jonsered Chainsaws

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I believe the Pirate Ship (ping) is something that one downloads on a computer.And yes,the rates are substantially lower than if you'd go to the post office or elsewhere.You'd need a certified scales for that,which I believe are sold on feebay,or are a part of the package deal.If someone is doing a lot of shipping,that'd be the way to go.There's another entity out there that's likje Pirate Ship,but I can't recall the name right now.
I made an account with Pirate Ship, it's free. You just need a certified scale, tape measure, a way to pay them and a way to print the shipping labels. They do the rest....giving you the rates etc. Looks easy enough....I'll post back after I ship something. They use UPS and USPS.

Kevin
 
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Looking for a chip guard for my 630 West Coast and can't seem to find the correct one .
Mine doesn't have the rivet holes for the guard in the cover ...do I have to drill holes .

What are my options here ?
Thanks
Ernie
Yeah what you are looking for is part # 504 12 46 06 but I don't find that listed anywhere now....only part # 501 83 09 01 which is the rivit on one. So unless you can find an NOS one somewhere I guess you're gonna have to drill your cover for the pop rivits.
 
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Yeah what you are looking for is part # 504 12 46 06 but I don't find that listed anywhere now....only part # 501 83 09 01 which is the rivit on one. So unless you can find an NOS one somewhere I guess you're gonna have to drill your cover for the pop rivits.
All you need is an old one for a pattern and you can easily make one from thick neoprene. Don't pay crazy prices for simple things you can make!

Kevin
 

Bob Hedgecutter

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All you need is an old one for a pattern and you can easily make one from thick neoprene. Don't pay crazy prices for simple things you can make!

Kevin

Doubled over tractor inner tube works and you get a LOT of chip deflectors out of one 38 inch tube! :laugh:
 

Cookie

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Howdy gents, picked up a basket case 630 recently. Turns out to be in great shape, needs a piston and handle bar. Cylinder cleaned up. Guess my question is, is this the correct cylinder for a super2? What piston do I need? It had a full skirt one in the box, the replacement meteor isn’t full skirt tho? Someone set me straight. Thx.
IMG_8862.jpeg IMG_8860.jpeg IMG_8858.jpeg IMG_8861.jpeg IMG_8854.jpeg IMG_8851.jpeg
 

gggGary

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I made an account with Pirate Ship, it's free. You just need a certified scale, tape measure, a way to pay them and a way to print the shipping labels. They do the rest....giving you the rates etc. Looks easy enough....I'll post back after I ship something. They use UPS and USPS.

Kevin
Plus one on Pirate ship. Been using them for years to ship motorcycle parts, big savings on bulky shipments. No downloads no BS just simple, fast, shipping labels.
They even parse out the ship to address into the correct fields, DUH!
 
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Doubled over tractor inner tube works and you get a LOT of chip deflectors out of one 38 inch tube! :laugh:
A piece of a used leather belt works great too!! Depending on your waistline you could get quite a few out of a belt as well.
 
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Howdy gents, picked up a basket case 630 recently. Turns out to be in great shape, needs a piston and handle bar. Cylinder cleaned up. Guess my question is, is this the correct cylinder for a super2? What piston do I need? It had a full skirt one in the box, the replacement meteor isn’t full skirt tho? Someone set me straight. Thx.
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Yes that is a Super II cyl......note the "D" shaped combustion chamber.....regular 630/630 Super cyls have round combustion chambers. The Meteor piston will work fine in place of the OEM one......can't see the thrust faces but if there is no damage to the OEM one I'd throw on a new Caber ring and run it. Since you're this far into it I would also advise a new set of crank seals and the 0-ring that seals the oil pump body to the case. That will make you a very nice saw.......the Super II was the best and most evolved 630....real nice project!!! Congrats!!
 

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Yes that is a Super II cyl......note the "D" shaped combustion chamber.....regular 630/630 Super cyls have round combustion chambers. The Meteor piston will work fine in place of the OEM one......can't see the thrust faces but if there is no damage to the OEM one I'd throw on a new Caber ring and run it. Since you're this far into it I would also advise a new set of crank seals and the 0-ring that seals the oil pump body to the case. That will make you a very nice saw.......the Super II was the best and most evolved 630....real nice project!!! Congrats!!
Great to hear the cylinder is original, thx. Piston does have a few deep strikes to it unfortunately. Seals are on order, the currant ones seem very soft and usable, every thing under the oil pump was in good shape aswell, no dead giveaway why the piston was damaged.
 
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Plus one on Pirate ship. Been using them for years to ship motorcycle parts, big savings on bulky shipments. No downloads no BS just simple, fast, shipping labels.
They even parse out the ship to address into the correct fields, DUH!
Great! Nice to finally hear from someone who used this service. I used to ship heavy vintage electronics around the country. It was always a 'let's make a deal' scenario with the shippers. I sent one heavy item for $45 back to NJ and the best rate the guy who fixed it got was $85 back to me two weeks later. That ain't right and illustrates a broken system.

And we all know that companies that use the carriers every day get great huge discounts, or they'd be outa business.

Kevin
 
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Great to hear the cylinder is original, thx. Piston does have a few deep strikes to it unfortunately. Seals are on order, the currant ones seem very soft and usable, every thing under the oil pump was in good shape aswell, no dead giveaway why the piston was damaged.
Make sure you replace the o-ring that seals the oil pump housing to the case when you replace the crank seal in the pump body. It is Husqvarna specific so make sure you get an OEM one......it's not a parts store size....

If you have time post up a pic or two of the old piston thrust faces and the scoring.
 

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Make sure you replace the o-ring that seals the oil pump housing to the case when you replace the crank seal in the pump body. It is Husqvarna specific so make sure you get an OEM one......it's not a parts store size....

If you have time post up a pic or two of the old piston thrust faces and the scoring.
Meant to grab a pic of it before i went to work here. Got a husky o-ring on the way. Pics to come. Thx for the advice. After a nice clutch cover for this saw if anyone has one around. Thx.
 
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Would you have one you can trace and send me so I can make one ?
Thanks
Ernie
I only have the 'Husky' 2100 to model from. If it's the same flap as other J'reds (numbers match)....someone should speak up and I might have that flap intact.

Complete J'reds chip flaps I have:
621
80/90
910
2094

I'd have to look at what is riveted and what is friction fit. Offhand, I know the Husky 2100 and the 910 are friction fit.


Kevin
 

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Here’s the piston that came with this thing. Couple deep grooves on the exhaust side. Someone’s cleaned it up well, ring is Mia.
IMG_8869.jpeg IMG_8868.jpeg
Whats the advantage/disadvantage of the the full skirt? I imagine a weight saving with the meteor piston.
 

Brad Krause

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Here’s the piston that came with this thing. Couple deep grooves on the exhaust side. Someone’s cleaned it up well, ring is Mia.
Since the cylinder cleaned up can he re-ring that piston and run it?

@Cookie : Is there any back-and-forth movement (slop) between the piston and cylinder, or between the piston and wrist pin?
 
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Since the cylinder cleaned up can he re-ring that piston and run it?

@Cookie : Is there any back-and-forth movement (slop) between the piston and cylinder, or between the piston and wrist pin?
Well......obviously new is better. It's hard to tell exactly how worn the piston is due to the PO cleaning it up and what and how he used to clean it up with. But it would certainly run with that piston and a new ring. Once I was sure there was no air/vac leaks I would be tempted to re-ring it with a new Caber and try it.

A full skirt piston helps stabilize the piston in the bore from left to right better but it also forces all fuel charge up into the top of the piston to be ejected out through the windows. This helps cool the piston crown and insures lubriciaton of the wristpin bearing. It also seals the charge in the case for a short period and helps build pressure and velocity on the down stroke as opposed to an open sided piston with windows which allows for unimpeeded flow. In use I suspect a slight performance increase to a full skirt piston but in reality that increase may well be countered/lost by the increased friction in the bore that more surface contact creates. I doubt in the cutting of a tree you could ever tell the difference between the two.
 
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Just looking at the piston, I would agree that it would run with a new Caber and most likely run very well. Kinda depends on your objectives; is it going to sit on a shelf when done, or will it be used every day?

Certainly do a compression test with the new Caber and a vac/pressure test on the saw once assembled. Replace the crank seals as a matter of course unless you know it's been done in the last five yrs.

Kevin
 
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