Jonsered Chainsaws

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Anyone try a starter pawl retaining clip that fits the flywheel part for a 621 but the clip isn't exactly like the original one here?
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Is anyone able to tell me the torque value for a 49sp clutch nut?

Happy Thanksgiving guys!
Not an actual number, but just good and snug using piston stop and a 3/8" ratchet or normal length box end wrench. No need to over do as being left hand thread it's self tightening.
 
Local was over and running some of my demo saws. Then he ran my just rebuilt 670 champ. Only on 2nd tank and set rich.
But his face was priceless. Tried to get this pic from the video from fb group.

He turned with a look of shock and disbelief on his face. Still pic dont do justice. :laughing:


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I have not....always used this style with the correct tool. An e-clip might work, but these clips are sturdier.
Did you lose or wreck one?


Kevin
No, the saw came from a bunch I picked and was missing the clip, the spring and pawl were on the flywheel magnet luckily.
You mentioned correct tool...I have snap ring pliers of course but other than a small screwdriver for this type I'm not sure what else would work. Do you have a pic you could post for the tool ?, thanks
 
No, the saw came from a bunch I picked and was missing the clip, the spring and pawl were on the flywheel magnet luckily.
You mentioned correct tool...I have snap ring pliers of course but other than a small screwdriver for this type I'm not sure what else would work. Do you have a pic you could post for the tool ?, thanks
I did and I even posted pics in this thread, in conversation with member Scott(bulletproof).
If you can't find the conversation, let me know and I'll re-post the pic.

Kevin
 
It was around post #8503 -8509. Which was great b/c the part no was there and my first google found me one at chainsawr dot com. I looked there the other day and couldn't find one, today I could. Lucky me, thanks.
My snap ring pliers ext/int work with a small flat screwdriver and a rag over top.
 
I'm changing the seals on my 2186 and never removed an oil pump .
How does it come off the crank shaft and anything I have to watch for ?
I'm also looking for some parts for this ...if anyone has some extra parts they'd be willing to sell pleas let me know .
Thanks very much !
Ernie
 

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I'm changing the seals on my 2186 and never removed an oil pump .
How does it come off the crank shaft and anything I have to watch for ?
Thanks very much !
Ernie
Unscrew the drive gear, pull your brake band, pull the 2 screws holding it in and voila! It should come right off!
 
Do I need a puller to get the clutch off an older series saw like the 621 or 70E? If not, how do I go about it. If I do need one, do they make a smaller one for saws? I have one for my snowmobile, but it is at little too big. what size thread is it in the clutch to screw bolts in? I need to change out my crank seals. If I found the correct thread, does a 15 x 30 x7 seal sound like the correct one for these saws. Thanks.
 
Do I need a puller to get the clutch off an older series saw like the 621 or 70E? If not, how do I go about it. If I do need one, do they make a smaller one for saws? I have one for my snowmobile, but it is at little too big. what size thread is it in the clutch to screw bolts in? I need to change out my crank seals. If I found the correct thread, does a 15 x 30 x7 seal sound like the correct one for these saws. Thanks.
Yes, you'll need a small puller for the flywheel. You should be able to unscrew the clutch...left hand threads.

Yes, that's the correct seal. Actually the OE is 6mm thick, but 7mm works fine.

I jury rigged a steering wheel puller for flywheels that worked for decades. Then a member here offered some freshly machined ones and I got one of those. Excellent machine work and quite the little puller!

If you strip out one of the little puller holes, don't sweat it. Tap to the next size for a bigger bolt. The OE puller hole is puny. However, I've never stripped the next tapped metric size hole.

Oh and don't send your puller bolts down any deeper than the thickness of the flywheel. If you do, you can damage some of the points plate. Ask me how I know.......

Kevin
 
Yes, you'll need a small puller for the flywheel. You should be able to unscrew the clutch...left hand threads.

Yes, that's the correct seal. Actually the OE is 6mm thick, but 7mm works fine.

I jury rigged a steering wheel puller for flywheels that worked for decades. Then a member here offered some freshly machined ones and I got one of those. Excellent machine work and quite the little puller!

If you strip out one of the little puller holes, don't sweat it. Tap to the next size for a bigger bolt. The OE puller hole is puny. However, I've never stripped the next tapped metric size hole.

Oh and don't send your puller bolts down any deeper than the thickness of the flywheel. If you do, you can damage some of the points plate. Ask me how I know.......

Kevin
All good advice except the clutch doesn't unscrew on the 621 or 70E......tapered crankshaft shaft with a keyway same as the 80/90, 52/52E/49sp etc. Definately pay close attention o the depth of your puller screws as Kevin warned....take a good strain on the three bolts and give the end of the crankshaft a good sharp whack...generally pop right off. And when I say the end of the crank I mean either with the nut screwed back on just a whisker shy of flush or if you are usine a centerbolt puller a whack on the centedbolt.
 
All good advice except the clutch doesn't unscrew on the 621 or 70E......tapered crankshaft shaft with a keyway same as the 80/90, 52/52E/49sp etc. Definately pay close attention o the depth of your puller screws as Kevin warned....take a good strain on the three bolts and give the end of the crankshaft a good sharp whack...generally pop right off. And when I say the end of the crank I mean either with the nut screwed back on just a whisker shy of flush or if you are usine a centerbolt puller a whack on the centedbolt.

I got the fly wheel off pretty easily by shocking the end of the crank. I can not get the clutch off what is the thread pitch of the holes in the clutch. They appear to be 5 mm but my 5mm by .8 bolts won’t start in them. It’s a 70E I’m working on.


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All good advice except the clutch doesn't unscrew on the 621 or 70E......tapered crankshaft shaft with a keyway same as the 80/90, 52/52E/49sp etc. Definately pay close attention o the depth of your puller screws as Kevin warned....take a good strain on the three bolts and give the end of the crankshaft a good sharp whack...generally pop right off. And when I say the end of the crank I mean either with the nut screwed back on just a whisker shy of flush or if you are usine a centerbolt puller a whack on the centedbolt.
That's correct! Sorry about that....thinking about my Husky clutch.
Agree....put a good strain on your puller and pop it with a rawhide/plastic/wood mallet. Should pop. If not, leave it for a few hrs and try again....she'll let go.

I can't remember the thread pitch of the puller holes.....

Kevin
 
Changing the seals on my 2186 and after removing the oil pump it seems mine is a seal and bearing in one ..would this be correct?
Here is a pic of the saw and also a pic of the seal ...
Thanks
Ernie
 

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Not familiar with that model.....but the bearing has a dust/dirt seal between the inner race and the outer. In that install, I see no place for the usual seal itself. Is there another assembly part that goes over that which will accept a seal?

Husky has a hokey system like that where they have the crank seal part on the oiler housing;inner seal and outer O-ring.

Kevin
 

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