Jonsered Chainsaws

[numnutz6383]

Smaller the better on steering wheel pullers. There was a member that came in here once who was a machinist and offered to make pullers for J'reds. They were real beauties and so I was able to abandon the steering wheel puller.

You'll have to buy your own puller bolts and most likely stack fender washers under the heads to make them work on the puller's bar shape configuration. Sometimes a puller hole will strip out on your flywheel....I just tap to the next metric size and upsize the metric puller bolt....not rocket science. Therefore, inside the puller bag I have two sizes of puller bolts all ready with attendant fender washer stacks. Just make sure when you screw your puller bolts in, that you only go the thickness of the flywheel. Anymore and you can easily damage modules/points underneath. ...

Never had an issue with the keys.....that I remember. The Bosch WS 7F was THE standard for Husky/Jonsereds for a very long time(I miss-typed earlier, but corrected it).

Kevin

I think you're referring to member @Goinwheelin, I've reached out to him and he may be able to help me with one.

Oh in that case, you should know, the WS7F is still available, Bosch p/n7545. I ordered some of those too, from my local NAPA. Variety is the spice of life they say lol.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I think you're referring to member @Goinwheelin, I've reached out to him and he may be able to help me with one.

Oh in that case, you should know, the WS7F is still available, Bosch p/n7545. I ordered some of those too, from my local NAPA. Variety is the spice of life they say lol.

LOL....don't be loyal to Bosch.....they're not German-made anymore I believe....that's why I went with the NOS lot that said 'Made in Germany'. Like everything else, probably Chinese. Spark plugs made in Japan are generally great.

Yes, that's Aaron....puller was fantastic. No reason to jury rig with a steering wheel puller when you can get that.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I found the original type Bosch spark plugs in Lithuania; WSR 8F. I asked the seller if they were Chinese made and no comment so far.......could be a language thing, but he's selling on US eBay.

*Update: Got a reply finally...."Made in India" and he said Old Stock, proud of it. Said now they are made "Who knows where". Yeah well, not feeling the love for "Made in India" either.

I'm sorry....gotta laugh at NOS being 'Made in India'.....

Kevin

 

[ErnieG]

Anyone know what this saw is ?

 

[Cantdog]

Pretty blurry but I believe it's the unexciting 510SP But with that chunky clutch cover probably an equally exciting 450.

 

[numnutz6383]

I think I found the listing you're talking about. When I asked where they're made, seller replied with "Made in India".

Back to the regularly scheduled programming.

I got the flywheel off my 451. Pretty dirty so threw it in my ultrasonic. When I took it out I noticed some green discoloration on the back and then felt with my finger. It's some sort of thin plastic liner, looks like it covered the back and inside edge of wheel, but now it's disintegrated.



What was the plastic liner on the flywheel and was it important?

Onto the seals.
Looks like I got lucky and the ones I ordered should be the correct ones, the shaft diameter of 12 mm matches the ID of the seal, and the OD of the replacement seals matches the OD of the ones currently in place (20mm).

@Cantdog, to remove them, to confirm what you do, use punch to break adhesion and lift opposite edge (yellow arrow), while taking care not to scratch the case, then get under metal lip (white arrow) and remove.

Would a 90 degree pick be sufficient or is there a lot of force necessary to lift them?

Also, @Cantdog, if you recall there was a question regarding the new cylinder and possible having to tap holes so I could mount the older revision coil. Good news, the newer revision cylinder casting was tapped already, so I won't have to fiddle with a tap and die.

 

[ErnieG]

Pretty blurry but I believe it's the unexciting 510SP But with that chunky clutch cover probably an equally exciting 450.

That clutch cover was what threw me off .
Ernie

 

[Real1shepherd]

I think I found the listing you're talking about. When I asked where they're made, seller replied with "Made in India".

Back to the regularly scheduled programming.

I got the flywheel off my 451. Pretty dirty so threw it in my ultrasonic. When I took it out I noticed some green discoloration on the back and then felt with my finger. It's some sort of thin plastic liner, looks like it covered the back and inside edge of wheel, but now it's disintegrated.

View attachment 1037930

What was the plastic liner on the flywheel and was it important?

Onto the seals.
Looks like I got lucky and the ones I ordered should be the correct ones, the shaft diameter of 12 mm matches the ID of the seal, and the OD of the replacement seals matches the OD of the ones currently in place (20mm).

@Cantdog, to remove them, to confirm what you do, use punch to break adhesion and lift opposite edge (yellow arrow), while taking care not to scratch the case, then get under metal lip (white arrow) and remove.

Would a 90 degree pick be sufficient or is there a lot of force necessary to lift them?

Also, @Cantdog, if you recall there was a question regarding the new cylinder and possible having to tap holes so I could mount the older revision coil. Good news, the newer revision cylinder casting was tapped already, so I won't have to fiddle with a tap and die.

View attachment 1037935

Not speaking for Robin but, punching out the seals by going to one side is OK, but you can also force some sheet metal screws into the metal part of the seal and pull up on those....if you don't have a puller. I can post a pic of the broken puller I used to use that lasted through quite a few seals before it gave out, if you want.....very easy and intuitive to use. What I read is that most guys use the screw method.

Yeah, I wouldn't have put the flywheel in the USC....there's a bond in there for those magnets.....I wouldn't screw around with that and a USC that might clean too deep. Better to just use brake cleaner on that as a surface spray. What you're seeing as a coating was probably to keep the magnets from rusting. Magnetic pull force would go easily through that.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

The other end that's broken off was perfect for smaller seals. The end remaining is not.

 

[Lozen]

I've never seen a 510SP or 450. I've had some McCulloch 610's (McBricks) that are pretty ugly.

 

[numnutz6383]

Not speaking for Robin but, punching out the seals by going to one side is OK, but you can also force some sheet metal screws into the metal part of the seal and pull up on those....if you don't have a puller. I can post a pic of the broken puller I used to use that lasted through quite a few seals before it gave out, if you want.....very easy and intuitive to use. What I read is that most guys use the screw method.

Yeah, I wouldn't have put the flywheel in the USC....there's a bond in there for those magnets.....I wouldn't screw around with that and a USC that might clean too deep. Better to just use brake cleaner on that as a surface spray. What you're seeing as a coating was probably to keep the magnets from rusting. Magnetic pull force would go easily through that.

Kevin

So, what you're saying is that I screwed the pooch and need a new flywheel?

I also probably screwed myself with the sprocket, needle bearing and bushing, which I cleaned in the USC and placed in a drying bin and of course forgot about them until just now, and they rusted.

 

[Real1shepherd]

LOL....dunno, would have to see them in person, but usually to avoid rust on bearings at all costs(try some Evaporust if you have it). Your flywheel is probably OK....try to find where the magnets are by holding a piece of metal to the outside of the flywheel......looks very carefully in that area for the bond....see if it's intact to your best estimation.

The bushing can usually be cleaned/burnished again OK. Evaporust is gentle to surfaces but removes rust great. Magnetic pull goes through rust too, so there's a lot of give & take there if the magnets are still securely in place.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I've never seen a 510SP or 450. I've had some McCulloch 610's (McBricks) that are pretty ugly.

The 510 and some others were the blackwater Jonsered saws put out by Electrolux Group AB.....not usually well thought of. Hoping that most wound up dead in a landfill somewhere, but they do pop up from time to time. Someone that's staunchly defending them has never used the other more venerable Jonsered(s) saws.

They even had one that was a mock 'Silver top'.....what a POS.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

I think I found the listing you're talking about. When I asked where they're made, seller replied with "Made in India".

Back to the regularly scheduled programming.

I got the flywheel off my 451. Pretty dirty so threw it in my ultrasonic. When I took it out I noticed some green discoloration on the back and then felt with my finger. It's some sort of thin plastic liner, looks like it covered the back and inside edge of wheel, but now it's disintegrated.

View attachment 1037930

What was the plastic liner on the flywheel and was it important?

Onto the seals.
Looks like I got lucky and the ones I ordered should be the correct ones, the shaft diameter of 12 mm matches the ID of the seal, and the OD of the replacement seals matches the OD of the ones currently in place (20mm).

@Cantdog, to remove them, to confirm what you do, use punch to break adhesion and lift opposite edge (yellow arrow), while taking care not to scratch the case, then get under metal lip (white arrow) and remove.

Would a 90 degree pick be sufficient or is there a lot of force necessary to lift them?

Also, @Cantdog, if you recall there was a question regarding the new cylinder and possible having to tap holes so I could mount the older revision coil. Good news, the newer revision cylinder casting was tapped already, so I won't have to fiddle with a tap and die.

View attachment 1037935

So.....again the idea of tapping one side down a bit is to break the seal to the case it has developed over the years, so that you are only pulling the seal and not working against the adheasion at the same time. I use a very simple tool to get these seals out. After breaking the seal with a gentle tap with a punch I insert the small point of the tool in between the seal lip and the crankshaft at the highest point of the seal and by angling the screwdriver so the tip gets under the the metal part of the seal (yellow arrow) and simply lever the seal out against the case, working it around until it is out.
Personally I don't like the screw method.....on most seals there is not enough metal to have a good enough grip plus there is always the chance you may damage the case where the seal must reinstall. For me the way I described is the best......but of course that just my opinion and what works for me........I always gravitate to the simplest process I can come up with....there are many more complictaed methods out there.....in the end removing the seal is what the job is so I prefer to not over complicte it.

 

[Cantdog]

The 510 and some others were the blackwater Jonsered saws put out by Electrolux Group AB.....not usually well thought of. Hoping that most wound up dead in a landfill somewhere, but they do pop up from time to time. Someone that's staunchly defending them has never used the other more venerable Jonsered(s) saws.

They even had one that was a mock 'Silver top'.....what a POS.

Kevin

Yep.......the 535 "Classic".......pffft....

 

[Real1shepherd]

So.....again the idea of tapping one side down a bit is to break the seal to the case it has developed over the years, so that you are only pulling the seal and not working against the adheasion at the same time. I use a very simple tool to get these seals out. After breaking the seal with a gentle tap with a punch I insert the small point of the tool in between the seal lip and the crankshaft at the highest point of the seal and by angling the screwdriver so the tip gets under the the metal part of the seal (yellow arrow) and simply lever the seal out against the case, working it around until it is out.
Personally I don't like the screw method.....on most seals there is not enough metal to have a good enough grip plus there is always the chance you may damage the case where the seal must reinstall. For me the way I described is the best......but of course that just my opinion and what works for me........I always gravitate to the simplest process I can come up with....there are many more complictaed methods out there.....in the end removing the seal is what the job is so I prefer to not over complicte it.

View attachment 1038028

That's just a home-grown variation of the tool I pictured....although stronger....lol! I like that tool I pictured, just disappointed in the steel. I may try to harden the next one with heat.

I don't like the screw method either, just reporting what a LOT of guys say they like.

Kevin

 

[numnutz6383]

LOL....dunno, would have to see them in person, but usually to avoid rust on bearings at all costs(try some Evaporust if you have it). Your flywheel is probably OK....try to find where the magnets are by holding a piece of metal to the outside of the flywheel......looks very carefully in that area for the bond....see if it's intact to your best estimation.

The bushing can usually be cleaned/burnished again OK. Evaporust is gentle to surfaces but removes rust great. Magnetic pull goes through rust too, so there's a lot of give & take there if the magnets are still securely in place.

Kevin

Here is what I see. Magnets on outside edge of the wheel (red), ignition related I'm guessing, as well as inside edge (yellow), which I'm guessing are for the heated handle stator. Anyways, the outside magnets don't look like they've ever had any bonding material, the inside ones..that's a different story. There used to be bonding material there before some dummy put the wheel in an USC with degreaser. Magnets themselves appear to be ok. Anything I can put on them or need to replace the now-missing bonding?

 

[Real1shepherd]

Here is what I see. Magnets on outside edge of the wheel (red), ignition related I'm guessing, as well as inside edge (yellow), which I'm guessing are for the heated handle stator. Anyways, the outside magnets don't look like they've ever had any bonding material, the inside ones..that's a different story. There used to be bonding material there before some dummy put the wheel in an USC with degreaser. Magnets themselves appear to be ok. Anything I can put on them or need to replace the now-missing bonding?


View attachment 1038055
View attachment 1038056

I dunno....I'd only be concerned with the outside magnets....the inside magnets for the heated handles is a luxury I've never had.....LOL!

For whatever reason, I can't enlarge your pics.....probably something on my end.

Fixed that.....still don't know what to tell ya. There's gotta be bonding underneath those inside mags(same with the outside mags)....maybe you're OK?

Kevin

 

[JoeMay]

I have used this tool from Lisle successfully for several years now to pull seals from a wide variety of saws. Better auto parts stores should carry them.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I have used this tool from Lisle successfully for several years now to pull seals from a wide variety of saws. Better auto parts stores should carry them.

I have that tool. I find it weird in its orientation.....not really gotten onto it yet. I bought that to replace the broken seal puller I pictured. Both cost about the same money. Traditionally, Lisle tools are good like S&K.

Kevin