Jonsered Chainsaws

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Not likely......should start with a leaky seal but not run or tune well.....my guess is carburation....those carbs with the plastic lowers have been known to be problematic.

Agreed....saw will usually run but be untunable with a leaky crank seal.

Kevin
It's been a while, so you guys may not recall, but I replaced the plastic lower on my original carb with a metal one. I also picked up another full carb that I rebuilt, so I have a spare. Once I get this seal placed sounds like I'll have to troubleshoot the carb then.
 
Yea it's coming across country to PA ..

Ernie
Great.....good for you!!!! Not a bad price. AF is poor but the rest looks to be in great shape. Those West Coast 630's had a thinner than stock cyl base gasket and the largest carb. I've had one for the last 10 years or so, also in super condition.
Interesting tale......it arrived here from Utah.....looked great started second pull....sweet!! I geared up and went down into the woodlot to try it out. Made 3-4 cuts then it started running funny so, since it was new to me back to the shop we went. After trouble shooting I discovered one of the throttle plate screws was all but completely unthreaded and ready to fly into the engine!!!!! That was a very close call!! Damn good thing I decided to look into the problem as soon as it appeared instead of trying to "rev the skip out of it"
 
Great.....good for you!!!! Not a bad price. AF is poor but the rest looks to be in great shape. Those West Coast 630's had a thinner than stock cyl base gasket and the largest carb. I've had one for the last 10 years or so, also in super condition.
Interesting tale......it arrived here from Utah.....looked great started second pull....sweet!! I geared up and went down into the woodlot to try it out. Made 3-4 cuts then it started running funny so, since it was new to me back to the shop we went. After trouble shooting I discovered one of the throttle plate screws was all but completely unthreaded and ready to fly into the engine!!!!! That was a very close call!! Damn good thing I decided to look into the problem as soon as it appeared instead of trying to "rev the skip out of it"
Yea im hoping the AF straightens out ...seller says it has a scored PC so if that's the case it will need some attention..if I'm lucky it's just a clean up on the cylinder and a new piston .


Ernie
 
Yea im hoping the AF straightens out ...seller says it has a scored PC so if that's the case it will need some attention..if I'm lucky it's just a clean up on the cylinder and a new piston .


Ernie
Shoot... that's to bad.......but you'll get to know your saw. I'd put in new crank seals and 0-rings too just out of course to make sure you fix why it failed in the first place. Good luck...well worth your time and effort...great saws.
 
Shoot... that's to bad.......but you'll get to know your saw. I'd put in new crank seals and 0-rings too just out of course to make sure you fix why it failed in the first place. Good luck...well worth your time and effort...great saws.
Yea it is ....I plan a full rebuild with all new seals and o-rings yep 👍
I'm hoping the seller is wrong because I asked for pictures of the PC but he said he didn't have any so maybe he was guessing ...
Yours is very nice also !

Ernie
 
Ya never know! Back in the day on eBay when you could buy saws very reasonably....especially Jonsereds, I bought a 90 from Arkansas for dirt.

Was so filthy I was discouraged and left it in its shipping box for over a yr. After I got the gas tank cleaned with lacquer thinner and BB's, the saw cleaned up and turned out to be low hr. Most paint left except for my 2094. One bar stud was stripped in the case, but that's about it. Best running and easiest starting Jonsereds I own to this day. Spark is so good on it that when it's warm, I only need to pull the recoil about halfway out.

Other than the stipped bar stud hole, I think the PO just let the gas go bad inside the tank and couldn't start it........who knows, maybe a relative died or gave him the saw, or maybe he got it for dirt. That's why these days if at all possible, I like a good provenance story to go with the item.

Kevin
 
Hi folks. I haven’t been around as much as I’d like to lately. Some catching up to do.

I had a nice fellow pass along his 520 to me. No charge, as he wanted it to live again. Put away running about 10 years ago. I Haven’t brought any saws home in quite awhile and have be missing doing so. Appears mostly complete after a 10 minute once over. I gather they are not a shining effort in the Jonsereds stable. Will sit for a 2-3 weeks before I look into getting it running. Watched a 5 minute clip on someone replacing the oil line that led to pulling the entire saw apart. That was enough. What were they thinking with this design?

IMG_0925.jpegIMG_0926.jpegIMG_0927.jpeg
 
So I finally got around to replacing that leaky seal on my 451EV. Attempt number 1 consisted of driving the seal past the gouges in the case mating areas. Unfortunately that resulted in even worse leaking. So I pulled that seal and used the Dichtomatik seal I had (first attempt I used the seal with some sort of blue sealant on its mating edge), and I thought I'd try not driving it as far, I actually left a little edge sticking above the case mating area. The seal held...BUT when I sprayed the area down, some of it got into a small recessed spot in the case next to the crankshaft and lo and behold I saw bubbles there.


View attachment VID20230606180858.mp4

How would you go about sealing this, fill the recessed area with JB Weld?
 
Well that's poor.......yes......muck it all out with a dremel and degrease then fill it with JB Weld.....only other option is a new case half.....
Can you elaborate on "muck it all out", do you mean remove the paint? Also, any particular JB Weld?

I'm curious, how does a magnesium case spring a pinhole leak, especially in an area that can't really incur any damage?
 
Can you elaborate on "muck it all out", do you mean remove the paint? Also, any particular JB Weld?

I'm curious, how does a magnesium case spring a pinhole leak, especially in an area that can't really incur any damage?

Yes.......grind out the offending area......remove all paint and or corrosion then use a degreaser to clean the area. Then seal with JB Weld epoxy.

No idea to your last question......thin spot in the casting perhaps....or metsal fatigue.......not a common problem on ay of these saws...
 
Can you elaborate on "muck it all out", do you mean remove the paint? Also, any particular JB Weld?

I'm curious, how does a magnesium case spring a pinhole leak, especially in an area that can't really incur any damage?
Flaw in the casting....Jonsered/Husky had this issue over the yrs, although nothing dramatic. I suspect the other marques did as well. Can't expect all the castings to be perfect.

I would agree to degrease it, BUT....I would put heat to it and degrease it at least three times. You're trying to 'sweat'(heat cycle) the oil out. Magnesium is like a sponge. Use a Dremel to dig the paint out, yes. There are better epoxies out there than JB Weld, but they're in tin containers and very expensive industrial epoxy. Most folks get by with JB Weld.....kinda like using WD-40 as a 'great' lubricant and rust penetrant.;)

Kevin
 
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