Jonsered CS2159/Husqvarna 359 - Walbro 199A carb confusement

[Chevboy0167]

^^^^^^^ Yeppers. 4mm variety I believe....

 

[MartDalb]

Out of curiosity I went out to the shop and checked the 359 and it definitely has Allen bolts holding the cylinder on. My memory I guess isn't completely shot..

Og i indeed used a 4mm allen, but My t25 worked as well, probably just enough to loosen and tighten, but not in the long run for fastening/loosening. But the t25 tamperproof is my best shot at getting that last bolt out atm.

Never seen a tamperproof cylinder bolt myself either...

 

[MartDalb]

Tested a holed T25 bit, didnt fit into it, the metal pin in the middle is wider than the hole in the T25. So... I either have to drill out the metal pin, find a holed allen key, or make my own T25 hole wider with a drill.

Sigh....


But seeing as noone here has seen that sorta bolt on a 2159/353, perhaps that screw is larger than a T25. I can't tell since i cant reach down etc.

Guess it is time to buy a holed key screwdriver set.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Tested a holed T25 bit, didnt fit into it, the metal pin in the middle is wider than the hole in the T25. So... I either have to drill out the metal pin, find a holed allen key, or make my own T25 hole wider with a drill.

Sigh....


But seeing as noone here has seen that sorta bolt on a 2159/353, perhaps that screw is larger than a T25. I can't tell since i cant reach down etc.

Guess it is time to buy a holed key screwdriver set.

Buy a whole set of hex, or torx? That you might never use again?
If cylinder bolts are factory tight- the drilled end drivers snap with the torque required to break the seal of bolts without pins- done so several times with T27 cylinder bolts and TENG tamperproof T handle drivers.
I'd be trying to find someone that might have the tool you can borrow. Or take the saw to the hardware store to confirm the one tool you need to buy fits the problem bolt.
Another way around it- if the bolt is not real tight, is to cut a slot from point to point on a 4mm hex with a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder or dremel type tool- the slot providing the area for the pin to go into rather than a hole as allen wrenches are VERY hard to drill holes in.

 

[MartDalb]

Buy a whole set of hex, or torx? That you might never use again?
If cylinder bolts are factory tight- the drilled end drivers snap with the torque required to break the seal of bolts without pins- done so several times with T27 cylinder bolts and TENG tamperproof T handle drivers.
I'd be trying to find someone that might have the tool you can borrow. Or take the saw to the hardware store to confirm the one tool you need to buy fits the problem bolt.
Another way around it- if the bolt is not real tight, is to cut a slot from point to point on a 4mm hex with a thin cutting disc on an angle grinder or dremel type tool- the slot providing the area for the pin to go into rather than a hole as allen wrenches are VERY hard to drill holes in.

Honestly, at this point, with how many saws I get around to do each year, and more and more it seems, every year. I think buying those few bits is my best choice.

This should have the required "safety" bit tools - price is about 12$
Picture, link didn't work.



Yeah, it's probable going to be used once or twice a year but, better than making some stupid mistake on a cylinder bolt, I aint very handy with a grinder


This forum saves me each and every time there's an issue, and there often is!

Thanks everyone for helping out, I will make sure to post update once this set of bits arrives and I can continue my work.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Honestly, at this point, with how many saws I get around to do each year, and more and more it seems, every year. I think buying those few bits is my best choice.

This should have the required "safety" bit tools - price is about 12$
Picture, link didn't work.



Yeah, it's probable going to be used once or twice a year but, better than making some stupid mistake on a cylinder bolt, I aint very handy with a grinder


This forum saves me each and every time there's an issue, and there often is!

Thanks everyone for helping out, I will make sure to post update once this set of bits arrives and I can continue my work.

You sure they will be long enough to reach down through the access hole of the cylinder and reach the bolt head?

 

[MartDalb]

You sure they will be long enough to reach down through the access hole of the cylinder and reach the bolt head?

Yeah, I checked, and the holes in the cylinder are actually quite large, compared to many others I've been around, it will easily fit an extension of any kind.
These bits are 75mm long btw.

Nice of you to ask though, not the first time I have bought stuff that weren't long enough or didn't work when I finally got it.

 

[MartDalb]

Update -
First off, can someone help me where to cut off the 2nd part shown on the "Insulation wall" picture?
@J D posted it - I am not sure how much of that part needs to come off.

See picture.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Update -
First off, can someone help me where to cut off the 2nd part shown on the "Insulation wall" picture?
@J D posted it - I am not sure how much of that part needs to come off.

See picture.

You remove the parts shaded grey- the tabs and raised sections, to turn the collar into a flat cylinder that the clamp band fits without interference around the circumference.

 

[MartDalb]

And update - to all of you who said, it is allen key 4mm all the way round.
It was.

And with danger of looking like an idiot - this is the story.

I finally got the holed tools - tried each one of them, didn't fit.
Decided to try and clean up the hole around the "security tab" - it was clearly full of dirt.
I did get some out, sprayed brake cleaner to see if I could loosen the dirt - it did somewhat.

Poked the tap again with a very small, pointy screwdriver, and thought I saw it move..... .
Of course I could not get it out from the bolt though, so..last resort was a full pressurized air -and look what flew out.
I have no clue what this is, where it is from, or why it was there. But it was good and well stuck inside the bolt hole, and only came out with full pressured air strait to it.

 

[MartDalb]

You remove the parts shaded grey- the tabs and raised sections, to turn the collar into a flat cylinder that the clamp band fits without interference around the circumference.

So I cut where my knife is on picture? and remove the entire part?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

So I cut where my knife is on picture? and remove the entire part?

Remove everything that is raised above what would form an even wall cylinder.
If you were looking at it end on, it should look like the end view of a PVC pipe- just cylindrical with no raised bits.
You can trim with a knife, clean up with a file and or sandpaper if you want- but you just want a tube that the inside of the band can sit on with nothing left to foul the band.

The remains you found in the hex bolt will be the snapped off end of somebodys tamperproof 4mm hex tool- the ends of those are brittle if used on non tamperproof fittings torqued in as cylinder bolts- they snap off- as eluded to in my story about Teng T27 ones I have busted off here.

 

[MartDalb]

Remove everything that is raised above what would form an even wall cylinder.
If you were looking at it end on, it should look like the end view of a PVC pipe- just cylindrical with no raised bits.
You can trim with a knife, clean up with a file and or sandpaper if you want- but you just want a tube that the inside of the band can sit on with nothing left to foul the band.

The remains you found in the hex bolt will be the snapped off end of somebodys tamperproof 4mm hex tool- the ends of those are brittle if used on non tamperproof fittings torqued in as cylinder bolts- they snap off- as eluded to in my story about Teng T27 ones I have busted off here.

That actually makes perfect sense, the snapped off part.


Help me place my knife correctly here please, I'm still not sure...
Cut along knife - or red line?
Along knife will leave some more space between the two meeting edges, not forming a round circle without pressure.

 

[MartDalb]

That actually makes perfect sense, the snapped off part.


Help me place my knife correctly here please, I'm still not sure...
Cut along knife - or red line?
Along knife will leave some more space between the two meeting edges, not forming a round circle without pressure.

Ok now that I read the instruction, it does clearly show a large "gab" on the 2nd picture with the Arrow.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

That actually makes perfect sense, the snapped off part.


Help me place my knife correctly here please, I'm still not sure...
Cut along knife - or red line?
Along knife will leave some more space between the two meeting edges, not forming a round circle without pressure.

Okay, I get what you mean with the missing section and the unsupported bit that will be left as the band bridges the missing section.
Hard to explain in text, but I close the plastic band, clip it shut (off the cylinder) and mark or get a visual for where the two ends meet and allow a wee bit more for air gap once the band is tight, then I trim all the raised bits off to form a cylinder- with the band fitted and tight, it gets good bearing around 95%ish of the cylinder thats left and there is a small gap for expansion and contraction.
Others might trim behind the "right angle" projection that would form the "handle" to close the original clip and it might work just fine- I have not done one that way to find out.

 

[huskihl]

Ok now that I read the instruction, it does clearly show a large "gab" on the 2nd picture with the Arrow.

Break off whatever is necessary to get your clamp around it. A 395 clamp will go around everything but the tabs. A 372 clamp needs all the plastic removed from the clamp area

 

[MartDalb]

Done, does this look workable?
I only cut the "tap" sticking upwards on the nr 2. part of the picture. Not the entire thing.

I don't have the clamp yet, it has been ordered though, the stihl ones were too small.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Done, does this look workable?
I only cut the "tap" sticking upwards on the nr 2. part of the picture. Not the entire thing.

I don't have the clamp yet, it has been ordered though, the stihl ones were too small.

Looks good.
Stihl clamps will work- just have to have the correct sized one- the 066/660 one works- other clamps for smaller saws may not.

 

[MartDalb]

Looks good.
Stihl clamps will work- just have to have the correct sized one- the 066/660 one works- other clamps for smaller saws may not.

Ah yes, sorry. My Stihl ms260,026 and the likes, were too small.
But a clamp is cheapo, so np.

I opted for the good version as was recommended in this thread.
Part nr. 588 77 55-02

Thanks a lot for the assistance here!

 

[J D]

That'll work.
The little sanding drum attachment on a Dremel works well to round everything off