Just Purchased New Stihl MS462C 25" Light - Anything to consider before we get going?

[Captainlarry]

Hey Guys,
After cutting firewood for 16 years with a 028WB on permanent loan from my father-in-law I finally bought a saw of "my own". Let's not get bogged down in discussion on whether this was a good idea. That ship has already sailed. Ha! First, I wanted something a bit bigger than my tired 18" saw. Then I was paid a nice chunk of cash (healthy down payment) for the first time ever to haul away firewood. What a treat! Finally I realized how many decades my young sons will have with this machine. With all that I talked myself out of $1200.
So before I get started, anything I need to know that my brief visit to James River did not convey?
Break-in?
Unusual features?
Essential mods?
Pitfalls?
I bought the $12 worth of synthetic fuel oil to double my warrantee. I know the saw will run without problems (if it runs at all. Ha!) for the next two years, but it was not hard to buy their 6 gallons worth of fuel oil.
What about the way the saw tips forward onto the long bar when you set it down. Is there a good remedy for this?
Anything I'm not thinking of?

Below, the last time she sees the living room, I suspect.

 

[Stihlbandit881]

The ms462 is a great saw, one of my favorites. If you get bigger dawgs for it that will keep it propped up. I would get an aftermarket muffler cover to let the saw breathe a bit better, I like the Egan straight shot. My 462 has been trouble free for the year I've had it, it's my go to saw for firewood.

 

[Stihl99]

Very nice machine congrats, I recommend only use 93 octane gas with your HP Ultra and a set of dual spikes for it.
Do not change out your muffle cover, leave your saw just like it is for the 2 years of your warranty.

 

[PV Hiker]

Break-in?
Unusual features?

Congratulations on your fine purchase!!!
I can speak of a few thoughts.
For your first run, warm it up and bury it in wood to set the rings. next tanks of fuel run it in wood keeping a load on it. Get some heat cycles.

Warm the saw up before cutting about 15 to 30 seconds, with bare hand can feel the air from the cylinder on the clutch side.
After cutting let it idle for the same amount of time, this will help it when you restart better.
Don't let it run out of fuel while cutting, M-Tronics don't like that as it will tend to vapor lock ,boil off what fuel was left.

Other than that it is a chainsaw, use it as what it is made for.

 

[cookies]

get quality sawyering pants or chaps, send it off for porting when that job is completed, a combi can will keep your fuel tank cleaner with less spills, wedges for ease of cutting larger rounds without pinched bars. Keep the smaller saw for smaller stuff...your back will thank you, Stihl synthetic oil is ok but it produces excessive carbon. some folks like adding a bottom plate on their saws to protect it. Enjoy it

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

As far as the saw goes, don't do anything to it. And don't waste your money on one of those Egan or WCS muffler covers they're obnoxiously loud and they look like ****. Just run the saw as it is. Get some chaps, helmet with some kind of face protection, steel toe boots, and gloves. It's all fun and games until you catch a spinning chain to the leg or face. Another thing I'll recommend is running 40:1 instead of 50:1 mix fuel. A little extra oil will go a long way to help protect your investment.

 

[calamari]

As far as the saw goes, don't do anything to it. And don't waste your money on one of those Egan or WCS muffler covers they're obnoxiously loud and they look like ****. Just run the saw as it is. Get some chaps, helmet with some kind of face protection, steel toe boots, and gloves. It's all fun and games until you catch a spinning chain to the leg or face. Another thing I'll recommend is running 40:1 instead of 50:1 mix fuel. A little extra oil will go a long way to help protect your investment.

More noise doesn't always mean more horsepower. My hearing is poor for the same reasons Ted Nugent's hearing is bad plus chainsaws, molding machines and 4' diameter wheeled band saws. Save your hearing as it becomes more important late in life.

 

[PV Hiker]

I'll add...

You are going to a bigger heavier saw with a longer bar length. Get used to the extra size and weight. And the biggie is you need to know where your tip is at all times, so get used to the extra bar length. Need to watch what it might hit on the backside of logs. That extra length of the 25" bar you might drop it into the dirt as you have been used to for years with a 18" bar.

It is the little things that make you safer.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

More noise doesn't always mean more horsepower. My hearing is poor for the same reasons Ted Nugent's hearing is bad plus chainsaws, molding machines and 4' diameter wheeled band saws. Save your hearing as it becomes more important late in life.

I agree 100%. Nothing against Egan or WCS they both make great products I just don't care for those wide open muffler covers. Way too loud and I don't like the way they look.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

If you have the means I'd open the muffler like this and save myself the money, you get basically the same result and it only costs you your time and the more open screen if you want to purchase it.

If you cut hardwood the 064 felling dawgs are a nice addition, they don't take up as much bar length and are less aggressive.

 

[user 122190]

Read up on the M-Tronics. Your habits will have to change a little going from a Carb saw to an M-Tronics. I had some problems with my 261 that were all user errors.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/ms261c-m-tronic-problem-today.353612/

 

[oldbuzzard]

Hey Guys,
After cutting firewood for 16 years with a 028WB on permanent loan from my father-in-law I finally bought a saw of "my own". Let's not get bogged down in discussion on whether this was a good idea. That ship has already sailed. Ha! First, I wanted something a bit bigger than my tired 18" saw. Then I was paid a nice chunk of cash (healthy down payment) for the first time ever to haul away firewood. What a treat! Finally I realized how many decades my young sons will have with this machine. With all that I talked myself out of $1200.
So before I get started, anything I need to know that my brief visit to James River did not convey?
Break-in?
Unusual features?
Essential mods?
Pitfalls?
I bought the $12 worth of synthetic fuel oil to double my warrantee. I know the saw will run without problems (if it runs at all. Ha!) for the next two years, but it was not hard to buy their 6 gallons worth of fuel oil.
What about the way the saw tips forward onto the long bar when you set it down. Is there a good remedy for this?
Anything I'm not thinking of?

Below, the last time she sees the living room, I suspect.

View attachment 949641

Lots of different opinions on breaking in (just like rifle barrels). My Stihl dealer says just put good 50:1 store bought premix (VP, etc) and run it. They are a big dealer, sell lots of ope, and I trust them. I only run store bought premix in my saws and I have virtually no maintenance problems, and I don’t have to worry about them getting straight gassed. I understand that if you run saws all day, six days a week that may not be economically feasible. I run a 28” lite bar and spikes on my 462. It is a great saw for the weight.

 

[Captainlarry]

I am very grateful for the helpful and broad range of feedback. You are a valuable bunch.

If you get bigger dawgs for it that will keep it propped up.

Thanks for this tip. Another mentioned "064 felling dawgs". Any other specific product suggestions for the new dawg design?

I recommend only use 93 octane gas with your HP Ultra

I only burn non-ethanol, but I'm not sure I can get 93 octane. Maybe at a race shop. What is the benefit of the high octane?

Warm the saw up before cutting about 15 to 30 seconds, with bare hand can feel the air from the cylinder on the clutch side.
After cutting let it idle for the same amount of time, this will help it when you restart better.

This is a good practice for all our machines. I work in the bearing business and I'm aware of the compromises we make in bearing fits due to a wide variety of operating conditions including start-up and shut down. Don't work it too hard while it's still cold, whatever it is. Let the bearing housings expand, for example.

send it off for porting when that job is completed, a combi can will keep your fuel tank cleaner with less spills, wedges for ease of cutting larger rounds without pinched bars. Keep the smaller saw for smaller stuff...your back will thank you, Stihl synthetic oil is ok but it produces excessive carbon. some folks like adding a bottom plate on their saws to protect it.

Wow, porting! I'm not gonna ride this thing, am I? Sorry, I'm just more of a stock guy. Not sending it to a shop unless it's broke.
What is a combi?
Wedges. I could stand some better cutting techniques to avoid pinching the larger logs. I will look for some new plastic wedges on that tip.
Bottom plate? Can you elaborate? I can see that working to keep the saw from tipping down onto the bar when set down. Tell me more.

Get some chaps, helmet with some kind of face protection, steel toe boots, and gloves. It's all fun and games until you catch a spinning chain to the leg or face. Another thing I'll recommend is running 40:1 instead of 50:1 mix fuel.

Ok, I've had this safety equipment for several years, but it deserves repeating.
As for oil ratio, I tried 40:1 in my husky bower and it would not run until I changed back to 50:1. I understand more oil can be better, but I'm not crossing that new carb right from the start.
.

More noise doesn't always mean more horsepower. My hearing is poor for the same reasons Ted Nugent's hearing is bad plus chainsaws, molding machines and 4' diameter wheeled band saws. Save your hearing as it becomes more important late in life.

If it is OK with the group let's just drop the muffler discussion on this thread. I watched the vid, I trust the guy at face value. I'm not racing and I very much enjoy great hearing - it makes up for my vision. Thanks.

Read up on the M-Tronics. Your habits will have to change a little going from a Carb saw to an M-Tronics. I had some problems with my 261 that were all user errors.

This comment hits the nail on the head for the kind of things I have no idea what I'm getting into. I'll read that other thread. Calibration? Huh? My son has been reading the manual to me and I'm taken back sometimes. Calibration 2-3 times a year depending on our varied conditions? Yikes! That's like a foreign word to me.

I only run store bought premix in my saws and I have virtually no maintenance problems, and I don’t have to worry about them getting straight gassed.

For as much as I use it, I might be OK with premix. I'll give it some consideration. If for no other reason it might be good so I don't have to deal with stupid plastic gas cans and all their problems.

THANKS GUYS! What else ya got?

 

[Runt8401]

With the pin tapped in I run 1 tank of fuel to 1 tank of bar oil turned wide open. I tapped my pin in before the 1st piece of wood was cut.

I run Honda HP2 aka "Smurfs Blood" at 45:1 mainly. Motul 800 2t off road or BelRay h1r is dang good oil also. There's several saw builders that has said Stihl HP and the Husky oil is nasty oil.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

 

[bwalker]

Personally I'd chuck the ultra oil in the trash.
And I would run the oil ratio at 32:1 with a good air cooled oil.

 

[user 122190]

Personally I'd chuck the ultra oil in the trash.
And I would run the oil ratio at 32:1 with a good air cooled oil.

When I switch to ultra 50:1 it was all good.

 

[Woodslasher]

I am very grateful for the helpful and broad range of feedback. You are a valuable bunch.

Thanks for this tip. Another mentioned "064 felling dawgs". Any other specific product suggestions for the new dawg design?


I only burn non-ethanol, but I'm not sure I can get 93 octane. Maybe at a race shop. What is the benefit of the high octane?

This is a good practice for all our machines. I work in the bearing business and I'm aware of the compromises we make in bearing fits due to a wide variety of operating conditions including start-up and shut down. Don't work it too hard while it's still cold, whatever it is. Let the bearing housings expand, for example.

Wow, porting! I'm not gonna ride this thing, am I? Sorry, I'm just more of a stock guy. Not sending it to a shop unless it's broke.
What is a combi?
Wedges. I could stand some better cutting techniques to avoid pinching the larger logs. I will look for some new plastic wedges on that tip.
Bottom plate? Can you elaborate? I can see that working to keep the saw from tipping down onto the bar when set down. Tell me more.

Ok, I've had this safety equipment for several years, but it deserves repeating.
As for oil ratio, I tried 40:1 in my husky bower and it would not run until I changed back to 50:1. I understand more oil can be better, but I'm not crossing that new carb right from the start.
.

If it is OK with the group let's just drop the muffler discussion on this thread. I watched the vid, I trust the guy at face value. I'm not racing and I very much enjoy great hearing - it makes up for my vision. Thanks.


This comment hits the nail on the head for the kind of things I have no idea what I'm getting into. I'll read that other thread. Calibration? Huh? My son has been reading the manual to me and I'm taken back sometimes. Calibration 2-3 times a year depending on our varied conditions? Yikes! That's like a foreign word to me.


For as much as I use it, I might be OK with premix. I'll give it some consideration. If for no other reason it might be good so I don't have to deal with stupid plastic gas cans and all their problems.

THANKS GUYS! What else ya got?

Here’s a link to a set of 064 dogs LINK A combi is a Husqvarna or Stihl Combi-nation fuel/bar oil can and a bottom plate is an aluminum plate that protects the bottom of the saw, and here is a link to one: LINK

 

[dstrick]

Nothing. Oil it, fuel it, and cut with it. Great saw.

 

[Dennisthemenace]

My experience.... 40/1 Amsoil, mild muffler mod, bigger dogs, don't over bar it and keep the revs up and you got great firewood saw. My go to for anything under 24 inch (Aussie) timber. Over that I get a bigger saw for the rounds but rip them into 1/4s or 1/8s with the 462. Nice and light

 

[farmer steve]

Nothing. Oil it, fuel it, and cut with it. Great saw.

@Captainlarry. This^^^^^^^^^^^. I have the 462 and this is what I did when I got it. Lots of good comments and options from the guys. Pick what fits your needs. As far as calibration I have never had to do it and it think it may be only needed if you do some major repairs/mods. Good luck with it and saw safe buddy.