Keeping your saw clean

[Lightning Performance]

Having a clean chainsaw seems counter productive. Sap should be cleaned off but besides spilled bar oil it seems pointless to me short term.

I didn't read the thread but most people haven't even... even taken off the tank handle let alone considered stripping the recoil or ignition coil for cleaning. The pto side gets all the love while the head packs up with **** and the goo gets bbqed to everything especially if your cutting wet softwoods. If you didn't soak the whole saw in some kind of solvent or cleaner then rinse it out, it's dirty. The real damage comes from no room for the AV system to move or just the opposite with loose loose motor mount s. The crap packed on everything metal or that should be metal gets eaten away and cooked all at the same time. The stuff in sap or pitch is eating away at all those nice shinny saws sitting on a shelf somewhere. The amount of stuff that gets packed in one saw during it's first season is crazy if it ran any real amount of time. I had to rip down every saw not being a commercial cutter every year and clean it. Pto side got cleaned weekly and the flywheel side got done monthly. Part timers get a few years before it all needs to come off just to be cleaned or soak it. Removing the tank handle isn't that hard just to clean out the ****. The other bad spot is behind the muffler. Bar oil gets spilled in there and packs up with chips and cooks everything. Buffing with a rag or wiping it down is pointless. My 2ct

 

[Lightning Performance]

Test the any solvent on a less important part of your saw, such as a scratched up part of the bottom, inside a cover, etc.

I have a wide range of solvents, cleaners, etc., that I use for a variety of projects and applications. Some will ‘frost’ certain plastics, some will soften them, some can be used to weld them! Some will remove paint.

Different manufacturers will use different types of plastic or paint on different parts of saws.

I like to start with the mildest solvent (water), then progress through citrus-based cleaners, alcohol, paint thinner, etc. before going to acetone, lacquer thinner, etc. I also have ‘Goof-Off’, ‘Goo-Gone’, and some 3M adhesive removers. Kerosene is an interesting idea.

Different types of alcohol (isopropyl, denatured ethyl, etc.) can make a difference.

BTW, I keep some acetone in (labeled) old nail polish remover bottles from my wife, daughter, etc., which makes small amounts easy to use in the shop fro cleaning, adhesive removal, etc.

Philbert

You should be writing service manuals for cleaning tools.
What are you waiting for?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Clean saws also weigh less.

 

[Officerdangle]

End of day my saws get sprayed down with brake or carb clean. Then most of saw gets spray applied lub or wiped down with bar oil. I also use compressed air on occasion but mess it creates in my garage is not worth the clean up time.

 

[Philbert]

I didn't read the thread but most people haven't even... even taken off the tank handle let alone considered stripping the recoil or ignition coil for cleaning.

I also use compressed air on occasion

Compressed air is definitely your friend when cleaning saws. Won’t get out any sticky ‘goo’, but gets stuff out of a lot of tight little spaces without disassembly.

I know some guys who think that compressed air can damage a saw. I actually contacted STIHL about this, and got an answer back, that basically said use common sense. Their older user manuals recommended compressed air for cleaning.

I brush / scrape away larger clumps with a sharpened popsicle stick or old toothbrush first; these won’t scrape like a scrench will. Close the choke. And avoid hitting things like the carb and any electronics with stupid high pressure.

Yeah, it makes a mess, but I do it outside. Afterwards, go back with a cloth or toothbrush, and solvent, if you want to make it look pretty.

I know that some guys use a pressure washer; I can’t get behind that unless it’s being done immediately before a total tear down.

Philbert

 

[PV Hiker]

Compressed air is definitely your friend when cleaning saws. Won’t get out any sticky ‘goo’, but gets stuff out of a lot of tight little spaces without disassembly.

I know some guys who think that compressed air can damage a saw. I actually contacted STIHL about this, and got an answer back, that basically said use common sense. Their older user manuals recommended compressed air for cleaning.

I brush / scrape away larger clumps with a sharpened popsicle stick or old toothbrush first; these won’t scrape like a scrench will. Close the choke. And avoid hitting things like the carb and any electronics with stupid high pressure.

Yeah, it makes a mess, but I do it outside. Afterwards, go back with a cloth or toothbrush, and solvent, if you want to make it look pretty.

I know that some guys use a pressure washer; I can’t get behind that unless it’s being done immediately before a total tear down.

Philbert

Agree with this.

Also to add that I use compressed air to clean what can be blown out and off the cylinder head fins to help keep the heat transfer. A tool to scrape some of it is needed.

I think one of our users used a pressure washer on a saw and did not dry and lube the needle cage bearing. It was pretty rusted and seized up.

But I giggle when I read "...that basically said use common sense." That is so across the spectrum for different people...

 

[timsmcm]

Agree with this.

Also to add that I use compressed air to clean what can be blown out and off the cylinder head fins to help keep the heat transfer. A tool to scrape some of it is needed.

I think one of our users used a pressure washer on a saw and did not dry and lube the needle cage bearing. It was pretty rusted and seized up.

But I giggle when I read "...that basically said use common sense." That is so across the spectrum for different people...

That is why I never critique anyone's methods on cleaning and upkeep. It's such a personal thing. Like why don't more men change their own oil or change a flat tire. I don't get it but none of my business.

 

[009Legend]

I like trying to keep things clean. I don't usually clean equipment if I'm going to be using it again the next day, but at the end of the week, or if I'm done for the season, I'll clean it as best I can, lube it up and put it away. Less contaminates, less corrosion, less problems next time I pick it up. Do what works for you.

 

[Bill G]

Clean saws also weigh less.

That is funny,,,,,and true.... @Modifiedmark did a thread on that subject many years ago. I am not sure if it is still viewable.

 

[Bill G]

......................I know that some guys use a pressure washer; I can’t get behind that unless it’s being done immediately before a total tear down.

Philbert

Well ole Brad Snelling posted many a pic of him using his wife's dishwasher but that was parts only.......................

 

[hop3]

Case in point, one of the keyboard warriors.

Yes, I bought a 500i for only three cords of wood per year, and am going to thoroughly enjoy cutting them. Don't be jealous.

Edit: Actually, be jealous if you want. It's kind of amusing from my side.

Me too

 

[Lightning Performance]

The pressure washer does rust flywheel magnets and coil laminated steel packs if you don't hit it with monkey piss, high pressure air and/or run the tool. Husky and older Dolmars with black anodized get rusty cap screws when left to air dry. My pressure washer days are about over with a large USC here now. I would still pressure wash or hot water sink wash a large chainsaw then blow it off and assemble it to run immediately upon being completed.

So if your doing a quick job washing it in hot water then pressure washing it that isn't a bad thing if your tearing it down now to dry all the metal bits as you go. The wood stove area is a good drying spot during winter months or a toaster over. Water inside a short block won't hurt anything with some oil in it. The dirt you get in the case will hurt stuff when you start it up wet or not. If the jug was clean you don't normally get dirt in the case when removing it. The water leaves in only seconds but be sure you can get it running that day. If not fill the case with oil till you can get it running again if your delayed. Wet ignition coils do rust after you wash them so spray them with something immediately. It takes less time to wash the block than all the bits so many don't remove very many parts just the covers and the clutch most times. Don't forget to spray the flywheel hub front and back before and after. Blowing out the crank taper with high pressure air is a must do here and check the fit with the nut removed. Most times I pop off the flywheel to wash it separate from the cases especially the nasty ones.

Philbert has your chemical analysis covered pretty good.
Oh btw crank seals do leak if you blast high pressure water directly at them.

 

[magreeable]

I had to remove big globs of pine sap from my girlfriend's car's windshield the other day. She didn't have denatured alcohol so I figured I'd try nail polish remover... a.k.a. acetone. That worked pretty well on the sap but I don't think it worked as quickly as denatured alcohol. As such, next time you have a sappy mess on your saws maybe borrow nail polish remover from your girlfriend or wife. It will look good sitting on your manly workbench and prove you are self confident.

The cheapest hairspray you can buy will melt the pine sap on contact.

 

[Czed]

Every time I think I've seen or heard it all..

Chainsaws start getting taped to stay clean..

I do recall you looking for a certain hue of color of jonsered filter cover clips recently.

 

[Czed]

3800 psi pressure washer does wonders on cleaning saws.
I do use dollar tree shower cleaner on the really cakes up saws
I don't care about sticker's though
My saws are well used.

 

[beautex]

Denatured alcohol is what is used to dissolve Shellac flakes, so it it stands to reason that it would dissolve tree sap.

 

[gggGary]

When I come back to the shop I liberally douse with mineral spirits from a spritzer bottle and air blow out the swarf.

 

[GrizG]

Denatured alcohol is what is used to dissolve Shellac flakes, so it it stands to reason that it would dissolve tree sap.

That's why I have a gallon can of it on hand... shellac and chainsaws, cleaning surfaces like the melamine outfeed table on my cabinet saw, and the occasional underground wasp nest. Dump some of the "alcohol stove fuel" in the ground nest and light it up... incoming wasps fall out of the air. My dog appreciates that... the wasps like his chain link run for some reason. No petroleum contamination either.

 

[Bubster]

Not really for cleaning,but paste Turtle Wax on an already clean saw does help keep junk from sticking.May have already been mentioned,but I never read the whole thread.

 

[Square Cutter]

I had good success in selling a couple of saws this past year, mostly because I kept them in good shape. And Clean! Keeping them clean is a lot of work, and not as effective as I would like.

Anybody use tape to keep the front of the chassis (under the muffler) clean? This area gets saw dust blasted, and with green wood the wood chips can seem to be almost glued on with epoxy. Packaging tape, duct tape, anything else to try?

When I was selling my ms290, the caller remarked how good the saw looked. When I told him it was 10 years old, and I cut about 10 cords a year, the guy got real quiet and said, "Okay, I'll think about it and let you know". Of course I never heard from him again. Bottom line; Buyers like clean used saws.

Good Idea! I wonder if masking tape would work well. I know it comes off nice and clean but not sure how heat resistant and long it would stay on. In a nice flat area with not much heat I would imagine it would be great. I know duct tape and electrical tape get pretty gross after a while.

I've had good luck with keeping some rubbing alcohol and a towel handy for sap. Whatever the air compressor doesn't get the alcohol gets it. Just have to keep up on it and spend the time or yeah it does turn into thick hardened chunks. That's what I've found anyway.

I had good success in selling a couple of saws this past year, mostly because I kept them in good shape. And Clean! Keeping them clean is a lot of work, and not as effective as I would like.

Anybody use tape to keep the front of the chassis (under the muffler) clean? This area gets saw dust blasted, and with green wood the wood chips can seem to be almost glued on with epoxy. Packaging tape, duct tape, anything else to try?

When I was selling my ms290, the caller remarked how good the saw looked. When I told him it was 10 years old, and I cut about 10 cords a year, the guy got real quiet and said, "Okay, I'll think about it and let you know". Of course I never heard from him again. Bottom line; Buyers like clean used saws.