Keeping your saw clean

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I use purple power, alcohol, and compressed air. Any heavy grime gets hit with a nylon brush. Ive found a coat of wax on the front helps keep the shavings from building up.
 
Good Idea! I wonder if masking tape would work well. I know it comes off nice and clean but not sure how heat resistant and long it would stay on. In a nice flat area with not much heat I would imagine it would be great. I know duct tape and electrical tape get pretty gross after a while.
Long thread, so I apologize if I am repeating this:

I have placed silver, metallic duct tape in places near my mufflers, primarily to act as a heat shield on plastic parts. Makes cleaning easier too.

I have also masked parts of my chain grinders too, to make clean up easier; for some reason the grit does not stick as well ad it does to the painted metal.

Philbert
 
I like your bench grinder idea with a taped on facade.

Long thread, so I apologize if I am repeating this:

I have placed silver, metallic duct tape in places near my mufflers, primarily to act as a heat shield on plastic parts. Makes cleaning easier too.

I have also masked parts of my chain grinders too, to make clean up easier; for some reason the grit does not stick as well ad it does to the painted metal.

Philbert
The aluminum tape that came in last year seems to hold up the best under high heat conditions. It was rated at 400, 450, 600 and 800 for furnace pipes. The 600 was the only one not affect by fuel in my heat tests. The stuff stuck well with little movement to a used piston in a 500*F toaster oven.
 
I periodically clean my saws, but I don't go nuts over it. Maybe a bit of oil eater, a parts cleaning brush, and an air hose. Sometimes they just get scraped off with a scwrench and then blown off. If I'm doing a tear down, I get pretty agro with the cleaning.

I don't do any preventive stuff to keep them clean. I figure they're tools, not shelf queens. If I'm selling one, I detail the crap out of it...it'll look clean, but the wear will be representative of its use. I'm not trying to trick potential sellers into thinking they are buying some super low hour saw. I do store them inside a cabinet, so they don't spend much time exposed to UV light...aside from scratches, my plastics look really nice on my saws.
 
I try to keep inside the airbox spotless and also give the clutch area some attention, keep an eye on the cooling fins, And anything caked on the outside. Every few sharpenings the bar groove gets cleaned and sometimes bar dressed.

I find after getting most of the crap out of the airbox a hose down with starting fluid works good, as it washes out remaining dust and washes off the oil which makes the crap stick.

Every once in a while I'll take the saw down and pull the clutch and flywheel and give everything a good clean up. Thick stuff scraped and brushed then out comes the parts brush and diesel followed by soapy water.

Sort of like this, 038 and 026

View attachment 973690View attachment 973691
Yes keep the cooling fins cleaned out lol i learned the hard way
 
When I get done with saw I'll usually give it a once over with compressed air, and have a small shop vac devoted to cleaning out the wood dust/bar oil gunk out of bar and around clutch. For the body I'll spray it down with a cheap bottle of armor all, any metal parts gets wd-40 or some seafoam deep creep.
 
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