Here’s an image of the Lisle puller. Likely score one for 15-20 bucks.
Lean 372 help please
- Thread starter gwat
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Those saws are known for bearing failures( particularly the early versions), if they've been run hard why not put bearings in them too.
If the idle is a little high on them, you can get into the timing advance and it will seem as though you have an air leak(although somewhat intermittent).
If the idle is a little high on them, you can get into the timing advance and it will seem as though you have an air leak(although somewhat intermittent).
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Gone fishing
Id say, based on my limited knowledge, that if it tends to be unstable at idle f.example from cold to hot.
Perhaps your crankshaft seals are getting at the limit of worn out, generally unstable at idle points to an air leak.
If this occurs when the saw is hot - you know everything expands when hot.
The prime suspects are: crankshaft seals, carb. booth at the cylinder or between the carb.
If its the crankseals they need to be replaced, carb. booth at the cylinder or at carb. side can be fixed with gasket silicone. Make sure the impulse tube to the carb. is in good shape and fitted properly.
All of these are aimed at leaking air to the bottom end of the engine, hot or cold or both.
So, when the piston goes up it creates a significant vacuum in the crankcase.
This pulls air through the carb. and the carb. adds gas to the air.
If there is a leak and some air does not come through the carb. - this air does not contain gas.
As a result; the saw goes lean. At full throttle this effect is less prominent because the tiny leak is just a droplet in the big ocean and don't really make a significant difference, but at idle it becomes much more sensitive and critical.
Perhaps your crankshaft seals are getting at the limit of worn out, generally unstable at idle points to an air leak.
If this occurs when the saw is hot - you know everything expands when hot.
The prime suspects are: crankshaft seals, carb. booth at the cylinder or between the carb.
If its the crankseals they need to be replaced, carb. booth at the cylinder or at carb. side can be fixed with gasket silicone. Make sure the impulse tube to the carb. is in good shape and fitted properly.
All of these are aimed at leaking air to the bottom end of the engine, hot or cold or both.
So, when the piston goes up it creates a significant vacuum in the crankcase.
This pulls air through the carb. and the carb. adds gas to the air.
If there is a leak and some air does not come through the carb. - this air does not contain gas.
As a result; the saw goes lean. At full throttle this effect is less prominent because the tiny leak is just a droplet in the big ocean and don't really make a significant difference, but at idle it becomes much more sensitive and critical.
gwat
ArboristSite Lurker
Simple answer is time.
I won’t have time for a full rebuild til winter, for now I just want to get the saws back in the fleet.
I bit the bullet and got the Husky seal pullers, they are not quite as spendy as I thought, $45 for the set from HL.
I went with Hyway seals, fingers crossed they hold up as well as OEM..
Hiway seals and gaskets are fine. Nothing definitive, but the Viton rubber they use in them may even be superior to OEM
I hear you.
At least you'll get a good look at them when you have it apart.
Good to know.
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Gone fishing
OEM Sthil pars are quite affordable when sourcing the web, why not use OEM.
Husky parts are about twice the cost it's worth, who not use an alternative ?
Only OEM parts from this site, directly from the manufacturer:
https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/ms460-magnum
Oh my... why just not buy a brand new saw instead of the parts...
https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/husqvarna/fits/husqvarna-365sp-chainsaw/
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Gone fishing
I just bought an OEM 460 crankcase at about 250 dollas + taxes, a 372 crankcase would be about 450 + ...
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Gone fishing
And I hope you and your family are getting by alright sir.
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I normally say OEM or bust, esp on the Chinese parts (and am still skeptical here) but that is interesting...
I agree when it comes to Chinese parts, but there are other aftermarket companies that make great alternatives, and some even better than stock depending on the item. Another thing to consider is when the parts are NLA in OEM, but an AM supplier has started making them.
That being said, hyway has made some great parts. I still don't buy them directly, but if they are on something I'm buying it's good to know what I'm getting, or how to advise others.
It's the opposite here, stihl is very expensive and husky prices are much better. Also Stihl distributors are not allowed to sell via the web here, so getting stihl parts is a trip to the dealer for those who do not have a friend in the right places.
Doing great here.
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Yes, and this is a major reason I mostly do not have Stihl saws.
Fortunately I recently found a local dealer that gives cost pricing for Stihl and Husky. I call in an order and pick up and pay when ready. And this kind of service is a very rare circumstance from my experience...
Before that it was a huge pain tracking down Stihl parts.
Husky is easy to buy online. Firedog, partstree, jacks small engine, etc. Pull up the parts diagram and order it. Easy.
Glad you made that connection, it is tough as no-one wants trouble.
gwat
ArboristSite Lurker
So I went in to do the seals and realized the o-ring under the clutch bushing was gone! Replaced the o-ring and it holds vacuum! Saw seems to run fine now. What a simple fix.
I’ve read to put RTV sealant on the inside of the bushing for better seal….anybody done this?
I’ve read to put RTV sealant on the inside of the bushing for better seal….anybody done this?
That o ring is usually disintegrated or was never present from the factory on most that I’ve seen. For most intents and purposes, when the clutch is tightened down, there is no leak or it’s so small that it’s not an issue. I always use a sealant or grease on the inside of the bushing when I install them
Normally I am the same way with most parts
