Linn Lumber 190A kit build

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OH_Varmntr

Burner of stored sunlight
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Ordered this kit back in September and received it this last week. This is the 190A complete carriage kit, built but not assembled. Chris at Linn Lumber offers kits or complete mills at various stages of build.

This is going to be for use for making lumber for farm projects. I have a Honda GX390 13hp engine for it.

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Started with welding up the 20' rails and temporarily assembling enough of the carriage to figure out my bunk heights.

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I'm looking forward to seeing it cut.

BTW that's not really a cold saw - cold cut saws run at much lower speeds 50-100 rpm and use a much higher pressure to cut metal. While the evolution type saws are better than abrasive saws I still prefer using bandsaws for cutting steel. Very quiet, zero sparks and far less swarf scatter. Bandsaw do take longer to cut, but they can usually be left cutting while I go do something else, and they turn themselves off when a cut is finished. One downside is they do take up more space in shop. I bought my horizontal small (6x4" cut) bandsaw second hand for $70 about 15 years ago and its been one of the most used machines in my shop. I do cut a lot of ally sheet on my Woodworking table saw using a negative raked tooth blade. I really dislike the noise but it does have really efficient dust extraction which reduces swarf scatter significantly.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing it cut.

BTW that's not really a cold saw - cold cut saws run at much lower speeds 50-100 rpm and use a much higher pressure to cut metal. While the evolution type saws are better than abrasive saws I still prefer using bandsaws for cutting steel. Very quiet, zero sparks and far less swarf scatter. Bandsaw do take longer to cut, but they can usually be left cutting while I go do something else, and they turn themselves off when a cut is finished. One downside is they do take up more space in shop. I bought my horizontal small (6x4" cut) bandsaw second hand for $70 about 15 years ago and its been one of the most used machines in my shop. I do cut a lot of ally sheet on my Woodworking table saw using a negative raked tooth blade. I really dislike the noise but it does have really efficient dust extraction which reduces swarf scatter significantly.
Indeed, it is not a true cold cut saw. I had plans on picking up a horizontal bandsaw for less than what I have in the Evolution saw, but couldn't spare the floorspace in the shop at this time.
 
Indeed, it is not a true cold cut saw. I had plans on picking up a horizontal bandsaw for less than what I have in the Evolution saw, but couldn't spare the floorspace in the shop at this time.
Yeah space is always a premium. I live on a small (4500 sqft) plot about 1 mile as the crow flies from the city central business district. My shop is 450 sqft (that's as big as teh city authorities will allow) but it contains a, Table sw, mitre saw, jointer/thicknesser, wood and metal bandsaws, wood and metal lathes, Drill press, Hydraulic press, 3 grinders, a welding booth/bay/table, 2 large benches, 9 chainsaws, and a furnace. My dust extractor and compressor are outside in their own enclosures. If I want to make anything large I have to do it on the back patio. I store wood and metal under the house. My milling spot at a tree loppers depot is 29 miles away which is a PITA but theres heaps of space there for gear and storage, and also projects if needed.

Good luck with your project.
 
I am addicted to building out of steel,, for fun,, I could not live without a bandsaw. I bought this one used, in 2001.
This is my 1" JET 9X16 ,, it is cutting four pieces of 3/4" thick steel at the same time.

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1/2" X 12" is so wide, I hate to pull that many teeth at the same time, so I put that steel in the saw on an angle.

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My shop is twice the square footage of my home,, so, I have room for it.
 
It was nearly 70 today in NW Ohio so I wiped all the carriage pieces down with acetone and put a good coat of self etching primer laid down.

My 5 year old picked out the Dark Hunter Green color. I'm not too big on the gloss but being as it will live outside I'm sure it will dull quickly.

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Two hours later and all of the carriage related parts are finished.

Turned the heater in the shop up to 60 and the dehumidifier is showing 56% so that should give it a decent cure over the night.

I doubt I'll make much progress on the track over the next few days but we will see.

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Some progress this evening. The crossmembers for the track are welded up. These will receive 2 drilled and tapped holes. One on either end of the top to bolt the bunks down to. There will be spacers to hold the bunks up off the crossmembers to allow space for the log holders to slide. Only the center 4 will have them.

I began assembling the carriage but the paint isn't as cured as I'd like it to be so it will cure atleast one more night.

Also, the kit came with split lock washers. These will all be getting replaced with knurled safety lock washers.

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Some details of assembly. Assembling bearings and spacers.
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Bearing and wheel assembly mounts and adjustments.
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ACME height adjustment. Easily upgradable to power assist. Linn Lumber sells a kit for these. The foot mounted bearings need their mounting holes located, drilled and tapped.
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Hydraulic tensioner cylinder. I have to drill and tap holes to mount the pump where I want.
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That kit is starting to look surprsiingly like our old mill. We bought it as a used mill in 2014 and it was at least 10 years old when we bought it and had not been well maintained., We know it came from the US but it had an eclectic mix of metrics and imperial bolts/threads plus has been repair with lots of Tek Screws.
It has electric lift but it uses the same hydraulic tensioner setup, Acme thread thru wooden blocks ETC
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Here's where the shaft was rusted to the bearing. Fortunately there were two thread holes in the inner bearing pac that allowed me to inset those bolts to rotate is against the there shaft.
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That kit is starting to look surprsiingly like our old mill. We bought it as a used mill in 2014 and it was at least 10 years old when we bought it and had not been well maintained., We know it came from the US but it had an eclectic mix of metrics and imperial bolts/threads plus has been repair with lots of Tek Screws.
It has electric lift but it uses the same hydraulic tensioner setup, Acme thread thru wooden blocks ETC
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Here's where the shaft was rusted to the bearing. Fortunately there were two thread holes in the inner bearing pac that allowed me to inset those bolts to rotate is against the there shaft.
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Hi Bob, that definitely looks like an earlier version of mine.

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Thanks

What sort of guide bearings/blocks will you be using?
Ours came with a simple down pressure home made Hardwood guide block setup
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However, amongst the parts box were the 2 rollers, one each side. I tried using them, but they kept getting clogged with sawdust and seizing so we went back to the wooden blocks - they work OK sort of but I wonder if they have improved on the rollers?
I modded and replaced the bearing bolt with a home made hollow bolt with and grease nipple, external spacer (1) internal space (3) to see if I could regularly blast the dust out of the bearing with a grease gun but still no good.

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Here you can see the new grease partway trough the bearings in pink.
I'm going to try this again with sealed bearings.
Orange is spacer 3, Blue is spacer 1.
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