Log skidding winch DIY

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dave_dj1

dave_dj1

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First pull is in the books!
I am needing some advice though.
I have two issuues, one is the clutch, I can engage it fine but it was slipping, I know the video doesn't really show it but that was a piece of green Oak about 14" across and about 12' long, HEAVY. I could pull it with no problem as long as nothing got it snagged. Tractor at just above idle.
The other issue is I have the lever adjusted tight enough so there is no free wheeling of the spool so when I am dragging out cable I am spinning the PTO shaft and sprocket as well, not sure how I'm going to overcome that issue. I am only using a two part ramp, I have a 3 part built but I thought I could get away with using just two outer pieces.
08cmFe0l.jpg

This is the three parts, I left the center out but I can put it back in if you think it will help. I think it will give me more travel so I should be able to get my free wheel back.
The other thing I am thinking is I need to "mill" the end of my spool as it was used steel that had some powder coat on it and some rust, I think a grinder and maybe a belt sander is in order there.
I'm open to suggestions. I would like to try it on some flat ground, I was a bit nervous as I was just at the edge of the road by my house. The Oak tree had fallen in the fall.
Thanks
 
dave_dj1

dave_dj1

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How is the mechanism made? How do you engage it?

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This is the three part set up,
VhNzw13l.jpg

I left out the middle one when I built it thinking it would be OK, my instinct is I'm going to have to do the three parts.
Basically just a couple of wedge shaped washers I made, pull lever they ramp up and wedge the spool over against the clutch. One concern is the clutch disc, it may be too large of a diameter, it may grip better if I used a smaller diameter clutch disc like one off a Suzuki Samuri or the like.
 
dave_dj1

dave_dj1

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Have you copied an construction from a winch? Both mine uses balls or pins to make enough force and movement.

Sent fra min TA-1053 via Tapatalk
It's loosely based on a Farmi type winch. I don't have machine skills or tools so I have no way to make the exact engagement piece.
I am thinking of ordering a Farmi engagement lever and halves. Would you know the diameter of the shaft? I have a 1" shaft.
 

agvg

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The Farmi has a little different clutch, large pads witch I think is softer and gives more friction so you need less pressure and movement to engage, I would try to copy Fransgard or old Norse/Sandvik witch both uses a more thin, hard and car like clutch.
So the engagment mechanism from a Fransgard V3000 winch like mine would be a better choice, have manual and partslist I can send you if you want it.
 
Jakers

Jakers

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another option would be simple brake pads so you aren't contacting so much surface area at a time. maybe even cut them in half to make the pressure applied be less spread out? the brake pad material would be more aggressive as well
 
dave_dj1

dave_dj1

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another option would be simple brake pads so you aren't contacting so much surface area at a time. maybe even cut them in half to make the pressure applied be less spread out? the brake pad material would be more aggressive as well

Thanks Jakers
That thought has crossed my mind but I couldn't find any information to substantiate it. I'm not opposed to adding brake pads if you think they will bite better. I can't wrap my head around less is more? I thought that having a large diameter clutch would be the best, I could be wrong.
 
dave_dj1

dave_dj1

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Well I pulled the drum off today, cleaned the clutch disc with some denatured alcohol (it was dirty) and then took a flap disc to the drum end, it had paint and rust pits on it, I shined it up pretty nicely and then wiped it down with the denatured alcohol. I put it back together and am waiting for it's next test run.

I did find one problem, the piece that is used to adjust the tension on the clutch ramp was binding on the shaft, 1" hole on 1" shaft and 1/4" material so I reamed the hole out and put a stop so the lever doesn't drop down to the left, I think it was actually starting to tighten up as it was going past center (if that makes sense) it gets moved to the right. I will probably install some linkage and the handle before it's next use just to be a little safer. Or at least some pulleys and some rope.
 
Jakers

Jakers

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Larger diameter will give you more holding but more surface area will give you less. so If you have smaller brake pads with less surface area, your ramp system of engagement will have more holding power over a smaller area. the trade off is wearing out the drum faster. If you move the pads to the very outside edge of the drum, you will also have the ability to hold more due to decreasing the load felt on the pads by the center of the drum/spool.

Hope that makes sense, I'm not a great teacher
 
Jakers

Jakers

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this is the style of clutch disk I'm assuming you have now, solid and normal material

Z1UnspunghubClutchDisc-4995.JPG


It would be better to switch to a high performance "button" style clutch or build your own using brake pads. these clutches usually are made using a ceramic/metallic compound that resists heat better and grips better but at the cost of eating up the flywheel faster

Clutch-disk-with-clutch-buttons.jpg_350x350.jpg
 
dave_dj1

dave_dj1

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Without a pressure plate I wouldn't figure the disc would have enough clamping force. There's several hundred lbs of clamp load on a plate. Is that ramped wedge going to exert that much force?
You are correct, I found between 600-800 lbs of force. Yes I believe the wedge can accomplish that given I am the force behind it and some mechanical advantage (lever).
I have just started researching high performance clutches. I was thinking maybe I could do the brake pad thing. I'm going to test it again after the cleaning and see how well or poorly it does :)
Here's some food for thought, I have a set of rear remotes and could easily adapt a hydraulic cylinder to push or pull the lever.
 

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