Good for you. I would extend the axles just bit as it will widen the tract a bit to make it more stable. Dry slide would lessen the squeaking that will likely take place. Or a little grease will work too just a little more messy. At any rate you can now work towards splitting wood. I have my share of projects trying to move forward. Thanks
Log Splitter Build
- Thread starter JakefromCharlotte
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Wood Hound
ArboristSite Operative
Jake, have you thought at all about the pluming, for this machine ??
JakefromCharlotte
ArboristSite Member
I have thought about it a little too much. My plan is to layout the hoses with scrap garden hose to get the clamping points figured out.
The main cylinder is a challenge. I will need a complete 180 to feed it from the valves.
I am toying with the idea of building a tube bender like the JD:
But then I saw this guys design on Youtube:
It appears his design is based loosely on commercial benders. (They use a chain and )
A tube bender is a project I have wanted to build for years. I'm just not sure it is worth it for two bends 18" long.....
Wood Hound
ArboristSite Operative
Has this cyl. been tested ? 5 in. with it`s short stroke, it`s a keeper-think i would put some money in it-i would change the ports-they do it every day...
Agreed would never want a 180 if possible to avoid it. They also look like smallish fittings for any decent flow rating. Not terrible hard for someone with your skillset to cut off and weld new fittings on.
JakefromCharlotte
ArboristSite Member
I repacked it before starting the build and hooked it up to my Bobcat. Seemed to work.....
I believe they are SAE 14 fittings. I would be more comfortable if I could TIG weld them. I bought some 3/4" hydraulic tube and was thinking about bending that into the "u"
Wood Hound
ArboristSite Operative
Found this. try this file, but SAE 14 is 1 and 3/16 big...
https://brennaninc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/BrennanThreadChart.pdf
https://brennaninc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/BrennanThreadChart.pdf
-14 is 14/16 or 7/8" tube size, the thread size is irrelevant, however it is larger then what I was guessing was on it. Hard to scale based on the picture, tubes look small.
I have -10 on my 5" cylinder on my splitter, I've often thought about bumping the fitting size up, but think I'm fine with the current pump flow I have. Hadn't realized you were -14 already. I'd still try to avoid the u bends I possible. If nothing else by redoing the fittings to better angles/ size your eliminating 1 failure point, and 2 areas that arnt conducive to nice flow. I've always been told to minimize 90+ degree bends in fluid systems if it can be avoided.
Take for example the kubota ssv series skid steer. Lots of foot room, because they went out of their way to rout the hydraulics under and to the side, lots of tight, unneeded bends in the tubing, it's noisy and creates unneeded heat. Which they know about, but wanted more operator comfort. In this case, I'd be making it as simple as possible. There would be no reason why a mig wouldn't be sufficient for the task. That's all the hydro shops around me have, and I've had them change fittings on cylinders enough times already.
On most of my stuff I use -14 or 3/4. I have carried through with that on my 28 GPM set up too. Which is probably wrong it should be 1" I plan on changing it to be better. With engines putting out 12 HP or less I do not think there would be any problem. I have gone to the wrecking yard many times in the heavy duty section to find 1/2 to 1'' hoses. Often there will be some reusable fittings. I do not pay more than $2 per hose so with an assortment it is easy to mock up a setup and adjust using the variation of the adjustable fittings. Along with the reusable fitting and the pressed fittings one can get the measurement exact. Thanks
JakefromCharlotte
ArboristSite Member
I'm sorry, I was guessing which caps I bought, the fittings are #12.
I struggle with leaks when welding pipes....
One problem I want to tackle is to rotate the fixed mounting yoke on the two small cylinder 90 degrees. That way the hoses can enter from the side. The yokes appear to be cast, but they are obviously welded to the main tube. My plan was cut off the lobes and re-weld them 90 degrees off. That way I don't disturb the seal. Welding cast is sketchy, but I don't think they a brazed originally.
Wood Hound
ArboristSite Operative
Mine are like that also, i just let them hang down...
Wood Hound
ArboristSite Operative
JakefromCharlotte
ArboristSite Member
Nice log lift. How do you stow it for travel.
I think my hoses might be lower....
I think my hoses might be lower....
Wood Hound
ArboristSite Operative
Use a strap..
Lol same thing I do with mine, my lift lines also hang off the bottom, but when stowed fully upright they stick out the side.
Wood Hound
ArboristSite Operative
I can see why now, you do not flip the cyl. 180°
What is your reason for wanting to do this? Let the hoses come off the top, use 90's if you want.
People say that 90's cause heat build up but unless you plan on running that splitter 8 hrs a day I wouldn't worry about it. I've seen a lot of commercial made equipment with plenty of 90's that get used way harder than any splitter.
Wood Hound
ArboristSite Operative
JakefromCharlotte
ArboristSite Member
Planning to use long sweep elbows for the cylinder.
Good info in there.
But, the filter on the suction side?
I have this filter on the tank right before the pump :
Slimline Suction Strainer
Wood Hound
ArboristSite Operative
That's ok, as long as it can handle your 22 GPM flow...
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