Log Splitter Build

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Made a few sparks this weekend. I spent a lot of time getting the ride height right and equal for both wheels. Ended up having to add 1.65" to the stabilizer legs. Also, I cut the cylinders to rotate the fittings for hoses, and worked on the log lift. I put a couple hinges on it so it will fold for transport. Now I need to figure out a way to lock it in the up position.

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Could lock it up, with the hydraulic method, by using an inline valve, this is what Brute Force does-also this valve can be used to control the flow to the lift cylinder...
 
Could lock it up, with the hydraulic method, by using an inline valve, this is what Brute Force does-also this valve can be used to control the flow to the lift cylinder...
The ram is all the way down. I put hinges in the middle. I am thinking about adding a chain to it with a key-hole for the chain to go through.
 
I am back at it! This weekend's project is a down and dirty quick build of a tube bender using scrap metal I have on hand. Fingers crossed....

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We spent last weekend in the mountains eating ice cream and riding the train at Tweetsie. Also, I found a tow rig.

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Finished the tube bender. It takes a good amount of effort to bend the 3/4". But the results are great! A lot better than my Harbor Freight Pipe Kinker. Now I can get back to working on the actual machine.....

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I think I will change the way the clamp works. Right now its just one bolt, but it would be better if it could slide towards the tube with a bolt pushing on it to keep pressure on the clamp.

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Back it! I am working on the hydraulic tubes this weekend and it occurred to me I don't know how oil flows out of the valves. The Prince info online didn't help much...
Can anyone tell me which port is pressurized when you pull the handle forward? (splitting the log)

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The pace of progress on the splitter is driving me nuts! Building in Charlotte is crazy right now. Mix in a few trips to the NC mountains and not much has been done on the splitter.

I spent the weekend bending tubes and brazing joints. The bending and brazing are getting better with practice for sure. My plan is to connect the tube to my Bobcat for pressure testing. So, we will see how good my brazing truly is. I also drilled out some restrictor fittings (1/16") to hopefully slow down the log lift and wedge lift cylinders. If that's to slow I can drill them out larger.

Since this is a two stage pump, how much flow at pressure does the pump need to see to kick into high pressure?

From Concentric: output are at first stage 22 GPM @ 650 PSI and second stage will be 6.5 GPM @ 2500 PSI

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You know those restrictions are gonna heat the crap out of the fluid and make the pump work harder then it needs to. Had issues with them on a 3pt mower for the extension and pivot rams. A flow divider would be the nicer way to do it. Suck off 2gpm and send that to the lift and wedge.
 
Who would have thought that making tube mounts would take so long.... But they're done., and I like them. Even the ones that broke my taps.

Tip: When power tapping on the mill, clamp the ever living hell out of the part. The mill seems to pull the part UP on one side. This is a problem....

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Now that all the tubes are brazed up, I have been pressure testing them on the Bobcat for leaks. The Bobcat gets them up to 2500psi or so. Is there a way to multiply hydraulic pressure? I would like to test them at 3500-4000psi if possible. Of course I didn't have just the right fitting to hook up the most suspect tube I made. This is the return line coming off the two valves. #12 inlets to #16 outlet. Drilled out a hunk of bar stock I had. I wasn't happy with how big it is, but it had to be that size so the perpendicular 3/4" tube has enough shoulder to braze.

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Also, I have been playing around with the 3D printer to make some proper caps and plugs for the hydraulic tubes. These are really just for paint. The ones from the hydro store are really loose and fall out all the time.

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