looking for advice on an old home made splitter

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Knot2fast

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hello everyone, I picked up an old home made splitter for free that someone just wanted to get rid of. I thought it might have potential, so I am looking for some advice on what problems, expenses, dangers may be involved in getting it up and working
some things to know about it
engine blown (not a problem I have a motor to put on it)
frame is 3"x8"x6' and is the hydraulic fluid reservoir and is still full
has not run in years, but before engine blew "there was nothing it couldn't split"
I don't know if pump works, and hydraulic lines to piston feel hard, as if there is still pressure in them while other lines are much more flexible
20220410_175651.jpg20220410_175710.jpg
 
Well, it needs tires. Hydraulic tank might be a bit small. ID will be smaller than outside so shy of 8 gallons. I'd carefully break the fittings on the piston and see if they are pressurized. Basics are there for the price to build a nice splitter.
 
That is about a $1500 splitter from Northern Tools. You dont really need new tires
to split wood. Only move it. You have the motor so I think only replacement hydralic
hoses and that is only if they prove bad. I would mount the motor first and then test
the hoses. Smear five dollars of axle grease on the frame to accomodate full length
of piston slide and you are ready to go. Find a hydralics shop in the yellow pages
and find one to custom make the hoses for you. I doubt it would be more than $150.
 
It can get water into the tank if it’s not completely sealed throughout the system. That’s not a huge reservoir so it wouldn’t cost too much to start fresh if you can. Otherwise just check it first and look for clear uniform color. Cloudiness or sediment would be a sign to toss it. If it looks good run it a while and then check after shut down. Sometimes it will foam up if there’s an issue with the oil.

You got a great deal there, you should be splitting wood in no time!
 
The pressure hoses, from the pump to the valve, to the piston, are just made of stiffer material than the return hose. Note the clamps on the return hose and the low pressure hose from the tank to the pump.
 
Surplus Center Lincoln, Ne. sells ready made hyd hose fo a reasonable price . Shipping might offset the savings. They have a good inventory of fittings to adapt to your needs but you need to know your plumbing so you order the right part the first time. They do internet sales.
 
Most farm supply stores and some NAPA auto stores have hydraulic hoses. Log splitters use open center control valves so they don't store pressure. The hydraulic reservoir small for commercial use but comparable to many consumer grade splitters.
 
Thanks for the input if I'm lucky I might be able to squeak out enough time this weekend to swap the engine out and see what works If It Moves I will change all the hydraulic fluid and just start fresh. Since there are no manufacturers specifications to reference what type of hydraulic fluid / oil should I put back in it?
 
This is what I use from tractor supply.
 

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Thanks for the input if I'm lucky I might be able to squeak out enough time this weekend to swap the engine out and see what works If It Moves I will change all the hydraulic fluid and just start fresh. Since there are no manufacturers specifications to reference what type of hydraulic fluid / oil should I put back in it?
I use automatic transmission fluid in mine. Works great, keeps things clean and maintains more consistent viscosity at various temperatures. Tractor hydraulic fluid is cheaper though....
 
I built this one for my dad 20 years ago, he on the 4th motor. plumb wore out the other 3 motors , the 1st one was totally rebuild, the other 2 new motors, this present motor was new also but is OHV motor so he modified the splitter so it could run this newer motor. I had rebuild it, clean it up, new paint in the attached pictures below. My dad is just plain hard on equipment. I build this for him when he retired if you call it retired, he was cutting 5 cords a day back then. He's an old logger, its just tough not having a saw in his hands.

So, this is mostly build from scrap steel I purchased at the metal recyclers. The cylinder is off a backhoe, I build the tank from some square tubing, I welded in some baffles for the return oil to spray against to help cool it. You need a tank large enough the oil to cool. Northern Tool sale a lot of splitter parts. I bought the pump, the valve, oil filter from them. I build my own pump mount but Northern sales a mount. I bought a 2 stage pump that step down to 5 gallon min/16 gallon min. This splitter pump never steps down to the 5gal stage. Therefore I wish I'd bought the 22gal pump. The 16 gal can move the cylinder six 36" strokes a min. I think it cal. out to about 46,000 to 48,000 psi. I know my dad so I welded the controls to where he couldn't reach the splitter and run the control, but he had a friend move it right after he got it. It needs a 4 way/6 way splitter adapter and a lift arm if I was to redesign it. Dad never use it in the vertical position no matter how big the rounds are. I made the beam so the wood can drop and pile up below the splitter and the slitter can be moved forward as it piles up. Dad cold deck his logs. Works in front of the deck.

I never run this much so I sure there is some other design changes that would work better. Oh and I build the muffler, I bought 3 commercial mufflers cut them and weld them back together to save weight and quiet it down to reasonable volume. Make sure you add in the charging system to keep the battery level good, the 1st motor i neglected to do that and that was always a pain for my dad.

If you can weld and have some fab skills they aren't to bad to build, but Northern Tool sale all the parts you need, tank, ram, pumps, filters, couplers (oh don't use a love-joy coupler for the motor/pump get 2 sprockets and a double roll chain). The hoses I just took the splitter to shop and had them custom made to make sure I bought the right fittings and hose lengths. I also recommend transmission fluid over anything else.
 

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Nice work James, alot of time and head scratching for sure. That would be a bit too ambitious for me, I just need to get the one in pictures above up and running again . There's a lot of knowledge and willingness to share here thank you all for your input
 
So I was able to get the new motor mounted and test the splitter out everything did work, no hydraulic leaks anywhere. I did have a small issue with the push block dragging on the rusty platform so I know I'll have to least clean that rust off. Is there something I can do with that push block to keep it from being metal-on-metal it has a little bit of slop in it and it seems to want to tip forward on the front Leading Edge as it would be pushing wood into splitting head
 
Is there something I can do with that push block to keep it from being metal-on-metal it has a little bit of slop in it and it seems to want to tip forward on the front Leading Edge as it would be pushing wood into splitting head
 
Some tip up others tip down. Has to do with the level the rod is attached to the pusher. Just grease the pusher, the rust will polish off with use. Wedge is a bit narrow for my liking.
 
Hit the beam with flapper wheel to get big rust off. I run a piece of that high density plastic maybe 1/4" thick under plate to the I- beam. Leave hoses be. Junkyard tires cheap
 
Superb! Now you know it's working it's got to be worth doing the standard maintenance tasks like a fluid change, and some cheap tyres so you can move it about more easily should the need arise. Then depending on how busy life is, maybe plumb in a larger oil tank, knock the rust off and give it some paint.
 
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