Looking for equipment advice for felling larger trees

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NuclearNick

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I'm not an arborist by any means, but have been doing tree work (basic felling, pruning, firewood processing, etc) most of my life. But I'm getting older and trying to be smarter. I have some large trees (50-100' oak and pecan trees) that are dead standing that I need to take down, and instead of just hoping for the best, I'm thinking about buying the right equipment to put them down in the right spot and minimizing damage to other trees, etc. If I just want to guide the fall of a 100' oak tree, what block / tackle combinations should I put together, and what's the best source for the tools? Amazon is nice, but I don't trust their offerings to be the best choices generally speaking.
 
I know down here pecan worms are a real killer, once the tree is killed its dangerous because they bore throughout causing rapid rot internally you may not be able to see. Limbing then felling as previously mentioned is great. Working with dead stuff sometimes you just have to take the damage it makes as it falls as it may be unsafe to climb or even operate a bucket next to it. The scary crap i have seen rotted trees do when they fall still makes my hair stand up. Best advice is make damn sure you have 2-3 clean exits to get the hell out of there once it starts shifting its weight.
 
I'm not an arborist by any means, but have been doing tree work (basic felling, pruning, firewood processing, etc) most of my life. But I'm getting older and trying to be smarter. I have some large trees (50-100' oak and pecan trees) that are dead standing that I need to take down, and instead of just hoping for the best, I'm thinking about buying the right equipment to put them down in the right spot and minimizing damage to other trees, etc. If I just want to guide the fall of a 100' oak tree, what block / tackle combinations should I put together, and what's the best source for the tools? Amazon is nice, but I don't trust their offerings to be the best choices generally speaking.
Where are you in Texas, Nick? Google hypoxylon canker. Since you mention dead standing oak and pecan that is where my head goes, and those are a whole other animal to take down. If that is the case, I am going to strongly disagree with the wedge advice. You start pounding wedges and you'll end up with a cracked noggin or worse.
A good throwball and throwline, 150' of 1/2" three strand rope, a masdaam power puller, and some loop runners with a prussic for progress capture are really all you need... probably 2-250 bucks through wesspur.
Set your rope with the throwball 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up the main stem, or around a couple if the pecan doesn't have a central leader, and then get the rope stretched out and jerk the hell out of it a few times to see what comes rattling down before you even think about cutting it down.
 
I'm not an arborist by any means, but have been doing tree work (basic felling, pruning, firewood processing, etc) most of my life. But I'm getting older and trying to be smarter. I have some large trees (50-100' oak and pecan trees) that are dead standing that I need to take down, and instead of just hoping for the best, I'm thinking about buying the right equipment to put them down in the right spot and minimizing damage to other trees, etc. If I just want to guide the fall of a 100' oak tree, what block / tackle combinations should I put together, and what's the best source for the tools? Amazon is nice, but I don't trust their offerings to be the best choices generally speaking.
What exactly do you mean when you say you've done "basic felling"? If you want to "guide" the fall of a 100 foot oak that isn't leaning crazy hard you don't need anything other than the saw, wedges and axe/hammer. A block and tackle won't help guide the fall, it'll just get the fall started if the tree is leaning the wrong way.
 
What exactly do you mean when you say you've done "basic felling"? If you want to "guide" the fall of a 100 foot oak that isn't leaning crazy hard you don't need anything other than the saw, wedges and axe/hammer. A block and tackle won't help guide the fall, it'll just get the fall started if the tree is leaning the wrong way.
Bear, Google hypoxylon canker... it's a Texas thing... these trees are so brittle, banging wedges will have the whole canopy come rattling down on you, they are that brittle... kind of like I hear guys fighting these EAB ash trees...
 
Bear, Google hypoxylon canker... it's a Texas thing... these trees are so brittle, banging wedges will have the whole canopy come rattling down on you, they are that brittle... kind of like I hear guys fighting these EAB ash trees...
Just looked it up and skimmed through. Not 100% certain but I believe I've seen that before back in Ohio, and you're certainly right about the brittleness. Brings me back to my question for the OP about his "basic felling" experience. He seems to be under the impression that a block and tackle setup will actually help him "guide" the tree in a specific direction. You and I both know that it doesn't work that way, even with healthy, good hinging trees. The block and tackle help guide till the tree starts to fall. As soon as it's past center and starting to fall the rigging is just along for the ride, and the hinge is what's doing the guiding.
 
Where are you in Texas, Nick? Google hypoxylon canker. Since you mention dead standing oak and pecan that is where my head goes, and those are a whole other animal to take down. If that is the case, I am going to strongly disagree with the wedge advice. You start pounding wedges and you'll end up with a cracked noggin or worse.
A good throwball and throwline, 150' of 1/2" three strand rope, a masdaam power puller, and some loop runners with a prussic for progress capture are really all you need... probably 2-250 bucks through wesspur.
Set your rope with the throwball 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up the main stem, or around a couple if the pecan doesn't have a central leader, and then get the rope stretched out and jerk the hell out of it a few times to see what comes rattling down before you even think about cutting it down.
This ^
 
Just looked it up and skimmed through. Not 100% certain but I believe I've seen that before back in Ohio, and you're certainly right about the brittleness. Brings me back to my question for the OP about his "basic felling" experience. He seems to be under the impression that a block and tackle setup will actually help him "guide" the tree in a specific direction. You and I both know that it doesn't work that way, even with healthy, good hinging trees. The block and tackle help guide till the tree starts to fall. As soon as it's past center and starting to fall the rigging is just along for the ride, and the hinge is what's doing the guiding.
I agree to a certain point. No, you can't "pull" a tree over. The purpose of wedges or a rope is to "persuade" a tree over past the center of gravity, at which point it takes over. In an urban setting, and especially with large, dead multistemmed trees, a good rope setup is definitely safer and gentler than wedges.
Having said that, especially on live trees, I have "pulled" trees over that would not have been possible with wedges alone. That's why a good arborist has a full toolbar of tricks, based on experience.
It's also why I have a few techniques I would never share in this forum, because those have to be learned out in the field.
 
Where are you in Texas, Nick? Google hypoxylon canker. Since you mention dead standing oak and pecan that is where my head goes, and those are a whole other animal to take down. If that is the case, I am going to strongly disagree with the wedge advice. You start pounding wedges and you'll end up with a cracked noggin or worse.
A good throwball and throwline, 150' of 1/2" three strand rope, a masdaam power puller, and some loop runners with a prussic for progress capture are really all you need... probably 2-250 bucks through wesspur.
Set your rope with the throwball 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up the main stem, or around a couple if the pecan doesn't have a central leader, and then get the rope stretched out and jerk the hell out of it a few times to see what comes rattling down before you even think about cutting it down.
Thanks for the response. I live about 20 miles south of Dallas in Waxahachie. I'll look around for signs of hypoxylon canker.

Good tips on the gear. I had looked at masdaam rope pullers online, seems like that's a good product. But like everything else that's useful these days everyone is out of them - 2 or 3 month wait to get one.

I'll look into loop runners & progress capture. Also guessing I need some sort of block for direction change if I don't want to stand right in the fall of the tree.
 
Thanks for the response. I live about 20 miles south of Dallas in Waxahachie. I'll look around for signs of hypoxylon canker.

Good tips on the gear. I had looked at masdaam rope pullers online, seems like that's a good product. But like everything else that's useful these days everyone is out of them - 2 or 3 month wait to get one.

I'll look into loop runners & progress capture. Also guessing I need some sort of block for direction change if I don't want to stand right in the fall of the tree.
https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/library/landscaping/hypoxylon-canker-of-oaks/
 
I use knot and rope supply out of Ohio I believe. Their 3/4" bull rope has been great but may be a bit big for what you want but I use equipment to pull trees. come alongs and block and tackle are only used when I can't get equipment to the tree and then it is going to be $$$. Every tree is different and can kill you in 100 different ways. That is why I won't recommend anything unless I am there as far as how to do the removal. Other than to think and LOOK UP as it is falling AND once it is on the ground. That is where the danger is going to come from unless you barber chair it or totally screw up the cut and it comes back on you. CJ
 
I use knot and rope supply out of Ohio I believe. Their 3/4" bull rope has been great but may be a bit big for what you want but I use equipment to pull trees. come alongs and block and tackle are only used when I can't get equipment to the tree and then it is going to be $$$. Every tree is different and can kill you in 100 different ways. That is why I won't recommend anything unless I am there as far as how to do the removal. Other than to think and LOOK UP as it is falling AND once it is on the ground. That is where the danger is going to come from unless you barber chair it or totally screw up the cut and it comes back on you. CJ
Thanks. Right now I use 3/4" dock mooring lines I got from an old yachter - nice long lines with high strength eyes in them. They are easy to use, and so far so good, but not really the right tool for the job. Trying to be smarter and do this the right way.
 
From a wimpy’s opinion, if the tree will fall on it’s own in the direction of its lean then leave sleeping dogs lie. If you you must fell it then do so in the direction of its lean. With dead rotten trees the tops or big limbs like to break out and come back at you.
 
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