Mac 250 - - Need some info. and insights, please.....

[RenaisSAWnceMan]

Picked up a clean, apparently-unmolested Mac 250 recently, and now doing the sortin' out of condition, needs, info. etc.

A kind and helpful member has forwarded manual and parts list (thanks, again, Bryon!), and suggested that the block numbers raised a question. [62481 90185] I'll simply use his words to put it out there, for anyone with further insights to comment:

" While looking up the numbers from the block I found something interesting. The 62481 number matches with the MC-49C cart engine. I know that McCulloch had been known to mix and match some parts due to the interchangeability of parts. They possibly were out of the 61911 blocks the day that yours was assembled and substituted the MC-49C block. They share the same displacement as the 61911 blocks. I might post a question on the Mac thread and see if anyone has any more info or if anyone else has run into this configuration before. "

Can anyone pin down the year-of-manufacture?

------------------------

The photos reflect just a quick, pre-superfuss wipe down. Unfortunate that the carb/filter cover has a crack, given the rather clean overall state. 'Spose I can repair, or get a replacement if I decide to perty it up fully....

* Need the oiler push shaft button only, if anyone has one floatin'
around.

* May be interested in a mintyish filter cover, perhaps.

* Might be interested in a bar in the 24-28" range. (Guess I'll stick
with what I assume is 404 gauge. Current chain has a '504', and
my research has indicated that these did use 063/404, correct?)

As a past antiques dealer, with a 'conservator's heart', and one who has been around electro-mechanical things a fair amount, in various capacities, I always appreciate an oldie-but-goody, especially one having survived rather well! This one, most definitely, is in the 'keep it as-it-is, given the clean and original state' category(well, 'cept maybe for that cover). And, of course.....take her out for some eatin' :chainsawguy:

Have only had a chance to pull the plug, and was pleased to find a good fire in the 'ole hole. Definitely promisin', so far, though..... Now, who has a Super Pro 125/C to keep this one company??!!

- How does one manage/use the manual oiler? i.e., is there any
rule-of-thumb guideline for frequency and manner of button/
application, etc.? - Am I correct in assuming that modern
bar&chain oil is best? (I use Husky Premium)

- IS there an issue with using pump gas with ethanol? Any
additives that are needed?


Thanks much for any input and insights!

{Note: Have spent a fair amount of time here, lookin', learnin' and viewing, in the past. Not uninitiated, have done some cuttin' over many years, some bigger stuff with the 394XP, etc., but really appreciate all the insights, info. and common-interest stuff on this site, thank you!

 

[Nardoo]

Nice

Sorry cannot help with the date of manufature - but that is one nice old saw you have there. I have found the secret with the oiler is to pump like mad. If you have a sore thumb you are doing it right (rule of thumb?). After an hour of cutting you will also have a sore back. Oh, and your ears will be sore too.

But you will have the biggest smile on your face. Here is my ugly baby:

Al.

 

[67L36Driver]

Unless someone has repainted that one, it's in very good condition for a saw that old.

Wear hearing protection [stack muffler(?)]. Keep the iibuprofen within reach.

 

[RandyMac]

Yep, in excellent condition.

That is one of the last of the 250s made, 1969-70. I have one, not as pretty. There were minor production changes, nothing to worry about. I can email IPLs.

Dogs or spikes are in order, depending on what you cut with it and the pointy things will protect the fuel tank from getting slammed into the wood, the paint will last longer too.

 

[eMGunslinger]

Model Profile: 250

If you want some background on it:msp_w00t:

 

[heimannm]

I try to remember to pump the oiler every 5-6 seconds when in a long cut, or before putting it in the wood for a shorter cut.

That saw will have a Tillotson HL63 carburetor, very easy to find kits and equally easy to work on.

I would avoid ethanol blended fuel in that saw if possible, I had one that corroded through the fuel tank. Of course in those days I didn't know enough not to leave it partially filled for weeks, even months at a time...prior to 1981 you see.

As Randy has suggested, get a set of spikes and use that bar for a while before you get too anxious to put a bigger on on. Later on if you are still convinced you want a 24" I have several good used vintage bars hanging on the wall. Bigger McCulloch bars are hard to find, but there are lots of others (Oregon, General, etc.) available in hard nose and roller nose. Very few vintage bars with the sprocket nose as they didn't come till later.

Look at e-bay for an air filter cover, you might have to buy a whole part saw or may be able to find just the cover. Check with chainsawr and cheapchainsawparts for starters.

Mark

 

[raceyblue]

chainsaw bars for a mac

hello,iam in need of a 24",063 guage bar for a mcculloch 250. it can be used and in decent shape.thanks and god bless.

 

[Tommy in Wilton]

That's interesting. Your air cleaner cover has some black paint; If you have a muffler, then you have a Mac 250 Super. I have a regular Mac 250, and it has a yellow air cleaner cover and NO muffler, just a 2 inch square stack with 12 small holes on the end.

Where are you finding these production numbers? I think my own Mac 250 is from about 1965; When I look at the bottom, it has "250" over "200", and right of that is "56 * 391", where the "*" looks like some sort of small zero, probably a mis-strike.

Any ideas as to the actual year of this saw?

Thanx!

 

[RandyMac]

The IPLs have a serial number range, block model numbers vary hugely and won't always indicate year of manufacture.

 

[Bronzebird]

Old Thread is bumped because I have the same block stamp #62481 92xxx


In the middle of a rebuild and jug ports are clean...impressive cast from back in the day!