mac pro 10-10 auto gas in exhaust

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well guys i think i go i ,go the electronic chip in and back together and started right up will see hoe i goes now once i get the bar and chain back on and tune he carb. just want to say a big thanks to all on here who helped me with this,if i have any more trouble i will be back as you guys are great.thanks again Jim
 
hey guys another question, his pro 10-10 auto has the original bar 16 inch and seems to be in good shape but the chain is not good what would you recommend for a replacement chain thanks in advance
 
hey guys another question, his pro 10-10 auto has the original bar 16 inch and seems to be in good shape but the chain is not good what would you recommend for a replacement chain thanks in advance
Since no one has replied, my favorite chain right now is the EXL style chain from Oregon, I have heard that the new x-cut from husqvarna is very good also .
These would be my choices.
 
well i guess i can say i tried. got the electronic chip in saw started up and ran.put bar and chain on and it would not start. let set over night recheck high and low and saw started,shut it off and it would not start,so i guess it is time to move on and leave it set on shelf ,any thoughts thanks Jim
 
well i guess i can say i tried. got the electronic chip in saw started up and ran.put bar and chain on and it would not start. let set over night recheck high and low and saw started,shut it off and it would not start,so i guess it is time to move on and leave it set on shelf ,any thoughts thanks Jim
You possibly have the + and - reverse on the chip.
 
i hooked the chip up like the instructions showed neg. to ground and pos. to coil. if they were switched it wont start and run would it?? will check my hook up just the same.thanks. getting tired of pulling on it lol
Generally they will run momentarily and poorly even hooked up backwards
 
it will run and speed right up to WOT ,but when i shut it off it won' restart even after sitting a bit but will start up the next day after sitting over night. i will check for spark this morning,it is a pain to get the side cover back on with the starter dogged i used a real small fine piece of wood to hold the dogs out to help get cover on.
 
it will run and speed right up to WOT ,but when i shut it off it won' restart even after sitting a bit but will start up the next day after sitting over night. i will check for spark this morning,it is a pain to get the side cover back on with the starter dogged i used a real small fine piece of wood to hold the dogs out to help get cover on.
If its revving up it is either running out of fuel or sucking air in through somewhere ,there's really nothing else it could be ,period.
Set the cover on loosely and pull the cord ,it'll set right down on its own.
 
You can do a pressure/ vacuum test with a mighty vac tool or a brake bleeding tool. Lots of videos of the process on YouTube.
If you can keep it running for a minute? I usually give suspect areas a shot of brake cleaner with the straw in the nozzle, that will immediately kill the saw as it sucks in the brake cleaner.
 
well i got a chance to work on it some more ,got some brake cleaner got it started and sprayer cleaner around bottom of carb.and it quit restarted and sprayed other side of carb.and it again quit. the gasket is new but will take carb off and reclean and use another new gasket,should i use and gasket sealer when reinstalling ?? thanks in advance Jim
 
well i got a chance to work on it some more ,got some brake cleaner got it started and sprayer cleaner around bottom of carb.and it quit restarted and sprayed other side of carb.and it again quit. the gasket is new but will take carb off and reclean and use another new gasket,should i use and gasket sealer when reinstalling ?? thanks in advance Jim

Well don't forget that there's 2 Gaskets and a spacer directly underneath the tank that could be bad.
 
when i sprayed the brake cleaner on bottom of carb. it quit. before the carb. rebuild it did run ,should i put a little gasket cement on the gasket?? thanks
 
Had a 10-10 that drove me crazy with this. It would run at first and then flood out, dribble gas out the muffer, etc. I must've had that carb apart 100 times. Turned out to be a multitude of issues. Some of it was adjustment, but it also had some gunk stuck down in the seat. After replacing the needle, triple checking the arm, and cleaning out the seat REALLY well with q-tips, it hasn't given me any issues. I think I also stretched the spring a hair to give it more seat pressure.
I have read that some people had success cleaning up a damaged seat with a mildly abrasive rubbing compound.

Also have a little homelite that did this to me. I almost dropped a match in the gas tank one day I was so mad at that saw! That turned out to be some very small bits of dirt that found their way in there, and like my 10-10 were causing the needle not to seal on the seat intermittently. Glad I didn't burn it up, it turned out to be a lot of fun and is now one of my go-to saws for smaller stuff.

Also, I assume it's the diaphragm style that hooks on to the arm? Make sure the button is hooked in there and not sitting on top of the arm. Voice of experience. :)
One more "also"; make sure the diaphragm gasket is on the carb body side and not on the cover side.
I had that same problem with it starting then flooding, apparently upon reassembly of the carburetor I had laid the diaphragm ontop of the metering needle instead of hooking it into the slot.
 
I've had 2 10-10's that had bad check valves in the carb causing flooding that needed an extra part when rebuilding the carbs. Part 86-523
 

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