I see the world as a giant puzzle and get pleasure tinkering with ideas. Like the time I installed a Ford Pinto engine in a VW Bus.
So today I've been playing with a small 2135t Jonsered bar.
The thing looks almost like my small Oregon Bar EXCEPT it has that tiny oil hole.
It's concieviable that one could drill an oil hole in the right place on the small Oregon Bar and install it.
Recently while in Tractor Supply a Guy was told by an employee, we don't have a chain for that bar. I could tell the Guy was disappointed so ask to see his bar. Stamped in view was the Specks. I showed him how to find a fit. Today I was asked, What's a Scrench?
The thing we must remember is all of us were asking those questions one time.
Learning about bars and Chains and how to mix and match is important. Sharing that knowledge is kindness.
The first thing I do is remove the bar chain and clean them.
With oil and gas in the saw I start the saw making sure it's oiling. I note the location of the oil pore.
Then place the bar over the mounting bolts and visually check to see if the adjustment hole lines up with the oil dispersment hole. If so that saw oils through the Tension hole.
Next (bar tip fit) take the old chain and place it over the bar tip with the tip straight up. If it fits in the tip Sprocket on both the old bar and new bar you have matched the pitch.
Bar Slot needs to fit mounting bolts.
If everything looks good EXCEPT the oil holes in the replacement bar I drill part way through the new bar where the oil flow should be.
Lastly, I bolt the bar WITHOUT a chain and start the saw.
With the BARE BAR angled 45% I start the saw and throttle up just enough to get the oil to flow. If it's oiling you should see oil in the top of the bar groove and some dripping off the end of the bar.
Set the saw down and examine the top bar groove. If there's oil next install chain. DO NOT START ENGINE YET. Ioosely tension the chain but DO NOT tighten It up real tight yet
With HAND PROTECTION, grab the top of chain near the motor and sowly pull the chain through. It MUST feel right. Snug and check. Flip the saw over observe the Sprocket. The chain must pull through smoothly without jumping up and down.
I fit many types of bars on different Saws.
Yesterday caught a sale on Oregon 18 inch 3/8 combo bar chain. .050 guage BUT as long as the chain and bar match Guage isn't a problem for most Sprockets.
I'm running cheap stuff on my cs490 and cs352 for Flush Cuts and working brush.
A mistake I see often is people cutting small flexible stuff using the bottom of the bar. Removing small stuff by cutting off the Top of the bar throws stuff AWAY from the operator. It would be good if Rural Schools taught a class on Chainsaw use AND not starting a food fight Guns AND farm equipment. Hell I was tough on my Grandsons teaching them and they grew up into good hard working Men. My 4 year old Granddaughter won't get near a Chainsaw or a gun but she understands those TOOLS can kill you. Kids who's parents won't let the Kid around danger are the kids who more likely will get hurt. Ok. I'm done . Just my opinion but what do I know. .
So today I've been playing with a small 2135t Jonsered bar.
The thing looks almost like my small Oregon Bar EXCEPT it has that tiny oil hole.
It's concieviable that one could drill an oil hole in the right place on the small Oregon Bar and install it.
Recently while in Tractor Supply a Guy was told by an employee, we don't have a chain for that bar. I could tell the Guy was disappointed so ask to see his bar. Stamped in view was the Specks. I showed him how to find a fit. Today I was asked, What's a Scrench?
The thing we must remember is all of us were asking those questions one time.
Learning about bars and Chains and how to mix and match is important. Sharing that knowledge is kindness.
The first thing I do is remove the bar chain and clean them.
With oil and gas in the saw I start the saw making sure it's oiling. I note the location of the oil pore.
Then place the bar over the mounting bolts and visually check to see if the adjustment hole lines up with the oil dispersment hole. If so that saw oils through the Tension hole.
Next (bar tip fit) take the old chain and place it over the bar tip with the tip straight up. If it fits in the tip Sprocket on both the old bar and new bar you have matched the pitch.
Bar Slot needs to fit mounting bolts.
If everything looks good EXCEPT the oil holes in the replacement bar I drill part way through the new bar where the oil flow should be.
Lastly, I bolt the bar WITHOUT a chain and start the saw.
With the BARE BAR angled 45% I start the saw and throttle up just enough to get the oil to flow. If it's oiling you should see oil in the top of the bar groove and some dripping off the end of the bar.
Set the saw down and examine the top bar groove. If there's oil next install chain. DO NOT START ENGINE YET. Ioosely tension the chain but DO NOT tighten It up real tight yet
With HAND PROTECTION, grab the top of chain near the motor and sowly pull the chain through. It MUST feel right. Snug and check. Flip the saw over observe the Sprocket. The chain must pull through smoothly without jumping up and down.
I fit many types of bars on different Saws.
Yesterday caught a sale on Oregon 18 inch 3/8 combo bar chain. .050 guage BUT as long as the chain and bar match Guage isn't a problem for most Sprockets.
I'm running cheap stuff on my cs490 and cs352 for Flush Cuts and working brush.
A mistake I see often is people cutting small flexible stuff using the bottom of the bar. Removing small stuff by cutting off the Top of the bar throws stuff AWAY from the operator. It would be good if Rural Schools taught a class on Chainsaw use AND not starting a food fight Guns AND farm equipment. Hell I was tough on my Grandsons teaching them and they grew up into good hard working Men. My 4 year old Granddaughter won't get near a Chainsaw or a gun but she understands those TOOLS can kill you. Kids who's parents won't let the Kid around danger are the kids who more likely will get hurt. Ok. I'm done . Just my opinion but what do I know. .
