Making your own Anchorseal

[KiwiBro]

Latex paint.

Anchorseal.

Paraffin wax.

These seem to be the main options. Reclaimed or should that be re-purposed (?) latext paint seems to be the cheapest option but most people consider it not as good as Anchorseal or paraffin wax.

The latter I can get at good prices. But how best to 'cut' it to keep it liquid for easier handling out in the field? I've read of using turps or a water-based thinner.
If turps, I've read a 50:50 blend of turps and paraffin.
If water based, I've read of a few different approaches. One is equal parts water and any type of oil to lower the melting point of the final solution, and water (with an experimental amount of liquid dish detergent ).

Has anyone settled on a homebrewed paraffin wax based recipe they find works well and can you share it please? Thanks.

 

[BobL]

I experimented with a few different turps/wax mixes by melting the wax in a saucepan on an old electric fry pan and then mixing in the turps. When it cooled it formed a waxy sludge that slowly settled out. The sludge could be resuspended by shaking. Provided it's not too cold it goes onto the log ends easily enough but it seems to need several coats so it doesn't go as far and does not seem to hang on anywhere near as well as Anchorseal or paint

Anything petroleum based costs an arm and leg here in Oz so Anchorseal, paraffin wax, and turps costs $$$. For example, a small quantity like a gallon, of Anchorseal costs ~$60 . It's cheaper if it is purchased in bulk but the smallest bulk quantity is 50 gallons and for me it has to be freighted (at my cost) right across the country - remember thats like from east to west coast USA! A gallon of my wax/turps mix costs around $15 but I have to use twice as much so it's costing me closer to $30 a working gallon.

Many years ago I used something called Bondcrete (a PVA cement additive) diluted 1;1 with water on a bunch of slabs. Recently I pulled out some of those slabs and boards that I had used the Bondcrete on and they were in very good shape. My brother has always used this as well and swears by it, so I might go back to using it. This works out at around $17 a gallon so $ wise that sounds like the cheapest way for me to go.

 

[KiwiBro]

Thanks Bob. Up until last week I could get big drums of PVA glue for crazy-cheap prices but it was too good to last, unfortunately. Only have about 10L left which is being saved for very amateur attempts at furniture.

Paraffin wax and turps are approximately $3.50 per kg and L, respectively, delivered.

Latex or acrylic paint is cheaper but hard on machining knives when running the lumber. But it dries quick so less chance of gritty dust sticking to it.

I haven't found Anchorseal here in New Zealand yet so don't know what they price it at here.

I'll ask around the various woodturners guilds here and see what they suggest.

 

[BobL]

We don't have AnchorSeal either. We have something called EndCheck but its the same stuff.

 

[mad murdock]

how about just straight up beeswax, melted in a bucket, and painted on whilst still liquid? I would think beeswax would be the "beesknees", have you tried it? I have not had a need for end grain sealer, but have seen straight beeswax used as described, looked like it would work pretty well.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

how about just straight up beeswax, melted in a bucket, and painted on whilst still liquid? I would think beeswax would be the "beesknees", have you tried it? I have not had a need for end grain sealer, but have seen straight beeswax used as described, looked like it would work pretty well.

Yes it works good, it's a PITA to do it that way, but it does work good.

SR

 

[BobL]

how about just straight up beeswax, melted in a bucket, and painted on whilst still liquid? I would think beeswax would be the "beesknees", have you tried it? I have not had a need for end grain sealer, but have seen straight beeswax used as described, looked like it would work pretty well.

Ive tried it and found it depends on a number of factors, like how wet the wood is, the wax itself (they are not all the same) and the temperature it is being applied at. It works well if the wood can be dunked into the hot wax but I found it does not penetrate that deeply and tends to flakes off when the wood is too green or cold. It works really well when the log is hot and some folks have helped it along by playing a hot air gun across the log while it is being applied. And I agree with Rob that it is a PITA to apply. Where I live it is also quite expensive.

 

[mad murdock]

Thanks for the explanation BobL. That makes sense.


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[Mike Van]

20+ years ago I found it all to be a pita or expensive, the time & money don't justify the savings.