Making your own chains

[GeorgiaVol]

So I was looking into using a breaker and spinner to shorten some of my 20 inch .325 chains into 18 inch chains,
But out of curiosity, could you splice 2 used chains together? Like say you wanted to make a 28" chain out of 2 20" chains?
I have a BUNCH of chains and it would be awesome to just make the ones I actually use out of the pile of odd-balls..

 

[Dennisthemenace]

As long as they are the same pitch and gauge of course you can join them up. I've got some full comp 3/8 with a bit of full skip in it. Cuts good

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Seemed like it should work, just didn't know if they had to be all new or mixed and matched old ones would work.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

This is really gonna help out with some of my older hard nose bars.

 

[Woodslasher]

So I was looking into using a breaker and spinner to shorten some of my 20 inch .325 chains into 18 inch chains,
But out of curiosity, could you splice 2 used chains together? Like say you wanted to make a 28" chain out of 2 20" chains?
I have a BUNCH of chains and it would be awesome to just make the ones I actually use out of the pile of odd-balls..

Yes, you can splice used chains into different lengths.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Yes, you can splice used chains into different lengths.

Thanks! Don't know why I didn't think of this sooner. I have tons of chains, but only a few in the right lengths for a couple of my saws.

 

[Franny K]

It may not be as easy as expected. The holes in the drive links may not be the same size, the spacing is universal for every two increments, the spacing of the holes in the drive links and the spacing of the rivets in the tie straps and cutters but there is no rule that says those two are equal, or if they are 55% and 45% or similar. Then the gauge generally Stihl uses the same pre set tie straps for .050, .058, and .063 where Oregon has the .058 and .050 the same but 0.063 different. The .325Nk stuff can have quite a few different tie straps if you get into that.

 

[Wood Doctor]

It may not be as easy as expected. The holes in the drive links may not be the same size, the spacing is universal for every two increments, the spacing of the holes in the drive links and the spacing of the rivets in the tie straps and cutters but there is no rule that says those two are equal, or if they are 55% and 45% or similar. Then the gauge generally Stihl uses the same pre set tie straps for .050, .058, and .063 where Oregon has the .058 and .050 the same but 0.063 different. The .325Nk stuff can have quite a few different tie straps if you get into that.

Excellent, Frannie. Needless to say, I have reamed out holes in drive links with a round file more than I would care to admit. Connecting chain loops up after braking them apart can be a first class PITA. Then you should connect loops that have the same wear level. That's always a treasure hunt.

 

[Del_]

I've got a bench punch for pushing out rivets but I've found it is easier to grind the rivet head off with a dremel tool before going to the punch.

 

[user 122190]

I have my saws set up for 3/8 0.05, of many different bar lengths. Buy chains on sale at best cost per drive links, then make my own as needed at whatever length required. Cheaper then buying a 25 or 100 foot long reel of chain.

 

[J D]

You can, but when combining chains you should select ones with the same profile & similar ware from the same manufacturer & use the correct guage presets & tie straps for THAT MANUFACTURER.
If you mix chains/joiners there can be variations that lead to excessive wear & damaged/broken links. I have experienced this first hand

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Great info here guys! Thanks!

 

[GeorgiaVol]

The chains I will be making most are 20 inch .325 chains into 18 inch chains, and 70dl 3/8 into 72dl.
Other than that, the odd ball 3/8 hardnose loops.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

Oh, and some of my 16" 3/8lp chains adjusted to fit my Homelite XL saws 14" and 12"

 

[user 122190]

You can, but when combining chains you should select ones with the same profile & similar ware from the same manufacturer & use the correct guage presets & tie straps for THAT MANUFACTURER.
If you mix chains/joiners there can be variations that lead to excessive wear & damaged/broken links. I have experienced this first hand

Huskys and Oregons is what I buy. They should match, right? Tie straps are Oregon.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

I have a whole heapstack (maybe 10?) of 18" Stihl 3/8 non chisel chains. The saw is an 032AV that seems to have a spooky ignition problem and won't run. It happened to be my grandfathers. I either need to fix that saw, find another Stihl with an 18" or break the chains up to use for loops for my numerous Husqvarna saws with 3/8 050. If I play my cards right I may never need to buy another chain again my entire life at this point except 3/8 picco.

 

[GeorgiaVol]

My thoughts as well. Probably have 20 of various 20 inch .325 chains from poulans I can convert for my 18" Husky 350.

 

[Huskybill]

Watch for sales and clearences on 25’ and 100’ rolls. I don’t see chain loops on sale since my wholesaler closed up shop. I just purchased two 3/8”/.050” full skip chisel 36” bar for $25 each.

 

[J D]

Huskys and Oregons is what I buy. They should match, right? Tie straps are Oregon.

I'm not sure who makes Huskys chain, so I'd be inclined to only mix the Oregon stuff. @Philbert may have some more insight, I believe he has quite the collection of presets & tie straps for the multitude of chains he works on

 

[J D]

My thoughts as well. Probably have 20 of various 20 inch .325 chains from poulans I can convert for my 18" Husky 350.

Or just put one of the 20" bars on the 350