Makita 6100. Is it still good for a gimpy old guy?

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I have a Dolmar 6100 also and can well attest to its ease of starting and smooth running, obviously good power and excellent filtration. You do however mention arthritis and joint pains so another saw that I think you should consider is the Dolmar 420 or 421, not sure what the Makita model is. Same easy start and smooth anti-vibe, just with a 42cc instead of the 60cc.
I have an old Shindaiwa 488 that's ridiculously easy to start, given that it doesn't have a primer bulb, decomp or spring-loaded starter. But it doesn't have the power to handle a bar & chain long enough to deal with the big old-growth oaks that have been blown down on my property the last few years. They aren't rotten. Just uprooted.

It would probably make more financial sense to let those big trees rot and just buy firewood, but it doesn't feel right.
 
As far as I can tell, the 6400-7900 series saws are completely different animals from the 6100, with nearly no interchangeable parts. Seems that the large frame Dolkitas require multiple good hard yanks to start. Much as I would like the power, I can't yank that hard any more without tearing more bits loose that will likely never heal. I would actually prefer a 70cc saw if I could start it without doing further irreparable damage to my shoulders. But I haven't found any easy-start big saws, so I'm looking at easy-start medium saws. I'm not sure how this thread turned into a discussion about a completely different class of saw.

Could you put a hole in the side of the saw and mount an impact driver, i.e. start it with a cordless impact driver? That's less impact on your arms.
 
Gravy, you might consider a Stihl MS170 or MS180 with easy start. I've had 4 or 5 of them over the years, and they are pretty nice saws for the money... and they do start easy.
 
I'm not actually looking at the 6400 series saws. They are downsized 7900s. The reason I asked about the 6100 is that it seems to be exceptionally easy to start, with a spring-loaded pull-start mechanism and an ignition coil that allegedly makes a good spark at low rpm, thus making it really easy to start, and might have the power to occasionally work with a 24 inch bar and skip chain so I can buck up the odd old-growth oak tree, even if it's a bit slow.

As far as I can tell, the 6400-7900 series saws are completely different animals from the 6100, with nearly no interchangeable parts. Seems that the large frame Dolkitas require multiple good hard yanks to start. Much as I would like the power, I can't yank that hard any more without tearing more bits loose that will likely never heal. I would actually prefer a 70cc saw if I could start it without doing further irreparable damage to my shoulders. But I haven't found any easy-start big saws, so I'm looking at easy-start medium saws. I'm not sure how this thread turned into a discussion about a completely different class of saw.

So, what do you folks think about the Makita 6100? Are there other comparable saws that have similar power and that can be started without tearing slow-healing shoulder bits? I maybe haven't previously mentioned it, but at age 66, I don't necessarily need a saw that will survive another 20 years of all day every day usage. I'm cutting firewood and maintaining 9 steep rocky acres.
Tell us about the wood you are cutting and how you would be using the saw, that would be easier.
 
I'm not actually looking at the 6400 series saws. They are downsized 7900s. The reason I asked about the 6100 is that it seems to be exceptionally easy to start, with a spring-loaded pull-start mechanism and an ignition coil that allegedly makes a good spark at low rpm, thus making it really easy to start, and might have the power to occasionally work with a 24 inch bar and skip chain so I can buck up the odd old-growth oak tree, even if it's a bit slow.

As far as I can tell, the 6400-7900 series saws are completely different animals from the 6100, with nearly no interchangeable parts. Seems that the large frame Dolkitas require multiple good hard yanks to start. Much as I would like the power, I can't yank that hard any more without tearing more bits loose that will likely never heal. I would actually prefer a 70cc saw if I could start it without doing further irreparable damage to my shoulders. But I haven't found any easy-start big saws, so I'm looking at easy-start medium saws. I'm not sure how this thread turned into a discussion about a completely different class of saw.

So, what do you folks think about the Makita 6100? Are there other comparable saws that have similar power and that can be started without tearing slow-healing shoulder bits? I maybe haven't previously mentioned it, but at age 66, I don't necessarily need a saw that will survive another 20 years of all day every day usage. I'm cutting firewood and maintaining 9 steep rocky acres.
I own a E 6100 and like it a lot. Easy access to the filter (which is huge and can be cleaned several times extending its use) and sprocket (be careful of the circlip that holds the sproket on! I took the sproket off and lost the circlip when it flew into the garage someplace. Replacements are available in the nuts and bolts section as it's a standard size) huge gas and oil capacity so it runs too long and I've put a 28" bar on mine that pulls a full chain in big green oak or full skip in dry w/o a problem with the oiler turned to high. It cuts green or very dry oak w/o strain greater in diameter than the bar length (two cuts) but now for the downsides.
It cost over $600 after shopping around when I bought it and the 28" bar and chain are an additional $100. It's a little heavier than a smaller saw but that's only when you have to carry it. Using it, the wood supports the saw. It comes with a 20" bar that is much shorter than the horse power it has would justify. It's now going to be hard to impossible to find parts, maybe. The gas tank is an integral part of the saws handle and bottom and is plastic. As a result I don't put it on the ground with my foot in the handle to start it when cold. I put it between my legs or alongside my leg for the first two pulls on choke. I don't find those two pulls easy but sometimes it starts on the second. If it doesn't you take the choke off but leave it at fast idle and it starts the next pull almost every time. It has a fuel pump bulb you have to press several times to get gas to the carb. I always drain my gas when being stored for awhile. I haven't had to replace the bulb yet but I bought several imprt bulbs for cheap and have them available. It's a great saw in my view,powerful but a little heavy and now obsolete. I'd try starting one before I bought one since ease of starting is so critical.013A9058-19FB-40F3-8DA2-3629F1189BA0.jpeg
 
Hello fellow californian @calamari
I have a ported 6100. Most powerful, easiest starting saw there is to my knowledge.
I wouldn't worry too much about parts availability for a while. I figure there are enough of them floating around to find parts from our fellow forum members.
Here is a video another fellow made.

 
Here is mine with factory square ground chain - this saw and chain combo is incredibly smooth in the cut.



I think my only complaint is the limited coil making it trickier to tune. Must tune in wood.
 
Hey Gravy, what type of wood are you cutting? How are you using the saw... felling and bucking or mostly firewood? The reason I ask is the new 50cc saws are truly the old 60-70cc... a jump in technology may be easier on you than a jump in ccs, and weight...
Most of my cutting is oak, with a bit of maple and other hardwoods. The 488 handles about 90 percent of my cutting, but I get enough trees that are too big for it that a more powerful saw makes sense.
 
I have a Dolmar 6100 also and can well attest to its ease of starting and smooth running, obviously good power and excellent filtration. You do however mention arthritis and joint pains so another saw that I think you should consider is the Dolmar 420 or 421, not sure what the Makita model is. Same easy start and smooth anti-vibe, just with a 42cc instead of the 60cc.
My current "big" saw is 50cc. I'm looking for something with considerably more power that can handle up to a 24" bar on occasion.
 
Hello fellow californian @calamari
I have a ported 6100. Most powerful, easiest starting saw there is to my knowledge.
I wouldn't worry too much about parts availability for a while. I figure there are enough of them floating around to find parts from our fellow forum members.
Here is a video another fellow made.


That video is what prompted me to look into a 6100.
 
I own a E 6100 and like it a lot. Easy access to the filter (which is huge and can be cleaned several times extending its use) and sprocket (be careful of the circlip that holds the sproket on! I took the sproket off and lost the circlip when it flew into the garage someplace. Replacements are available in the nuts and bolts section as it's a standard size) huge gas and oil capacity so it runs too long and I've put a 28" bar on mine that pulls a full chain in big green oak or full skip in dry w/o a problem with the oiler turned to high. It cuts green or very dry oak w/o strain greater in diameter than the bar length (two cuts) but now for the downsides.
It cost over $600 after shopping around when I bought it and the 28" bar and chain are an additional $100. It's a little heavier than a smaller saw but that's only when you have to carry it. Using it, the wood supports the saw. It comes with a 20" bar that is much shorter than the horse power it has would justify. It's now going to be hard to impossible to find parts, maybe. The gas tank is an integral part of the saws handle and bottom and is plastic. As a result I don't put it on the ground with my foot in the handle to start it when cold. I put it between my legs or alongside my leg for the first two pulls on choke. I don't find those two pulls easy but sometimes it starts on the second. If it doesn't you take the choke off but leave it at fast idle and it starts the next pull almost every time. It has a fuel pump bulb you have to press several times to get gas to the carb. I always drain my gas when being stored for awhile. I haven't had to replace the bulb yet but I bought several imprt bulbs for cheap and have them available. It's a great saw in my view,powerful but a little heavy and now obsolete. I'd try starting one before I bought one since ease of starting is so critical.View attachment 946562
I will definitely try before I buy. No point paying good money for a saw that I can't start without aggravating my injuries.
 
I will definitely try before I buy. No point paying good money for a saw that I can't start without aggravating my injuries.
Make sure it's a cold saw before you try starting it. The video of the little kids starting the saw is done with a saw at operating temp. For some reason it takes no effort when hot but feels like you're pulling through a lot of compression when cold. If you can have somebody else start it first thing when cold it won't be an issue when warm.
 
Make sure it's a cold saw before you try starting it. The video of the little kids starting the saw is done with a saw at operating temp. For some reason it takes no effort when hot but feels like you're pulling through a lot of compression when cold. If you can have somebody else start it first thing when cold it won't be an issue when warm.
That's a good point. I don't have anybody to cold start it for me.
 
That's an interesting thought. I have multiple cordless impacts.

The downside with the impact driver is you need to pull it off quickly, once the engine starts firing. You don't want the chainsaw to be throwing an impact driver at you. With good technique this is a reasonable thing to do. The YouTube channel "Project Farm" demonstrates the technique in many of their videos, on a lawnmower.

Another nice thing about using an impact driver is you don't have to torque it as hard as if you're rope-starting, since the impact driver can turn the engine over (albeit maybe more slowly) but many more times consecutively. So you get some benefit from the impact driver warming-up the engine for you.
 
The downside with the impact driver is you need to pull it off quickly, once the engine starts firing. You don't want the chainsaw to be throwing an impact driver at you. With good technique this is a reasonable thing to do. The YouTube channel "Project Farm" demonstrates the technique in many of their videos, on a lawnmower.

Another nice thing about using an impact driver is you don't have to torque it as hard as if you're rope-starting, since the impact driver can turn the engine over (albeit maybe more slowly) but many more times consecutively. So you get some benefit from the impact driver warming-up the engine for you.
This seems like a good possibility. Whether an impact driver, impact wrench, or drill (I have all three), it could be braced against the ground or a boot and spare the shoulders and wrists. I'm pretty sure I could get the timing right enough. OTOH, folks who haven't spent decades running power tools 50 hours a week probably shouldn't try this at home.
 
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