McCulloch Chain Saws

northwest saws

northwest saws

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Mar 8, 2016
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433
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north idaho
Someone alerted me to the availability of a McCulloch 99 in good condition so I made arrangements to have a look. After we came to an agreement the seller took me to a local implement dealer to see about getting a diaphragm. They did not have any diaphragms...but the owner was ready to sell off all of their remaining McCulloch & chainsaw stuff as they have been out of the saw business for a few years. I was so excited when I got home I forgot to take any photos of the saw.

View attachment 935124

I will be a few days getting it all sorted out and put away.

Mark
I'm excited for you! I'd be like a kid in a candy shop, or a lady in a shoe store......either or. Hope you came back with some good loot. Who knows maybe you'll find your diaphragm hiding in there? Let me know if you end up striking out there, I'm making one for my model 99 and could make another if needed.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Aug 25, 2017
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1,796
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Well guys,I picked up a 1-70 a couple of days ago on Feebay.I was watching one 1-70 go out of my range once again when I got an alert that another 1-70 had just been listed.The seller was asking $150 or MO,so I offered him $135 & he accepted it! He was in Pa.& I'm in N.Y.,so it only took 2 days for me to get it.
I thought I'd go through it & see if it had good compression & spark,but the starter wouldn't engage on the pawls.I thought maybe the pawls were seized up,but upon taking the recoil off I found it had no pawls at all,Lol. Lucky thing for me I have a parts 1-70 that's seized,but had a perfectly good clutch with pawls.Unfortunately I couldn't find my rope I use as a piston stop,& it was beginning to rain again,so called it quits for the day.I did find some starter ropes while going through my parts totes looking for some 10-10 choke rods,so I'll have a go at pulling the pawlless clutch tomorrow.I think someone had this poor saw half buried for a while - it was covered in oily dirt.No mag rot though that I could see.The manual oiler might take a little work to get it freed up too.The air filter was covered in oily dirt too,but on the upside,the air box is spotless.It came with what looked to be a 20 in.bar & .404 chain.I've seen 52 Oregon chain,but not familiar with 62 Oregon chain.I'll get pics of the saw on here ASAP.
 
Alaskan Stihl

Alaskan Stihl

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Jul 30, 2021
Messages
74
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Alaska
Grrrrrr…..
If it’s not one thing - it another…
So, I took the Wildcat (this is the one that I bought for $20 after someone poured Bar Oil in the fuel tank). Anyhow, I took it out for another spin today (limbing trees for firewood) and each time I start it up and run it….it starts and runs better than the last time! WAHOO! My Carb Kit came in yesterday, however, I have decided to continue to use it and see if any residuals get burned off. It appears Inam nearly there now.

THAT IS UNTIL…I pulled the ripcord for the next tree and now it won’t catch (something must have broke with the dogs or something). Groan….

To make matters worse, my Cork Fuel Cap Gaskets arrived for my McCulloch 10-10, so I figured I would simply slide the old one off and replace it…

Not so much…

My saw still has the ball chain keeper. It appears that it is riveted to the top of the cap and not sure how it’s connected at the other end. Does anyone have any tips on replacing the cork gasket without fouling up the keeper assembly???
 
Alaskan Stihl

Alaskan Stihl

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Messages
74
Location
Alaska
Ya know…I just thought about that! Maybe I could snip the chain somewhere in the center…and then put one of those double ballchain connectors to keep them attached after I swap out the gasket…
The wife said she has a few necklaces that have those types of clasps on them…
Well, one down…now on to the ripcord on the Wildcat….
 
Alaskan Stihl

Alaskan Stihl

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Jul 30, 2021
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74
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Alaska
Wildcat repaired….I think.
Ya know (and this is going to sound stupid I know) but I think that the reason the saw didn’t engage is possibly because I turned it off improperly. I am so use to just hitting the kill switch in Stihls that I tend to forget that you are supposed to pull the cord out while hitting the switch on McCullochs. The question is (brace yourself)…are you suppose to pull out the rip cord…and while extending it…then you hit the kill switch? Or, are you suppose to pull out the rip cord to about 6” and stop…then hit the kill switch?
 
vinnywv

vinnywv

Tinkerer
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Aug 24, 2015
Messages
828
Location
west virginia
Ive gotten in the habit of just pulling the cord out a few inches, 6 is fine, on all my saws i run. That would be sufficient. Just enough to allow the starter pawls to hit the recoil and not pop the handle off. I hsve had that happen a couple times.
 
ozziechainsaw

ozziechainsaw

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Feb 9, 2020
Messages
350
Location
Cairns Nth Qld Australia
Hi Guys,

Justin wanting some information if possible please.

Do all McCulloch 850 saws have a decomp Valve ? Mine does not and it looks like it never has had one. The hole is there, but it looks to be blocked off. I used torch and couldn't see anything down the hole. I am assuming that if it was supposed to have a decomp valve I should be able to see into the cylinder through the hole in the cylinder.

Also I need to get a carby kit for it, it is a Zama C2 on it, can anyone tell me the correct rebuild kit I will need ?

Also I noticed that there was a very small hole under the carby on top of the housing where the czrby bolts down , it looks like it would be the vaccum is pulled from to make the carby work. Am I correct ?

Cheers

Justin
 
Maintenance supervisor

Maintenance supervisor

Every 100yrs, All new people...
Joined
Feb 1, 2019
Messages
3,096
Location
South Carolina
Hi Guys,

Justin wanting some information if possible please.

Do all McCulloch 850 saws have a decomp Valve ? Mine does not and it looks like it never has had one. The hole is there, but it looks to be blocked off. I used torch and couldn't see anything down the hole. I am assuming that if it was supposed to have a decomp valve I should be able to see into the cylinder through the hole in the cylinder.

Also I need to get a carby kit for it, it is a Zama C2 on it, can anyone tell me the correct rebuild kit I will need ?

Also I noticed that there was a very small hole under the carby on top of the housing where the czrby bolts down , it looks like it would be the vaccum is pulled from to make the carby work. Am I correct ?

Cheers

Justin
Short of pictures, the decomp hole makes a 90° turn I believe ,and yes on the carby hole ,that should be your impulse port.
 
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

Don't forget about the alligators...
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
6,493
Location
Reportedly in the Area
My saw still has the ball chain keeper. It appears that it is riveted to the top of the cap and not sure how it’s connected at the other end. Does anyone have any tips on replacing the cork gasket without fouling up the keeper assembly???
The chain is simply attached to a retainer in the tank the can be worked up through the opening fairly easily if it hasn't gotten too brittle. In that case, a creative snip here and there should allow it to be removed and still serve its purpose afterward. The chain can also be removed at the cap by carefully pulling the rivet/pin that holds the retainer piece in place on the post. You will also find a duckbill tank vent assembly underneath the post that is notorious for deterioration and ultimately leaking fuel, too. If you bought your gasket(s) from ebay seller gotfishon, I've found it necessary to double them up on certain tank openings to get a non-leaking fit. If the cap is tight and you still have a fuel leak, it will likely be time to investigate the vent assembly. Lots of info and pics available on that subject should you need to go there.

1017211020a_HDR_resized.jpg
 
Jacob J.

Jacob J.

Tree Freak
Joined
Aug 26, 2001
Messages
17,465
Location
Oregon
Hey Guys -

I posted a review of the re-pop intake boots for CP-125, SP-105, and SP-125/125c that will soon be available from Traverse Creek. I installed one on a 125c I built a couple years ago and I'm
very happy with it. The texture and quality of the rubber seems excellent and the boot was easy to install and maintained its shape well. This is gonna be a great option for guys rebuilding the
CP/SP platform saws.

 
Jacob J.

Jacob J.

Tree Freak
Joined
Aug 26, 2001
Messages
17,465
Location
Oregon
I've seen guys make cobbled-together Mac intake boots out of anything you can imagine - cut-down Stihl 088 intake boots, heater hoses, deformed Stihl MS-660 boots - I even saw one once that
a guy made out of leather that he glued together and used pipe clamps on. The replacement part from The Duke I think is gonna be a winner. It cleanly snapped onto the intake manifold and after
installing on the tank, sealed up good between the tank and the manifold.



 
Jacob J.

Jacob J.

Tree Freak
Joined
Aug 26, 2001
Messages
17,465
Location
Oregon
You just need to swap over the spring and collars from the old boot and you'll be good to go.



There was a small run of re-pop boots (300) made by one of the Go-Kart guys in Ohio a few years ago and they literally sold out
in just a few days and the guy didn't even advertise them. I think this will be a good seller when Traverse Creek makes them available.

I plan on buying a few. Here's one on a runner:

 
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