I'm excited for you! I'd be like a kid in a candy shop, or a lady in a shoe store......either or. Hope you came back with some good loot. Who knows maybe you'll find your diaphragm hiding in there? Let me know if you end up striking out there, I'm making one for my model 99 and could make another if needed.Someone alerted me to the availability of a McCulloch 99 in good condition so I made arrangements to have a look. After we came to an agreement the seller took me to a local implement dealer to see about getting a diaphragm. They did not have any diaphragms...but the owner was ready to sell off all of their remaining McCulloch & chainsaw stuff as they have been out of the saw business for a few years. I was so excited when I got home I forgot to take any photos of the saw.
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I will be a few days getting it all sorted out and put away.
Short of pictures, the decomp hole makes a 90° turn I believe ,and yes on the carby hole ,that should be your impulse port.Hi Guys,
Justin wanting some information if possible please.
Do all McCulloch 850 saws have a decomp Valve ? Mine does not and it looks like it never has had one. The hole is there, but it looks to be blocked off. I used torch and couldn't see anything down the hole. I am assuming that if it was supposed to have a decomp valve I should be able to see into the cylinder through the hole in the cylinder.
Also I need to get a carby kit for it, it is a Zama C2 on it, can anyone tell me the correct rebuild kit I will need ?
Also I noticed that there was a very small hole under the carby on top of the housing where the czrby bolts down , it looks like it would be the vaccum is pulled from to make the carby work. Am I correct ?
The chain is simply attached to a retainer in the tank the can be worked up through the opening fairly easily if it hasn't gotten too brittle. In that case, a creative snip here and there should allow it to be removed and still serve its purpose afterward. The chain can also be removed at the cap by carefully pulling the rivet/pin that holds the retainer piece in place on the post. You will also find a duckbill tank vent assembly underneath the post that is notorious for deterioration and ultimately leaking fuel, too. If you bought your gasket(s) from ebay seller gotfishon, I've found it necessary to double them up on certain tank openings to get a non-leaking fit. If the cap is tight and you still have a fuel leak, it will likely be time to investigate the vent assembly. Lots of info and pics available on that subject should you need to go there.My saw still has the ball chain keeper. It appears that it is riveted to the top of the cap and not sure how it’s connected at the other end. Does anyone have any tips on replacing the cork gasket without fouling up the keeper assembly???