McCulloch Chain Saws

[Xpropane]

My buddy changed my mind for me, when he called and said we had some land clearing to do. Instead of tearing down the 700 I changed the tank gasket for the rubber style. put in a fresh carb kit. swapped out the drive sprocket for one off a 10-10, the one that came on the 700 was all chewed up.
I really wanted to see how it runs
Before a new piston and rings.
Oh yeah I give a colonoscopy first. I didn't see in score marks in the cylinder, so I thought why not give it a short run.
I took the 700 with a 28 " bar and new chain, plus a 10- 10 with a 16" new Chain.
I started out cutting with the 10- 10 cutting up limb wood. What a nice saw for this, really enjoyed it! Saw ran good. All it got was a new fuel tank gasket as well. No carb work, didn't touch check/ touch the points nothing just gas and go. The 700 ran ok the auto oiler doesn't seem to be working. I tightened up the new chain a few times I eventually wound up chewing up the drive sprocket myself. I believe this a result of too much slack in the chain. Not sure? But it cut and ran ok, and I could tell it had more ass than the 10-10.

 

[Xpropane]

I agree - Mark needs to write a Mac book!!!

I second that motion, I just started on this site, and feel the same way. With all the attachments and pictures and part #s he posted on my piston question about the same piston for 700 and 6-10.

 

[Xpropane]

Most parts are still available although real pistons are getting scarce, LRB offers a replacement. I'm going to put a saw together with one for a local tree service and put it to the test.

Mark

Curious about the test, are you putting your workmanship and the McCulloch brand up against modern day saws? What model saw are you building?
Eric R.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

He is - one post at a time.

Don't know if anyone else has noticed lately, but the McCulloch thread now has over 2 million views and over 43,000 posts -- a veritable encyclopedia of Mac information.

 

[heimannm]

600 Series McCulloch. A local tree service guy has several 600 Series saws that he uses on a regular basis and likes the way the work. I'll pick out something with a decent cylinder and install the Little Red Barn piston and see how it goes. The LRB replacement pistons have one thick ring, the early saws had two thick rings and later models had two thin rings. The piston I received came with INA bearings, I think the best course of action is to use an OEM wrist pin as the LRB wrist pins are notoriously small and don't have the interference fit needed to the connecting rod.

Mark

 

[Xpropane]

I want to get an answer from this giant encyclopedia. What is the benefit of using a hard nose bar. I have 2 of them that came on/ with saws. I have never used one.
Ps hop this isn't another can of worms.

 

[matt_lamb_160]

Interested in seeing the measured size difference between the original pin and the LRB replacement. I assume the pin bearings are stock size and there isn't a reason for their pins to be smaller (like the bearings have been replaced with a metric equivalent or something?)?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I want to get an answer from this giant encyclopedia. What is the benefit of using a hard nose bar. I have 2 of them that came on/ with saws. I have never used one.
Ps hop this isn't another can of worms.

Hard nose bars don't blow a sprocket nose, they're immune to clogging with chips,dust,dirt or old dried grease.
Some pulp wood cutters preferred them because of the abuse they can take.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

My buddy changed my mind for me, when he called and said we had some land clearing to do. Instead of tearing down the 700 I changed the tank gasket for the rubber style. put in a fresh carb kit. swapped out the drive sprocket for one off a 10-10, the one that came on the 700 was all chewed up.
I really wanted to see how it runs
Before a new piston and rings.
Oh yeah I give a colonoscopy first. I didn't see in score marks in the cylinder, so I thought why not give it a short run.
I took the 700 with a 28 " bar and new chain, plus a 10- 10 with a 16" new Chain.
I started out cutting with the 10- 10 cutting up limb wood. What a nice saw for this, really enjoyed it! Saw ran good. All it got was a new fuel tank gasket as well. No carb work, didn't touch check/ touch the points nothing just gas and go. The 700 ran ok the auto oiler doesn't seem to be working. I tightened up the new chain a few times I eventually wound up chewing up the drive sprocket myself. I believe this a result of too much slack in the chain. Not sure? But it cut and ran ok, and I could tell it had more ass than the 10-10.

A 28" in hardwood is pushing the limits of a 700, unless you're using skip tooth in my opinion.

 

[heimannm]

x - A hard nose bar is a good choice in dirty conditions as Maint Sup says. In the dirt, stumping, charred or fire damaged wood, skidded logs, etc...

On the other hand there is more drag pulling the chain around the nose and they are particularly bad for any situation that requires up cutting/cutting with the top of the bar. I haven't had much experience bore cutting with a hard nose bar but I suspect they would not work so well for that application, again due to the increased drag when you pull the chain around the nose.

If you use a hard nose bar, don't tighten the chain as much as you would with a sprocket nose bar and turn up the oiler if you can to help reduce friction.

Matt - I think whoever is making the pistons is accustomed to modern saw that use circlips to hold the wrist pin in place and simply don't understand that they need to be a press/interference fit in the connecting rod for the McCulloch applications. I don't remember if it was the 94130 for the 600 Series or the 85239 for the 70 cc saws but one (maybe both) have circlips included in the box even though there are no grooves for the circlips in the piston(s).

Mark

 

[Xpropane]

A 28" in hardwood is pushing the limits of a 700, unless you're using skip tooth in my opinion.

Agreed. That bar came with the purchase of the saw package. next size down that I have is a 18, and I ran that on the 10-10. I think all I need is a 20" bar for the 700.

 

[Xpropane]

x - A hard nose bar is a good choice in dirty conditions as Maint Sup says. In the dirt, stumping, charred or fire damaged wood, skidded logs, etc...

On the other hand there is more drag pulling the chain around the nose and they particularly bad for any situation that requires up cutting/cutting with the top of the bar. I haven't had much experience bore cutting with a hard nose bar but I suspect they would not work so well for that application, again due to the increased drag when you pull the chain around the nose.

If you use a hard nose bar, don't tighten the chain as much as you would with a sprocket nose bar and turn up the oiler if you can to help reduce friction.

Matt - I think whoever is making the pistons is accustomed to modern saw that use circlips to hold the wrist pin in place and simply don't understand that they need to be a press/interference fit in the connecting rod for the McCulloch applications. I don't remember if it was the 94130 for the 600 Series or the 85239 for the 70 cc saws but one (maybe both) have circlips included in the box even though there are no grooves for the circlips in the piston(s).

Mark

Thanks mark, it's like I have it why not use it? But first I need to get the oiler working.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What is the benefit of using a hard nose bar.

It doesn't care what pitch the chain is..., only the gauge.

But first I need to get the oiler working.

Yep.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

850 did great today. 700’s and the 051 did well also.
had an unexpected helper at the splitter.

32”

That bar is very nice man

 

[bob kern]

That bar is very nice man

Thanks. A nice fella that use to carry macs at his store dug it out of a closet for me. $20 nos
He was excited that there was an 850 getting put back to work.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Thanks. A nice fella that use to carry macs at his store dug it out of a closet for me. $20 nos
He was excited that there was an 850 getting put back to work.

20 bucks man what a score

Agreed. That bar came with the purchase of the saw package. next size down that I have is a 18, and I ran that on the 10-10. I think all I need is a 20" bar for the 700.

20s are a great size for the 700 probably my favourite

 

[bob kern]

20 bucks man what a score



20s are a great size for the 700 probably my favourite

I run either 20 or 24 on the 700’s. Think they would do a 28 well if needed. They are so dang strong.

 

[super44]

I run either 20 or 24 on the 700’s. Think they would do a 28 well if needed. They are so dang strong.

I run a 28 inch on a 700 it works plenty good.

 

[bob kern]

I helped a friend this weekend who has never ran a bigger saw. He has a troybilt 16” I gave him for little stuff but that’s all he’s ever ran I believe. He had a section of a maple fall and needed something a tad bigger so I took some saws down. He made the first cut with a 700 (after he went inside to get ear plugs lol) and said “ wow that’s a completely different saw altogether “

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I tightened up the new chain a few times I eventually wound up chewing up the drive sprocket myself.

Speaking of pitch, you may want to double check if the chain and sprocket are the correct match.