McCulloch Chain Saws

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Ranger-692 said:
Another question. I have a 7-10 style muffler on my 10 10/700 mystery machine that has both a baffle and a pretty restrictive spark arrestor. Do you guys remove these or maybe remove the baffle and leave the spark arrestor to run better/cooler? What’s the conventional wisdom here? Thanks!

Also any tips for removing the bolt that broke off in the nubbin on the cylinder that the top of the muffler anchors to through the baffle? Asking for a friend…
Click to expand...
So couple things, I tried an easy out and heat, snapped 1/4” of the easy out inside the hole so that’s that. Any other suggestions or just run it that way? I also have a PM700 that has the same bolt sheared off when I bought it, is that a common thing with that particular component in that spot? Frustrated and thought I’d ask you guys with tons of experience with these. Thanks!
 
RE: Bar rail closer - The material definitely springs back and I am sure you would need several different shims based on the gauge and manufacturer of the bar. The krinkle black McCulloch logo bars are pretty soft and don't spring so much, some of the older Oregon and General bars are really tough and would need a much smaller shim to take the spring into account. Working the screwdriver down the groove when necessary is not too bad of a job.

Ranger - If you are anywhere near Carpenter (WY) contact 3000FPS, I'll bet you could put a nut over broken bit and Roger could weld it to the nut and turn it out that way.

Mark
 
Ranger-692 said:
So couple things, I tried an easy out and heat, snapped 1/4” of the easy out inside the hole so that’s that. Any other suggestions or just run it that way? I also have a PM700 that has the same bolt sheared off when I bought it, is that a common thing with that particular component in that spot? Frustrated and thought I’d ask you guys with tons of experience with these. Thanks!
Click to expand...
If it is in aluminum you can use alum to dissolve the broken bolt or easy out
It takes a little time but works slick. You have to build a containment for the alum/water mix am aluminum can and silicon works
Google it or watch a utube for more details
 
North East Tennessee MAC Report

Beautiful day in North East Tennessee today. Temps low 20s to high 20s. No wind. Ground was too wet to get truck to falling site so I opted to lug the offbrand instead of the 800 the remaining 2/10 of a mile or so. Brian put his MACs to work bucking to log length my pile of stems at the bottom of the hill. After a bit of falling, I listened for the crackle of a MAC. Not hearing anything, I thought either Brian is taking it easy (he been rather sick the last few weeks) or he might be hurt so I made my way back down only to find him cutting a way with his PM805. I have had an 850 muffler duct on my 800 for so long, I had forgotten how quite (relatively speaking) the big muffler 82cc MACs are.

Brian hard at work.
IMG_6628-003.JPG
IMG_6631.JPG

I got out my PM700 to have some fun and to see what all the hoopla here lately is all about. I was pleasantly surprised by its performance. It was 40 years ago this month that I bought it new. I don't remember it cutting as well as it did today. Then I recalled that for it first 38 years or so I had depended upon the dealer to tune it. In the late 90s, no one would work on it for fear of breaking some NLA part (I was fooled) so I bought my first off-brand. Brian tuned the 700 about 2 years ago, but other than a tank or so, it had not been run after that and even longer before that. After talking to Brian today, I think the rings are just now loosing up from its long hybernation. Anyway, lot of fun and plenty of power especially when the kerf is closing on you.

To finish out the day, we took on the big ash with the green X on it by the wood pile. After some work I fired up the 800. With a less than ideal chain and having to hold the chain brake open, I struggled a bit with the cut, but all end up well. I managed to knock the throttle linkage off the trigger when I abandoned the 800 on my run from the stump so I dug the 700 out to buck the main stem and the right fork while Brian took on the left fork with his 805.

Ash.
IMG_6634-001.JPG

PM 700 trying to take credit for the PM800's work.
IMG_6637.JPG

Bar deep was no problem for the PM700.
IMG_6643.JPG

I am sure Brian will be sore tonight as he swung his MACs (PM1010S, PM800 & PM805) around quite a bit today. As always he goes above and beyond. He offered to work on the chain brake back at his shop and had brought a spare for me to use in the meantime. I turned him down as I want to whip my nemesis myself. As some know I have fought quick firing chain brakes for some time now.

Be safe,
Ron
 
I’ll have to consider that dissolving solution thanks.

One more question, looking to put a new 24 or 28” bar on my 700. What are the best options out there? Are there any Sugi or Tsumura bars that will fit a Mac? Thanks
 
Ranger-692 said:
I’ll have to consider that dissolving solution thanks.

One more question, looking to put a new 24 or 28” bar on my 700. What are the best options out there? Are there any Sugi or Tsumura bars that will fit a Mac? Thanks
Click to expand...
I’ve got a new Oregon bar and chain for a PM700 that was only used for one cut that I’d sell, if you’re interested.
 
rwoods said:
North East Tennessee MAC Report

Beautiful day in North East Tennessee today. Temps low 20s to high 20s. No wind. Ground was too wet to get truck to falling site so I opted to lug the offbrand instead of the 800 the remaining 2/10 of a mile or so. Brian put his MACs to work bucking to log length my pile of stems at the bottom of the hill. After a bit of falling, I listened for the crackle of a MAC. Not hearing anything, I thought either Brian is taking it easy (he been rather sick the last few weeks) or he might be hurt so I made my way back down only to find him cutting a way with his PM805. I have had an 850 muffler duct on my 800 for so long, I had forgotten how quite (relatively speaking) the big muffler 82cc MACs are.

Brian hard at work.
View attachment 958654
View attachment 958655

I got out my PM700 to have some fun and to see what all the hoopla here lately is all about. I was pleasantly surprised by its performance. It was 40 years ago this month that I bought it new. I don't remember it cutting as well as it did today. Then I recalled that for it first 38 years or so I had depended upon the dealer to tune it. In the late 90s, no one would work on it for fear of breaking some NLA part (I was fooled) so I bought my first off-brand. Brian tuned the 700 about 2 years ago, but other than a tank or so, it had not been run after that and even longer before that. After talking to Brian today, I think the rings are just now loosing up from its long hybernation. Anyway, lot of fun and plenty of power especially when the kerf is closing on you.

To finish out the day, we took on the big ash with the green X on it by the wood pile. After some work I fired up the 800. With a less than ideal chain and having to hold the chain brake open, I struggled a bit with the cut, but all end up well. I managed to knock the throttle linkage off the trigger when I abandoned the 800 on my run from the stump so I dug the 700 out to buck the main stem and the right fork while Brian took on the left fork with his 805.

Ash.
View attachment 958656

PM 700 trying to take credit for the PM800's work.
View attachment 958657

Bar deep was no problem for the PM700.
View attachment 958658

I am sure Brian will be sore tonight as he swung his MACs (PM1010S, PM800 & PM805) around quite a bit today. As always he goes above and beyond. He offered to work on the chain brake back at his shop and had brought a spare for me to use in the meantime. I turned him down as I want to whip my nemesis myself. As some know I have fought quick firing chain brakes for some time now.

Be safe,
Ron
Click to expand...
Ran one of my 700’s today. It saved the day so to speak as the two ash trunks I went after were a lot bigger than I remembered. The 034 or the 10-10 lightweight I took would have done it but neither had the 24” bar.
Did run that 10-10 lw on some other stuff as it had sat for a bit. She roared to life tho and slung ash chips everywhere!
 
heimannm said:
RE: Bar rail closer - The material definitely springs back and I am sure you would need several different shims based on the gauge and manufacturer of the bar. The krinkle black McCulloch logo bars are pretty soft and don't spring so much, some of the older Oregon and General bars are really tough and would need a much smaller shim to take the spring into account. Working the screwdriver down the groove when necessary is not too bad of a job.

Ranger - If you are anywhere near Carpenter (WY) contact 3000FPS, I'll bet you could put a nut over broken bit and Roger could weld it to the nut and turn it out that way.

Mark
Click to expand...
I was thinking more in the line of getting the rail straight, once straight then you can roll it to the right gauge. I have had bar rails that were not straight, kind of having a "S" in one or the other rail. This would get them parallel and straight before setting the gauge. If that makes sense.

Brian
 
bob kern said:
Ran one of my 700’s today. It saved the day so to speak as the two ash trunks I went after were a lot bigger than I remembered. The 034 or the 10-10 lightweight I took would have done it but neither had the 24” bar.
Did run that 10-10 lw on some other stuff as it had sat for a bit. She roared to life tho and slung ash chips everywhere!
Click to expand...
I also have a pro Mac 700 I bought new in 88. It’s been well taken care of and I run a 28” Tsumura bar that I modified to fit
 
rwoods said:
As some know I have fought quick firing chain brakes for some time now.
Click to expand...
The one on the 700 certainly seems to have become quite the challenge. I can't recall specifically which pin is the problem, but I know you've tried quite a few remedies with mixed results on whichever one it is. I'm also pretty foggy on what types of fixes you've actually tried.

10 Series Chain Brake Assy..jpg
​
Since the problem seems to be a quick trigger on the spring, I'm guessing it's either pin #4 or pin #7, or the latch itself. It also seems that there's gotta be excessive wear either on the latch, the pins, or the housing hole(s), (or all of the above), to permit enough slop for the spring to release so easily. The latch should be easy enough to compare with another one, which I'm sure you've already done. If you've deemed the latch in good condition, that leaves possible fitment issues with the pins and the housing, or less likely, maybe even the spring or the band. If pin fitment is the problem, (and I seem to recall it is), and you've tried everything to tighten things up, (which I seem to recall you have), have you considered oversized roll pins (or dowel) with some serious heat to the housing and handle to install them? May need to adjust the shape of the latch slightly to compensate for the small increase in pin diameter. Maybe not. You would at least have the pin fitment issue covered enough to see if it makes a difference..., maybe even hold up for awhile. A spring or band issue would seem easily identified just by visual inspection..., which I'm sure you've covered by now. Just thinkin' out loud on a snowy day in Ohio.

On the other hand, you could just take Brian's advice and replace the whole thing and be done with it!
 
Poge,
It is pin #7. When it is loose then the latch doesn't hold very well. I dinged the pin shaft up this last go around. It held for a while. I am going to try the adhesive approach recommend some posts back.

It is only the 800 and newer covers that I have had this problem. The old 700 works fine.

Thanks,
Ron
 
I got an old Mac 250, 60085 serial # if that helps for some reason...

It's got the .404 sprocket, but can't find a bar for it anywhere.

So I want to swap the sprocket for a 3/8,

Which sprockets would you go with?

Thanks,
Mad3400
IMG_20220123_105347312_HDR.jpgIMG_20220123_105356882_HDR.jpg
 
Mad3400 said:
I got an old Mac 250, 60085 serial # if that helps for some reason...

It's got the .404 sprocket, but can't find a bar for it anywhere.

So I want to swap the sprocket for a 3/8,

Which sprockets would you go with?

Thanks,
Mad3400
View attachment 958847View attachment 958846
Click to expand...
I bought some Oregon kits for mine, the Oregon p/n for the rim kits is 10608.
 

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