I was going through my Walbro SDC37 carbs yesterday & noticed that one of them had a buggered up throttle return spring.I had to take the throttle shaft out to get the spring straightened out somewhat & "operational" again.The problem is that now the excess spring sticks up too high & will most likely cause leaking issues with the gasket.I found the Waibro part # is 98-235-7,but can't find one anywhere on the web within reason.(I refuse to pay $5 + shipping for a 75 cent spring,yeah,call me cheap).Can anyone point me in the right direction?I'll try VE Petersen,but I need a minimum of $25 to place an order there.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I'd say something was cocking the crank to the point of locking up like that, not compressing the bearings.
The case would expand with heat anyway, not contract.
The case would expand with heat anyway, not contract.
Does anyone have a Mcculloch bar ID chart for DL’s off of a P/N 91284 RM , would be appreciated.
The 1994/95 McCulloch Accessories Catalog says 106 DL with a 3/8 sprocket nose.
Mark
Mark
Thanks Mark , much appreciated, kinda knew you were the go to
Got a measurement. Used a dial caliper and measured many times. From oil tank to bearing housing across the bar studs. The distance on the cp55 tank is 3.442. However, its kinda moot because i have 3 tanks and the overall length of the tanks is different on all 3. So that distance is going to vary on all 3. I dont know what it is but that crankshaft and bearings in that tank wasnt working but in another tank was fine. Even his original tank is a different overall length from the others. It did make a difference if the 4 bolts in the oil tank were not as tight as id like. It was ok then but as soon as i tightened them it was too much. Dont think it was loose but just not as tight as i like them . That extra 1/4 turn was too much. It also appeared to be the pto bearing. I could tighten the flywheel side and i was ok. As soon as i tightened the other it was hitting the brakes. The other 54cc tank....no issue. It was clean also. Odd one for sure.
newbomb
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I have a PM805 I am rebuilding, and I noticed the crank is not centered. I can guarantee it ran like this for years and years. This doesn't seem normal to me. Should I straighten this up by pressing in the main crank bearing. Probably going to replace the seal anyway. There is a decent sized lip on the other side too.
Just wondering if there was some reason for being like this?
Just wondering if there was some reason for being like this?
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The flywheel side bearing should be pressed up tight to the crankshaft to properly position it in the crankcase.
On the PTO side, there is a dowel pin that keeps the bearing insert (aluminum sleeve) in the proper location but since it is a needle bearing it really doesn't have any impact on the position of the crankshaft.
Mark
On the PTO side, there is a dowel pin that keeps the bearing insert (aluminum sleeve) in the proper location but since it is a needle bearing it really doesn't have any impact on the position of the crankshaft.
Mark
So much for my bad switch theory.The saw will become a parts saw,not that there's much in the way of useful parts - clutch,starter,one bar plate,oil pumps,flywheel,points & condenser,not sure about the coil,handle,& fuel tank.The piston & rings & cylinder are good,but not sure about the rest of the engine.
Beat me to it mark. If that bearing is not tight put it in a vice vertically with the bottom counterweight agianst the top of the jaws of a vice. Then find the right sized deepwell socket that slides over the crankshaft amd smack it with a hammer until its tight against the top counterweight. If the bearing is tight against it there is nothing you can do about it.
Thats a real mystery Vinny , it would definitely have gotten my goat.
I was looking over my Walbro SDC37 carbs yesterday & noticed that on one of them the throttle return spring was buggered up.I got it straightened out somewhat & it seems to be working OK,but it's sticking up too far & I think it may create a problem with the gasket.I found the Walbro part # - 98-235-7,McCulloch part # 85981.I've looked all over the web & can't find a reasonably priced one (I refuse to pay $5 for a 75 cent spring,yeah I'm cheap).My next option is to give VE Petersen a call,but I believe the minimum order there is $25.I don't have any "junk" SDC carbs with the spring on that I could pilfer from.
I’m still interested in the NOS piston kit and muffler assembly for my Mcculloch Titan 70. Where do I go from here? Help please! Thanks!
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Mark
Mark
Ed - post a photo of the spring you need, on or off the carburetor doesn't matter. I went through a bunch of torsion springs last week in the stuff I got from Woody.
Mark
Mark
I was going to suggest a close inspection there. A lot more slop for things to get misaligned or deformed than with a deep groove ball bearing. A lot less axial strength as well. The fact that it is playing nice with the current tank may just be temporary luck.
The bearing itself may deserve further examination unless you have already ruled it out. "Appeared to be the pto bearing" doesn't sound very conclusive.
If the dowel pin was not pefectly aligned with the holes in the tank or the insert they could certainly put some bind on the needle bearing. I have run into that a time or two...thought I had an insert on hand with a severe dimple from the dowel pin but I don't see it in the drawer.
![20230327_094921[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/754/754100-990dd485f4f9cb4f5708a47e89d51d33.jpg "20230327_094921[1].jpg")
Mark
Mark
Here ya go Mark.If you need a better pic I can take it apart again although it's a major PITA.Let me know.
I went to pick up the carb & saw that the spring had popped off the tab that's supposed to hold it in place.I bent it onto the tab for the pic.
There's a pic of the spring on Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair.
I went to pick up the carb & saw that the spring had popped off the tab that's supposed to hold it in place.I bent it onto the tab for the pic.
There's a pic of the spring on Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair.
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I think this is what you need.
Mark
Mark
Here's a new to me, I have had rhp before but not a Super 2-10. Looks to have a MUFFLER MOD already.
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