McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's

[LMU67]

When firing up a saw (new to me) that hasn't run in a month or so (which I'll be doing tomorrow) can I rely on the automatic pump or should I hand-lube the chain and bar sprocket first?

 

[heimannm]

What saw? Many of the small saws (PM6, Mini Mac, 300 Series) have a manual assist in addition to the automatic plumps. In that case you can prime the system using the manual pump.

Mark

 

[LMU67]

What saw? Many of the small saws (PM6, Mini Mac, 300 Series) have a manual assist in addition to the automatic plumps. In that case you can prime the system using the manual pump.

Mark

3516AV, no manual assist.

 

[heimannm]

If you are concerned about it, run it for a minute with the bar and chain removed so you can verify that it is pumping oil. Those particular models has plastic gears on the oil pump and they are pretty fragile so make sure you use a light weight bar oil in cooler temperatures. If the pump is working correctly, mount the bar and chain and go to work.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

The E.B.2.1 is getting the better of me.Today I had a little extra time after fiddling with 2 other saws,so I put the new O ring in the pump's base & the new parts that Mark sent to me a while back.Tomorrow I'll put a new oil line in,just in case there's a hairline crack in it somewhere.If that doesn't solve the problem,the only other thing I can think of is to prime the manual oiler with a light oil,that O ring may be worn.If that doesn't solve the problem it goes to the scrap yard.

 

[edju1958]

I have thrown in the towel on this little POS.Yesterday I took the oil pump off again to make sure everything was in order & it was.I pulled the line out of the tank & thought I'd found the problem.Someone had put a fuel filter on in pl;ace of the oil pick up.I put an oil pick up on from a Homelite XL & the saw will still not pump oil manually.I've come to the conclusion that this is only good for parts - clutch,chain brake,muffler,recoil,brake lever,ignition coil/module.I can't even use the engine because the oil pump attaches to it.What a POS!

 

[gumneck]

How nutz is this ? I picked this up off the wife's FB account yday only because I knew @MacAttack would love it. Asked 70, offered 35, now I gotta dismantle it. Compression feels really tight.
It looks nearly new or lightly used. Poured fuel in it and 15 seconds later you can see the results on the cardboard.

 

[heimannm]

The Mini Mac 6 is the most challenging of the models, when you disassemble the saw you have to orient the fins on the flywheel to pass by the starter clutch as you pull the engine out of the housing. Most likely issue on the fuel leak is a shrunken fuel line where it fit in the fuel tank, those models had a molded "bulb" on the end of the fuel line. I am pretty sure the later style fittings with an o-ring can be used in place of the old, molded line.

Another possibility is the tank is leaking at the seam, I have run into that a number of times on the Mini Mac saws.

Be sure you are in the right state of mind before you start working on that saw, they will try your patience.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

P.S. - Your saw appears to have 1/4" pitch chain, good news is I have a great stock of clutch drums and 1/4" pitch chain loops available.

Mark

 

[MacAttack]

How nutz is this ? I picked this up off the wife's FB account yday only because I knew @MacAttack would love it. Asked 70, offered 35, now I gotta dismantle it. Compression feels really tight.View attachment 1061534View attachment 1061535View attachment 1061536View attachment 1061537View attachment 1061538
It looks nearly new or lightly used. Poured fuel in it and 15 seconds later you can see the results on the cardboard.

That's a beauty!

The fuel lines like to crack and leak where they attach to the carb, the older fuel lines stink to replace because they're basically 1/8 on the tank end and something like 3/16 - 1/4 on the carb end.
My MM6 also has 1/4 chain, but I have that stubby little 10" bar on mine.

 

[gumneck]

@MacAttack I knew you'd appreciate it!!
It might be getting to next level when you find the reason to buy a saw is b/c someone on the site likes it.

 

[edju1958]

I've got a pair of 3816s that I dug out of mothballs for a change up.I took the carb off the one with no spark & put it on the saw that has spark & got nowhere.I rebuilt the carb,but it was a kit that had an acetate diaphragm,I absolutely hate them.The saw would start & run till the fuel ran out,then it'd just die & that was that.It has new fuel lines & primer bulb,new fuel filter.I had it running like a champ about 4-5 yrs.ago & I went to shut it off & it didn't.I pulled it apart to find the switch wire was disconnected from the coil.I plugged it back on & the saw would only run on a prime after that..I've come to the conclusion that any Mac saw under 54cc isn't worth a ****.So what do I do?I go & buy a 3200 for $27.I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.

 

[FixIt20]

I have a Mac 130 that doesn't seem to have spark and was just wondering if there is a good way to check the coil and condenser for failure.
Is there a resistance spec for the coil? How do I test the condenser?

 

[edju1958]

I got the 3200 today & it's in really good shape except for the rotted fuel lines & primer bulb.I put some fuel in the cylinder & a little more in the carb.The saw started & throttled up nicely till the fuel was gone.I'm having a helluva time with one of the fuel lines going into the tank.One I can get in without a problem,but the other return line is a real biotch.Do I just stick the return line into the tank a ways & hope it doesn't leak?I've never seen a company make a square hole for a round fuel line,but Mac did.

 

[heimannm]

Ed - It works best to take the flywheel side cover off the saw so you can route the line through the housing and down into the tank.

Fixit - The MM130 is a points ignition saw. Coil resistance should be around 1 ohm on the primary winding and 7.5 - 8.5 K ohm on the secondary. Test the condenser by setting your ohmmeter on the highest setting and alternately switch the red and black leads from the case to the wire and vice versa. It should read as open (no conductivity) but when you switch the red and black leads you should see a slight "blip" of the meter. The battery in the meter is putting a small charge in the condenser, when you switch leads the blip of the meter is the condenser discharging back through the meter.

Mark

 

[FixIt20]

Thanks Mark. I'll give that a try. Just to make sure I'm testing from the right points on the coil, the spark plug wire to the iron is the secondary and the wire out of the coil to the iron is the primary?

 

[heimannm]

The lead to the points is the primary, the one connected to the laminations is ground and is common to both the primary and secondary windings.



Mark

 

[FixIt20]

Thank you! Ends up it has spark after all, which is a huge plus.

 

[heimannm]

They do seem to run better with a spark...

Mark

 

[edju1958]

About a week ago an old friend dropped off a PM6.Whoever had the saw previously put the chain on backwards & it sat for at least 30 yrs.I know this because the chain was rusted & seized in place.It was also stored with old fuel in it.Surprisingly it still has good spark & I got it to fire on a prime.After pulling the recoil/fuel tank assembly off I found that the "fuel line" is cracked.Those fuel lines are obsolete.The last time I saw one on feebay the seller was asking $75.Fortunately for me I got one from Bob J.in my last purchase from him.My question is:how on God's green earth do I replace it?There's no room to get my hand or fingers in the fuel tank to work the new fuel line in place.