Here is the only help McCulloch offered on the topic Ed.
Mark
Mark
McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's
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I want the engineer who had his head up his keister when he devised this set up to show me how it's done.Now I know why Bob J.was selling the entire recoil/fuel tank assembly instead of just the fuel line.
I pulled the fuel line out along with the wicking filter.Part of the fuel line had broken off in the filter & I sat there looking at it & decided to try something outside the box.I hope this works - the line was still good,so I plugged a small fuel filter into it & it fit quite well.Next was trying to get the fuel line back in place in the fuel tank.I used a piece of fencing wire & stuck it up through the hole for the fuel line & inserted the wire into the fuel line.Then I fished it gently into place & grabbed the fuel line with a needle nose pliers & pulled it into place.I'll see how & if this works,I don't see why it won't.
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Interesing approach Ed. Let us know how it works.
I have found a couple of 007 o-rings over the fuel fitting with help snug it in the tank and make a nice seal to the carburetor if it tends to leak a bit.
Mark
I have found a couple of 007 o-rings over the fuel fitting with help snug it in the tank and make a nice seal to the carburetor if it tends to leak a bit.
Mark
I had a bit of good fortune today.I went to the garage to fish out a 10-10 so I could test some coils & ended up finding my original E.B.2.1 that had a non-oiling issue.First I wanted to see if it'd start,been sitting for almost 2 yrs.I had to prime it about 3 times,but finally it took off.I shut it down & pulled the oil tank off & found the culprit.Apparently the last time I worked on it I screwed up.I forgot to shove the oil line back into the tank after hooking the oil line onto the pump.That resulted in a kinked line.I was going to pull the oil tank off the other 2.1 that I had non-oiling issues with back in the winter,but couldn't find the damn saw.I ended up using a tank & line off a non-running 2.3 that has little compression.I put that on the 2.1 & it oils quite well now.I just love that little saw for limbing.
What size oil line does the E.B.2.1 use?There's a possibility that the other E.B.2.1 may still have a shot
Ed - I have some notes that say 3/32 x 3/16 hose that is 7-3/4" overall length with 3-1/8" extending from the oil tank. This leaves enough to make the connection at the pump, but not so long that it will form a kink. There was supposed to be a spring inside that oil line, PN93998 to keep it from kinking. In fact, someone ordered a couple of them from me this week already.
Mark
Mark
Thanks Mark,I have that line here,but it seems to be a bit smaller in diameter than the line that was in it As for the spring,I have a couple here that I got from you in past orders.Does the spring go on the inside of the tank or on the outside of the tank?On the saw that gave me a hard time over the winter,the spring is in the line on the inside of the tank.Whoever was in the saw had put a fuel filter on the oil line,I changed that to a Homelite oil pick up as that's all I had available.I thought the spring was to prevent the line from collapsing.
The spring goes in the part of the line outside to tank to prevent it from kinking when you move the tank into position.
Mark
Mark
Today I got back to the PM6.I thought I'd check the oiler to see if it worked before I went any further.I put winter grade bar oil in it & it wouldn't pump oil.I drained it out & put kerosene in & that got it going.Next I pulled the coil & carb & rebuilt the carb.Those MDC carbs are probably the worst carb to work on next to a Tilly HK IMO.Now I gotta pop the FW off so I have enough room to maneuver the carb into position to hook the linkage back on.If they'd have made the saw just a bit bigger so one could work on it comfortably that would've been great.So what if the saw weighed 7 lbs.instead of 6 lbs.It could've been a PM7 & it would've still been the world's lightest chainsaw!
On another note,I bought a genuine OEM Walbro K1-MDC kit on feebay & only got half a kit.It was missing the fuel pump diaphragm & the metering side gasket.Needless to say I contacted the seller about it.
On another note,I bought a genuine OEM Walbro K1-MDC kit on feebay & only got half a kit.It was missing the fuel pump diaphragm & the metering side gasket.Needless to say I contacted the seller about it.
I've been working on a 3200 on & off for the past few weeks.The other day I put the carb on & fueled it up only to find it leaking fuel.I've concluded there's a crack in the fuel tank.Is this a common thing or more of a rarity?Also,is there anything out there to seal the tank like RedKote does for the metal tanks?If not,I have a 3216 that has a bad engine,so it may be worth it to just do some swapping.
Ed - The IPL describes both fittings as MC-322182, if you have another parts saw on hand you may be able to move the fitting from one pump to another.
Mark
Mark
Back to the non-oiling E.B.2.1 (I must be a glutton for punishment).I have an E.B.2.3 that I've been using for parts,so today I checked the oil pump & it worked just fine.I pulled the pump out of the 2.3 & put it in the 2.1 & still it refuses to oil.I put the pump from the 2.1 in the 2.3 & it wouldn't work either,but that was no surprise to me.I'm beginning to think that there's a crack in the casting where the pump sits whichj is causing it to suck air.When I removed the pump from the 2.1 there was oil at the base of the pump.It'll be interesting to see if I put the original pump back in the 2.3 if it'll oil again.This is really giving me fits.
Finally a bit of light at the end of the tunnel for the non-oiling E.B.2.1.I pulled a PM310 apart figuring I could use the pump on the 2.1,but I never got that far.I pulled the oil rod that goes into the pump off & compared it to the rod on the 310.It was significantly shorter - 1/2 in.I noticed that when I pushed on the oiler button that it wasn't depressing down far enough compared to the oil buttons on the 2.3 & the 310.When I pushed down on the oil rod as it goes into the pump I could definitely hear pumping action going on.The part # for the oil rod is 94540 on both the 2.1 & the 310.I can't understand how & why the oil rod is shorter on the 2.1.Now here's the kicker - I swapped the working oil pump off the 2.3 onto the 2.1 & had no luck,so I swapped it back onto the 2.3 & now the 2.3 refuses to oil.I have no idea what I'm doing wrong.I made sure the O ring was in place.
Ed - you can test the automatic pumps off the saw by working the piston manually and watching oil go down the inlet and back up the outlet. If that doesn't happen then the internal check valve is stuck. You can often free them up with a bit of carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner down the hole with the piston removed.
On the 300 Series saws there is (supposed to be) a check valve disk under the 90 degree fitting at the front of the pump. The fitting is a press fit and they do sometimes come off unintentionally, perhaps the disk is missing. I've got a few spare of the disk and the fitting just in case...
Mark
On the 300 Series saws there is (supposed to be) a check valve disk under the 90 degree fitting at the front of the pump. The fitting is a press fit and they do sometimes come off unintentionally, perhaps the disk is missing. I've got a few spare of the disk and the fitting just in case...
Mark
Mark,I'm trying to get the manual oiler to work.The pump on the 310 looks to be identical to the pump on the 2.1 & 2.3,only difference is the color of the pump.
If the internal check valve for the automatic pump is not working, the manual pump will not work either since the path for the oil is the same. In fact, both check valves have to function in order for either pump to work as expected. Think of the disk as the inlet check valve that only allows oil into the pump, and the ball & spring as the outlet check valve that only allows oil to flow out of the pump.
Mark
Mark
Mark,I highly doubt it could be the check valves.If you remember I bought a new pump body & innards for it back a couple of months ago.
