More oil please (MS362)

[lamby66]

I replaced the oiler on my MS362 with one from a 460 that I purchased used. This oiler is better than that from the original model, but still stingy in my eyes. Wide open, I am using about 7/8 of a tank of oil to a full tank of mix. I would really like to use this much oil with my 20" bar and use about a 7/8 of oil to 3/4 a tank of mix with my 25" bar ( I am old school and like to see oil on my bar and chain, and like to see the oil lines on a stump if I run it to test).

For those of you that have also upgraded their 362/460 saws, did the HO control bolt (1128-647-4803) alone add much oil on top of the standard 460 oiler? Should I just bite the bullet and get the control bolt AND the HO piston as well?
I ask only because I am cheap and would rather not spend money on the piston if I dont need it. The control bolt is like 10 bucks and the piston is almost $50!

 

[Andyshine77]

How many hours are on the saw? If she has a lot of hours pull the oil strainer and clean it out and flush the oil line, as I've seen them packed with fines before.

Upgrading bolt and piston will drain the oil thank before the fuel, so it will definitely help.

That all said if you have a good sharp chain the factory setup is fine up to a 24" bar in hardwood, in softwood you could even run a 28" bar just fine. Really you don't need oil slinging all over the place to have proper lubrication, if the chain isn't binding in you're not overheating the bar you're fine.[emoji111]

 

[lamby66]

How many hours are on the saw? If she has a lot of hours pull the oil strainer and clean it out and flush the oil line, as I've seen them packed with fines before.

Upgrading bolt and piston will drain the oil thank before the fuel, so it will definitely help.

That all said if you have a good sharp chain the factory setup is fine up to a 24" bar in hardwood, in softwood you could even run a 28" bar just fine. Really you don't need oil slinging all over the place to have proper lubrication, if the chain isn't binding in you're not overheating the bar you're fine.[emoji111]

I am not sure on how many hours as I bought it used, but it is in great shape and was used by a homeowner to clear a couple fallen trees before I bought it and I have not used it much myself. maybe 15-20 hours on it since I bought it. The oil strainer is clean as is the rest of the oil path.

I as sure the people at Stihl know more than I do as far as what is required to lubricate a saw with modern bar oils (I used to run straight 30 weight back in the day) I just know the 25" bar got hot as hell after about 20 cuts or so and I rather save my equipment over the environment (which I am sure is why chainsaws oil less then they used to)

 

[Andyshine77]

The bar shouldn't get that hot even with the stock oiler. Take no offense, but I would be focused on getting your chains good before messing with the oiler, as it sounds like that's likely where the problem is. A properly sharpened chain is about the most important thing when operating a chainsaw.

 

[ammoaddict]

I replaced the oiler on my MS362 with one from a 460 that I purchased used. This oiler is better than that from the original model, but still stingy in my eyes. Wide open, I am using about 7/8 of a tank of oil to a full tank of mix. I would really like to use this much oil with my 20" bar and use about a 7/8 of oil to 3/4 a tank of mix with my 25" bar ( I am old school and like to see oil on my bar and chain, and like to see the oil lines on a stump if I run it to test).

For those of you that have also upgraded their 362/460 saws, did the HO control bolt (1128-647-4803) alone add much oil on top of the standard 460 oiler? Should I just bite the bullet and get the control bolt AND the HO piston as well?
I ask only because I am cheap and would rather not spend money on the piston if I dont need it. The control bolt is like 10 bucks and the piston is almost $50!

You could open up the oiler hole in the bar a little with a Dremel or drill bit. I've done this on a couple bars. Just don't go crazy and make it too big or it will clog easier.

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[bwalker]

I replaced the oiler on my MS362 with one from a 460 that I purchased used. This oiler is better than that from the original model, but still stingy in my eyes. Wide open, I am using about 7/8 of a tank of oil to a full tank of mix. I would really like to use this much oil with my 20" bar and use about a 7/8 of oil to 3/4 a tank of mix with my 25" bar ( I am old school and like to see oil on my bar and chain, and like to see the oil lines on a stump if I run it to test).

For those of you that have also upgraded their 362/460 saws, did the HO control bolt (1128-647-4803) alone add much oil on top of the standard 460 oiler? Should I just bite the bullet and get the control bolt AND the HO piston as well?
I ask only because I am cheap and would rather not spend money on the piston if I dont need it. The control bolt is like 10 bucks and the piston is almost $50!

I have added the control bolt and piston to a 361. It oils very well now. I am not sure just the bolt will do much without the HO piston.
I also believe there are a few threads on modifying your original parts.
I bought a control bolt and piston this spring and don't recall paying anywhere near $50 for the piston.

 

[Canyon Angler]

I had the oiler replaced twice in my 361 under warranty before I finally gave up on the stupid thing. It uses maybe 1/4 or 1/5 of a tank of oil per tank of fuel. I'd be delighted if it pumped 7/8 of a tank of oil per tank of fuel! I'd rather run out of fuel before I ran out of oil...that way you're kind of forced to check/top off the oil...

 

[lamby66]

I had the oiler replaced twice in my 361 under warranty before I finally gave up on the stupid thing. It uses maybe 1/4 or 1/5 of a tank of oil per tank of fuel. I'd be delighted if it pumped 7/8 of a tank of oil per tank of fuel! I'd rather run out of fuel before I ran out of oil...that way you're kind of forced to check/top off the oil...

I hear you. That's why I already upgraded to the 460 oiler.. I am now thinking of upgrading to the 460r oiler. Just wanted to see if I needed the piston as well as the bolt.

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[bwalker]

I hear you. That's why I already upgraded to the 460 oiler.. I am now thinking of upgrading to the 460r oiler. Just wanted to see if I needed the piston as well as the bolt.

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I believe, but am not certain the 460 and 362 stock oilers are the same. The 460R is the high output version

 

[lamby66]

The 360,460 and 460r oilers are the same but each have bifferent guts.. Someone posted how much oil each moves but I am not sure the numbers.. I think it's like 15cc 18cc and 24cc but again I am not positive on those numbers

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[CNYCountry]

That all said if you have a good sharp chain the factory setup is fine up to a 24" bar in hardwood, in softwood you could even run a 28" bar just fine. Really you don't need oil slinging all over the place to have proper lubrication, if the chain isn't binding in you're not overheating the bar you're fine.[emoji111]

With all due respect, and I know you're one of the people on here who really knows their stuff, but do you mean that a 362 will pull a 24" or 28" bar? My experience with my 361 was that I had a 24" for just occasional use and it was not happy at all with very sharp full house full chisel chain unless the rakers were so high it was barely taking any chip... Even in hemlock, with the rakers set to .025 with a gauge-it. And this isn't a weak saw, it runs happy with a 20" buried in hardwood. The 24" is now used with my 661. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

 

[lamby66]

With all due respect, and I know you're one of the people on here who really knows their stuff, but do you mean that a 362 will pull a 24" or 28" bar? My experience with my 361 was that I had a 24" for just occasional use and it was not happy at all with very sharp full house full chisel chain unless the rakers were so high it was barely taking any chip... Even in hemlock, with the rakers set to .025 with a gauge-it. And this isn't a weak saw, it runs happy with a 20" buried in hardwood. The 24" is now used with my 661. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

I am FAR from one of the knowledgeable ones here, but I keep trying to learn more.
I ran the tsumara 24" bar on my 362 cm without any issues at all (except the lower than I would like oil amount) I was cutting pine, cottonwood, and box elder with it. I think the largest diameter log I was cutting was close to 22" but most were under 20" so not completely buried in the cut. I was running a 33RM chain like I always do (I like durability more than speed). I also run my 20" bar for clean up work like stumps and branches running a 33RD chain.

The 362 is not a beast, but it has more than enough power for an occasional user to spin a 24" chain

 

[ericm979]

My 362CM will pull a buried 24" bar with full complement chain but it's slow and could use more oil. A 28" might pull ok with skip chain but it will cut even slower and be even lighter on the oil. I think if you're doing a lot of that you need a bigger saw.

 

[bwalker]

My 362CM will pull a buried 24" bar with full complement chain but it's slow and could use more oil. A 28" might pull ok with skip chain but it will cut even slower and be even lighter on the oil. I think if you're doing a lot of that you need a bigger saw.

That would depend on what your cutting. If you are cutting eastern hard woods you are right. In western softwood a 60cc will pull a 24" bar just fine and a 28" ok too.

 

[Andyshine77]

With all due respect, and I know you're one of the people on here who really knows their stuff, but do you mean that a 362 will pull a 24" or 28" bar? My experience with my 361 was that I had a 24" for just occasional use and it was not happy at all with very sharp full house full chisel chain unless the rakers were so high it was barely taking any chip... Even in hemlock, with the rakers set to .025 with a gauge-it. And this isn't a weak saw, it runs happy with a 20" buried in hardwood. The 24" is now used with my 661. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

24" is perfectly fine on any 60cc saw unless something is wrong, though I prefer 20" myself. 28" works, but it's not optimal on the 361, the AV springs are a bit too soft and the 361 lacks grunt. That said yes the 361 can pull a 28" bar, especially in softwood, it's common to see 28" bar on a 50cc saw out west.

No doubt the 361 had a weak factory oiler, everyone that I know who had one back in the mid 2000's upgraded the oiler bolt and piston, a muffler mod is a good idea too, the muffler is very restrictive. The late 660's had an even worse oiler and muffler, same deal to fix those, muffler mod and HO piston and control bolt.

 

[Junkwrencher]

All the information thus far is very good. I have learned a massive amount from member Wind Thrown, and others who are no longer with us. I put a video together sometime back with the information I learned here. Although the 361 will occasionally pull a bar longer than 28", if you're doing this often you need a bigger saw.

 

[Junkwrencher]

One more comment and I will go away, even with the upgraded oiler, they all pump the same at the lowest setting. So don't think if you do this you are creating something uncontrollable. I have this oiler on a 361 clone and turn it down when using a 20" guide bar.

 

[lamby66]

I love this forum, but some times things go way off the rails..

Does anyone know if the control bolt will add much oil without the piston pump?

I understand that there is probably enough oil now, but I want more based on how it looked before.. I really want my chain wet with oil. I will reduce oil flow or amount of gas/fill-up to make it work.

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[Junkwrencher]

I love this forum, but some times things go way off the rails..

Does anyone know if the control bolt will add much oil without the piston pump?

I understand that there is probably enough oil now, but I want more based on how it looked before.. I really want my chain wet with oil. I will reduce oil flow or amount of gas/fill-up to make it work.

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The short answer is yes. My apologies if I pushed it "off the rails". The discourse in the video explains the differences in the control bolts.

 

[huskihl]

The HO piston has about .015” longer ramp than the standard version. Adding just the HO control bolt might add .001 or .002” to the travel of the piston due to manufacturing tolerances. But it’s not going to pump like having the longer ramp of the HO piston with it