MS201T- Cylinder and piston, Brand?

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Crank1

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Hey everyone, excuse me if this isn’t the correct place to ask, but I am looking for advice on rebuilding a MS201T saw, picked up the saw cheap enough, well 2, to make 1, and Im in the saw for around $150, but it is down on compression, starts and idles great but bogs and shuts down as soon as you touch the throttle. I was recommended to get a oem Stihl piston and cylinder for it over aftermarket and wanted to know if there were any cheaper alternatives that are near as good or as good.

This is a personal saw, not anything professional, but I still want it to start and work and not need constant attention.
Thanks for reading this far and any help that is offered!

Brandon
 
In the same situation myself. If you ever plan to resale I would go OEM those saws hold their value. I understand the aftermarket route and would go Meteor or Hyway. Check out ebay I think the OEM was on $20 - $30 more for cylinder and piston.
 
completely disassemble the saw down to the crank, replace seals and case gaskets. im betting the cylinder is salvageable only needing a fresh piston. get a oem stihl piston...get a meteor kit if the cylinder is beyond hope.
Why would it need to go all the way down to the case?
 
Compression reading? Why do you think it needs a p&c? Did you pull the muffler to take a look at the piston?
Actually bought this powerhead from my local stihl dealer as I expressed that I wish I had an older carbed model he said he had a parts saw that was down on compression. I put a few nicer parts on it off my other Mtronic powerhead that I bought as a parts saw. He checked my mtronic powerhead because is basically does the same thing, starts and runs fine until you hit the throttle and it dies. Only ended up reading 80psi. So I just figured this one has the same ailments
 
That could be a number of things. I think if it was 80 on compression that it wouldnt even start. Did you do a pressure and vac test? Make sure that the crankcase is tight before you look further into it.
I’ve not go any equipment for the working on the saw. Like I said it’s a farm use saw, I don’t keep any kind of compression tester for them. Are you saying the crankcase opens up on these? How would that effect things?
 
I’ve not go any equipment for the working on the saw. Like I said it’s a farm use saw, I don’t keep any kind of compression tester for them. Are you saying the crankcase opens up on these? How would that effect things?
Pull the muffler off and have a look at the piston.
 
Seems like 9 out of 10 dealers say “scored, low compression, junk”, or give a ridiculously high price to fix a saw to try and get you to buy a new one. I’d never assume it was scored if a dealer said that
At my shop I rebuild 020T, 200T, and 201TC’s all the time. On 020s and 200Ts that are burnt up it’s around $500 and that includes new OEM P&C, Carb, fuel line,fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, cylinder gasket, crank seals (if it has an air leak) it gets steam cleaned after being blocked off for pressure vacuum check, sharpened chain, railed bar, couple hours of labor, test ran and carb adjusted.

201TCs come in less often burnt up, most of the time it’s because of a new employee on a landscaping crew that uses the 201TC for limbing and small jobs puts raw fuel in the saw instead of mixed fuel, or accidentally grabs the fuel can for the lawn mowers that’s raw fuel and puts it in the saw. Those saws are even cheaper to fix, probably around $350 with OEM P&C because they didn’t burn up do to an air leak or lean running conditions by customer adjusting high so lean the saw screams itself to death. Just hook it up to the MDG1 check the fuel parameters, pressure vacuum test, steam clean, new P&C and reassemble, factory reset and good to go.
If it’s an older 201TC it can get a new green solenoid and updated fuel filter under warranty.
I do lots of these rebuilds every year because they are all very desirable saws that hold their value very well. Any shop that tries talk the customer out of a rebuild and charge them any higher then $500 just to sell them a new saw is crazy. I have never had a customer with a 020T or 200T say no I don’t want to rebuild it for that cost I want a new one. They approved the repair every time.
Now if it’s a home owner saw (171,250,251, 271, etc) that’s burnt up then of course we tell the customer that’s it’s not worth rebuilding because the cost of OEM P&C for those saws are $300-400. With labor and all other costs involved it would be more then and new unit. In that case it’s in customers best interest to buy a new unit.
OEM P&C for pro top handles is like $179. On other pro saws they are in the $300-400 range but are worth rebuilding when saw new is over $1000.
 
I would check the carb too. When they get enough time on them to wear out a piston and cylinder you have worn out the accelerator pump and the throttle shaft is worn enough to cause a vacuum leak. Trying to just replace the oring is a waste of time imo. That little throttle shaft driven pump is part of the secret to the throttle response of these saws. IMO.
 
At my shop I rebuild 020T, 200T, and 201TC’s all the time. On 020s and 200Ts that are burnt up it’s around $500 and that includes new OEM P&C, Carb, fuel line,fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, cylinder gasket, crank seals (if it has an air leak) it gets steam cleaned after being blocked off for pressure vacuum check, sharpened chain, railed bar, couple hours of labor, test ran and carb adjusted.

201TCs come in less often burnt up, most of the time it’s because of a new employee on a landscaping crew that uses the 201TC for limbing and small jobs puts raw fuel in the saw instead of mixed fuel, or accidentally grabs the fuel can for the lawn mowers that’s raw fuel and puts it in the saw. Those saws are even cheaper to fix, probably around $350 with OEM P&C because they didn’t burn up do to an air leak or lean running conditions by customer adjusting high so lean the saw screams itself to death. Just hook it up to the MDG1 check the fuel parameters, pressure vacuum test, steam clean, new P&C and reassemble, factory reset and good to go.
If it’s an older 201TC it can get a new green solenoid and updated fuel filter under warranty.
I do lots of these rebuilds every year because they are all very desirable saws that hold their value very well. Any shop that tries talk the customer out of a rebuild and charge them any higher then $500 just to sell them a new saw is crazy. I have never had a customer with a 020T or 200T say no I don’t want to rebuild it for that cost I want a new one. They approved the repair every time.
Now if it’s a home owner saw (171,250,251, 271, etc) that’s burnt up then of course we tell the customer that’s it’s not worth rebuilding because the cost of OEM P&C for those saws are $300-400. With labor and all other costs involved it would be more then and new unit. In that case it’s in customers best interest to buy a new unit.
OEM P&C for pro top handles is like $179. On other pro saws they are in the $300-400 range but are worth rebuilding when saw new is over $1000.
Got a PN for the "green solenoid" best I can tell stihl stopped making them available. All I see are the "white" ones.
 
Got a PN for the "green solenoid" best I can tell stihl stopped making them available. All I see are the "white" ones.
No problem, I will post the part number tomorrow when I’m back at work. It’s a stocking part at my shop because I do a lot of those warranties.
 
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