MS271 starts on Choke...won't pop before running

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irhunter

irhunter

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This saw is new to me. No history.

I move the lever to choke, when cold, pull about three times and the thing starts and runs (hi idle) on the choke setting.

Hot starts are fine using the run position. The saw runs and cuts like you would expect from a 271. The chain doesn't move when the saw is idling with the brake off.

I believe the carb limiters are still there. My low screw is 1.25 turns out. I have tried several low screw settings w/o any luck. I would like this saw to start as was intended. Suggestions, please.

Roy
 
Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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Probably not the carb settings and if you keep playing with those- something will go seriously wrong if you lean out too far- even with limiters.
Look at the master control rod, it most likely is not ever engaging full choke and you are starting the saw at the fast idle setting.
Might be as easy as a spring bend, might be a broken bit of plastic, might be a worn detent on the rod.
 
irhunter

irhunter

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These saws don't have the control rod. Tomorrow, with it good and cool, I will start by trying to start on hi idle. But, I don't think it will...I think it needs the choke setting.

I will also take a look at the contraption which replaced the control rod...checking that the saw is on full choke.

Thanks.

Roy
 
Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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These saws don't have the control rod. Tomorrow, with it good and cool, I will start by trying to start on hi idle. But, I don't think it will...I think it needs the choke setting.

I will also take a look at the contraption which replaced the control rod...checking that the saw is on full choke.

Thanks.

Roy

True that- with Stihl products you get used to saying control rod- try control lever! :laugh:
 
irhunter

irhunter

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Well, there you go.

The saw, cold, will not start on just hi idle. It needs the choke.

It does seem the choke is not closing enough. But, it is not obvious to me what the problem is. The choke lever seems to be pushed as far as it will go by that plastic do-hicky-switch-thing.
 

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Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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So your plastic do-hicky thing is not engaging full choke and staying there, instead of popping once and the operator move the lever to fast idle position, the pop is causing the lever to fall back to high idle and the saw is running on at the initial pop.
Initially you are starting on say 7/8 choke with the detent in no mans land between high idle and full choke, the pop is enough to jolt it back to the high idle detent position.
 
irhunter

irhunter

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Joined
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Messages
507
Location
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So your plastic do-hicky thing is not engaging full choke and staying there, instead of popping once and the operator move the lever to fast idle position, the pop is causing the lever to fall back to high idle and the saw is running on at the initial pop.
Initially you are starting on say 7/8 choke with the detent in no mans land between high idle and full choke, the pop is enough to jolt it back to the high idle detent position.
I think the first part is right: not getting full choke, ever.

But, I don't think the second part is right...I think the thing doesn't pop or bump to hi idle at all. I think the saw is just running on the 7/8ths-choke condition (with the idle high).
 
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