MS361 Bar and Chain Question...

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Yoyo

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I just bought a nice MS361 from a fellow who had a 20" bar on it. I want to put a 24" or 25" bar on it, Rollomatic, the extra light version if possible. I would also like to try a ripping chain and a reasonably aggressive crosscut chain. My current 026 has a chain with a yellow mark on it and I really like how it cuts. I will likely get the new bar and chains from the local Stihl dealer but I would like to go in there a little more dangerous than I am now, as my local dealer tends to be less than helpful, so the more I know in advance, the more likely I will get what I want. I have also attached a picture of the current bar on the MS361, in case that helps. I don't have the saw in hand yet, so that is about all I know. My question is, can anyone provide the Stihl part numbers for the items I am wanting for the MS361? I tried to look them up but just got overwhelmed and confused. I can run a chainsaw fine, but all of the different options on bars and chains makes me want to go get a cup of coffee. :) Thanks for any assistance you more knowledgeable folks are able to provide. I am in Canada if that makes any difference.
 

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The 20 inch bar is ideal for your saw. IMO. This saw is not a toque monster so I wouldn't even consider a ripping chain. Best bet is to keep the 20 and use a full skip chisel for fast cutting. Works for me! BTW how's the oiler?
 
Thank you for your advice. I'll add some info...

My 026 has had some mods and runs a 20" bar very well; it is hungry like the wolf (if you know your Duran Duran), digs hard and rarely slows. So it does pretty much everything I need a saw for. However, I have a few 18" to 24" trees to fall and I prefer to cut the notch on a single side of the tree, all the way through. I figure the MS361 may need a muffler mod but should not have a problem running a 24"-25" bar for the times I need to use it for that. I may be wrong. It is not going to be doing this all day long, every day of the year, just once in awhile. For the times I need to cut this size of tree, I'll use the MS361, otherwise I'll stick with the 026 because it does everything I want with a 20" bar and in a light package. In terms of the ripping chain, most of the trees I cut will be about 12" to 15" across and I am cutting 8" x 8" posts out of them, so nothing too big and I'm not going to be pushing it, just going the speed the saw likes. So the ripping chain could be run on a 20" bar, or possibly even 18" bar, on the MS361. Not sure if that makes any difference in your opinion or not but that is what I am up to.
 
I just bought a nice MS361 from a fellow who had a 20" bar on it. I want to put a 24" or 25" bar on it, Rollomatic, the extra light version if possible. I would also like to try a ripping chain and a reasonably aggressive crosscut chain. My current 026 has a chain with a yellow mark on it and I really like how it cuts. I will likely get the new bar and chains from the local Stihl dealer but I would like to go in there a little more dangerous than I am now, as my local dealer tends to be less than helpful, so the more I know in advance, the more likely I will get what I want. I have also attached a picture of the current bar on the MS361, in case that helps. I don't have the saw in hand yet, so that is about all I know. My question is, can anyone provide the Stihl part numbers for the items I am wanting for the MS361? I tried to look them up but just got overwhelmed and confused. I can run a chainsaw fine, but all of the different options on bars and chains makes me want to go get a cup of coffee. :) Thanks for any assistance you more knowledgeable folks are able to provide. I am in Canada if that makes any difference.
you can run a 25" full comp chain or a 28 if you run skip. ignore what the dealer has to say, and just order the bar and chain you want, if they give you any S, walk out and don't go back.

go for a .050 gauge 3/8 pitch, once you have the bar it will have the chain link count stamped on the side.

As for part #s I"m not the guy lol
 
Hardwood or softwood? What type of chain are you using with the 026 for ripping?
 
I have not done any ripping yet on any saw. The wood I will be cutting is West Coast Douglas Fir, some Ponderosa Pine.
 
@Duane(Pa) , thanks for that. Does it matter what sprocket is on the saw? This is something I don't know much about, other than I have read sometimes it makes a difference.
 
@Duane(Pa) , thanks for that. Does it matter what sprocket is on the saw? This is something I don't know much about, other than I have read sometimes it makes a difference.
You would want a 3/8, 7 tooth rim. I didn't notice the safety chain in the ad. It shows the part number for the bar and that is what I was looking at...
 
I have not done any ripping yet on any saw. The wood I will be cutting is West Coast Douglas Fir, some Ponderosa Pine.

On my 59cc class chainsaws (in the 360 series) they all have run a 25" bar with RSF chains (skip). out West Douglas fir and such is soft woods unlike your Eastern hard woods. It will be fine for the OP to do this without modifications to the saw.
 
@Duane(Pa) , thanks for that. Does it matter what sprocket is on the saw? This is something I don't know much about, other than I have read sometimes it makes a difference.
stock 7 pin will suffice, 8 pin is a bit much for most stock small block saws, but can be a hoot with a big block saw and a short bar
 
stock 7 pin will suffice, 8 pin is a bit much for most stock small block saws, but can be a hoot with a big block saw and a short bar
If I have this right, an 8 pin will run the chain faster but with less torque, and visa-versa, similar to any other gearing system. Is that correct?
 
An 8 pin will turn the chain faster but you'll experience a significant torque loss with a 60cc saw.
Just an fyi when we purchased a graneberg mill the minimum recommended saw was 70cc (printed on the box) .
I used an MS361 for a few years at work and think it was one of the great ones built by stihl, but wouldn't mill with it , even small stuff. Normal cross grain cutting is just completely different from milling.
For normal use I wouldn't hesitate to put a 25" bar on an MS361.
 
An 8 pin will turn the chain faster but you'll experience a significant torque loss with a 60cc saw.
Just an fyi when we purchased a graneberg mill the minimum recommended saw was 70cc (printed on the box) .
I used an MS361 for a few years at work and think it was one of the great ones built by stihl, but wouldn't mill with it , even small stuff. Normal cross grain cutting is just completely different from milling.
For normal use I wouldn't hesitate to put a 25" bar on an MS361.
Thanks for the added confidence running a 25" bar.

In terms of milling, is it that the grain of the wood is at a different orientation than when cross-cutting, or the amount of the bar/chain engaged in cutting, or the length of time cutting with no break for the saw, or all of the above? I was thinking that if I have small diameter (12" or so) logs and I am only cutting slabs off the sides to make 8" x 8" posts, that I wouldn't have all that much bar/chain in the wood, but I would obviously be running it for a longer period of time, like the time it takes to cut 8 feet versus the time it takes to cut 18" for example when cross-cutting.
 
If I have this right, an 8 pin will run the chain faster but with less torque, and visa-versa, similar to any other gearing system. Is that correct?
correct, think of it as putting a bigger sprocket on the front of a bicycle or motorcycle... makes you go much faster but with more effort.

As for milling with a 361. Its not something I would advise to do often, a ripping chain really only helps reduce some of the friction and helps with finish. If you want to make a habit out of ripping logs, get a bigger saw, one that has much more torque and lower RiPM's overall such as a 90cc or bigger. The smaller saws just don't have the cooling power or the clutch and oiler to be in a cut for that long. Since you're going to do it anyways... cut a little and let it rest a short bit (few seconds) you're piston and cylinder will be thankful you did.
 
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