MS361 Bar and Chain Question...

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I bought a new 361 in 2005. It had a 20” on it and was great. Several years later I bought a 20” MS362. I then put a 18” on the 361 with a 8 pin sprocket. It’s very impressive limbing and smaller diameter wood. Really slings the chips!


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I know nothing about ripping, but you should be fine with the other uses. Listen to those who cut the same wood you cut.

I have a 361 and in our eastern hardwood it is definitely happier with a 20” bar than a 25” bar; nonetheless I wouldn’t hesitate occasionally falling with a 25” for the very reason you stated so I see no reason to hesitate in the wood you are cutting. Just set it up like those who cut the same wood do.
Ron
 
I just bought a nice MS361 from a fellow who had a 20" bar on it. I want to put a 24" or 25" bar on it, Rollomatic, the extra light version if possible. I would also like to try a ripping chain and a reasonably aggressive crosscut chain. My current 026 has a chain with a yellow mark on it and I really like how it cuts. I will likely get the new bar and chains from the local Stihl dealer but I would like to go in there a little more dangerous than I am now, as my local dealer tends to be less than helpful, so the more I know in advance, the more likely I will get what I want. I have also attached a picture of the current bar on the MS361, in case that helps. I don't have the saw in hand yet, so that is about all I know. My question is, can anyone provide the Stihl part numbers for the items I am wanting for the MS361? I tried to look them up but just got overwhelmed and confused. I can run a chainsaw fine, but all of the different options on bars and chains makes me want to go get a cup of coffee. :) Thanks for any assistance you more knowledgeable folks are able to provide. I am in Canada if that makes any difference.
https://m.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/SawChainSelection-6.pdf
Simply match the bar to the mounted pitch, and go back into the woods. From a fellow Canuck, in Amherstburg.......
 
I just bought a nice MS361 from a fellow who had a 20" bar on it. I want to put a 24" or 25" bar on it, Rollomatic, the extra light version if possible. I would also like to try a ripping chain and a reasonably aggressive crosscut chain. My current 026 has a chain with a yellow mark on it and I really like how it cuts. I will likely get the new bar and chains from the local Stihl dealer but I would like to go in there a little more dangerous than I am now, as my local dealer tends to be less than helpful, so the more I know in advance, the more likely I will get what I want. I have also attached a picture of the current bar on the MS361, in case that helps. I don't have the saw in hand yet, so that is about all I know. My question is, can anyone provide the Stihl part numbers for the items I am wanting for the MS361? I tried to look them up but just got overwhelmed and confused. I can run a chainsaw fine, but all of the different options on bars and chains makes me want to go get a cup of coffee. :) Thanks for any assistance you more knowledgeable folks are able to provide. I am in Canada if that makes any difference.
I have consistently used a 25 inch bar on my MS361 for years without any issues. I don't have the saw with me, else I would provide a part number for you.
 
Pro Tip:

Just walk in and ask for the bar and chain you want. Do NOT offer the name of the saw you have, since the dealer will tell you "it can't be done" . I experienced this exact phenomenon with my 361. Called the dealer, said I'm looking for a 25" bar for my 361. The answer? "NO". Would not even give me a price!

Called back five minutes later and asked if they had a 25" bar. Yes sir, $50 (or whatever it cost at the time)...

Anyway, it seems Stihl trains the dealers not to offer bar and chain combos for saws where the saw capaciry is borderline. I think it has to do with the capability of the oiler. Turn yours up all the way, and you should be ok.

My 2c

Mike
 
Pro Tip:

Just walk in and ask for the bar and chain you want. Do NOT offer the name of the saw you have, since the dealer will tell you "it can't be done" . I experienced this exact phenomenon with my 361. Called the dealer, said I'm looking for a 25" bar for my 361. The answer? "NO". Would not even give me a price!

Called back five minutes later and asked if they had a 25" bar. Yes sir, $50 (or whatever it cost at the time)...

Anyway, it seems Stihl trains the dealers not to offer bar and chain combos for saws where the saw capaciry is borderline. I think it has to do with the capability of the oiler. Turn yours up all the way, and you should be ok.

My 2c

Mike
And they'll try to sell you only green chains........
 
Thank you for your advice. I'll add some info...

My 026 has had some mods and runs a 20" bar very well; it is hungry like the wolf (if you know your Duran Duran), digs hard and rarely slows. So it does pretty much everything I need a saw for. However, I have a few 18" to 24" trees to fall and I prefer to cut the notch on a single side of the tree, all the way through. I figure the MS361 may need a muffler mod but should not have a problem running a 24"-25" bar for the times I need to use it for that. I may be wrong. It is not going to be doing this all day long, every day of the year, just once in awhile. For the times I need to cut this size of tree, I'll use the MS361, otherwise I'll stick with the 026 because it does everything I want with a 20" bar and in a light package. In terms of the ripping chain, most of the trees I cut will be about 12" to 15" across and I am cutting 8" x 8" posts out of them, so nothing too big and I'm not going to be pushing it, just going the speed the saw likes. So the ripping chain could be run on a 20" bar, or possibly even 18" bar, on the MS361. Not sure if that makes any difference in your opinion or not but that is what I am up to.
The 361 will be fine pulling a 25 inch bar every day, all day long. It is not a gutless pig like your 026.
Like with any power saw make sure your chain is kept very sharp at all times. In my humble opinion the 361 is one of the best saws produced by stihl. I have bucked huge rock maples with a 28-29 inch bar 91-93 drivers and it pull the chain with little/ no effort. . . It was a sad day in America and the world when Stihl haulted production of the 361.
 
I really appreciate everyone's contributions, thank you for your generosity! Hopefully one day I will have something to offer to contribute back.

Saw arrives some time next week. I'm just going to run it with the bar it comes with initially, do some bucking, and get a feel for it before I make the change. Things happen pretty slowly around here, we just bought the property and there is a lot on the go, but I'll report back with my impressions of the 25" bar compared to the 20.
 
... It is not a gutless pig like your 026...
haha...you must be referring to someone else's 026, mine has had some mods and is a little rocket with a 20" bar. Other than that, glad to hear you have such reverence for the 361. I hope mine is as good as you describe.
 
I have a 362 with both a 20'' and 24'' bars. The 20'' is perfect for that saw. The 24 however can be ran but it doesn't pull near as good. That extra 4'' does make a big difference. I would go ahead and get a 24'' bar for occasional use but you will find the 20'' is the best bar size for that saw.
 
I have a 362 with both a 20'' and 24'' bars. The 20'' is perfect for that saw. The 24 however can be ran but it doesn't pull near as good. That extra 4'' does make a big difference. I would go ahead and get a 24'' bar for occasional use but you will find the 20'' is the best bar size for that saw.
Thanks for that. Is your saw completely stock and when you run the 24" bar, is it a skip-tooth chain you use or full comp?
 
To me small trees and short bars are hard on the back.

Ive ran 25" on modded 60cc saws. I quit doing that when I realized I wasnt being truthfull.

Truthfull about the size of wood I cut

36-48" plus trees . Yes ive cut over 4ft trees so that bumps the low side up a few inches and sounds better to saw.

But really I probly am in 24" and smaller wood most the time and have found no use for a 60cc saw.

28" on a 70cc is all around more comfortable and enjoyable to limb fell limb and buck trees in the 12-24" range and will handle the bigger than 30" stuff when needed

Have fun milling with a 60cc saw
 
I bought my MS 361 back in 2008 and had them swap the 20 inch bar for 25 when I bought it, and that and full comp round or square is all I have ever run on it. I mostly cut pine and oak, and I have never been disappointed. You will have to go just a tad bit slower if you’re using the full bar and full comp chain, but not significantly so. I did open up the muffler a bit and re-tune it last year and that did make a huge difference in performance (and fuel consumption). It will cut a dry 22” oak log in 35 seconds. My biggest love for the 25” bar is not having to lean over when cutting limbs on the ground!
 
... swap the 20 inch bar for 25 when I bought it, and that and full comp round or square is all I have ever run on it. ... have never been disappointed. You will have to go just a tad bit slower if you’re using the full bar and full comp chain, but not significantly so. I did open up the muffler a bit and re-tune it last year and that did make a huge difference in performance (and fuel consumption).... the 25” bar is not having to lean over when cutting limbs on the ground!
I notice this is your second post so thanks for chiming in with your experience!
 
Thanks for that. Is your saw completely stock and when you run the 24" bar, is it a skip-tooth chain you use or full comp?
Stock full skip. I mostly run the 20'' bar but I do have a 24'' that I run every now and then. IMO the saw is better balanced with the 20'' bar. It's seems a little nose heavy when I run the 24'' bar.
 
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