MS660.........The saw from hell

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See post 27

The wife says I am so stubborn, I can push a string uphill when I get pissed, so hell or high water........This saw is going to run.

And nearly everything has been replaced with OEM or quality parts (Except for crankcase which new, but still china junk) so it should be a quality saw once the problems are resolved.

Are Adama carbs notorious for having problems?
 
The wife says I am so stubborn, I can push a string uphill when I get pissed, so hell or high water........This saw is going to run.

And nearly everything has been replaced with OEM or quality parts (Except for crankcase which new, but still china junk) so it should be a quality saw once the problems are resolved.

Are Adama carbs notorious for having problems?
God help you it will just break again. IDK about Adamo carbs. How about video of it running and attempted idle?
 
My pressure vac test is mighty vac for bleeding brakes and old craftsman pressure vac gauge with rubber tubing and a bulb for pressure and some adaptors, doesn't me matter if new or just assembled, I've messed up seals or poor cylinder gasket or see spark plug not sealing or impulse line, etc etc, spray with soap solution after pressuring, never heard of that carb, should be walbro I think
 
Found the problem. There is an air leak between the crank and oil reservoir.

Already put two new case gaskets on it, so the case is warped beyond repair.

Anyone have an OEM crankcase in good condition to sell?

Did you fix the air leak?

Pressure test this?

Yes. Replaced the crankcase and cylinder, so the leak is fixed.
So did you pressure test?

Some people don't get the crank seal in properly on some saws they rebuild. Most people would insist that a pressure and vac test be done.
Spray that soapy water on a pressured saw at the crank seals and the case seals and see what happens.
 
TRX I am not picking on you in the least. I have learned a tremendous amount about saws since my first saw acted up maybe 10 years ago and I sought to figure out why maybe 5-6 years ago.

Some things I learned can be found in my posts on this page and the previous pages in that same thread. Check it out.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/how-does-a-chainsaw-work.365712/page-3
Also this vid

 
The BIGGEST lesson I learned on why a saw may not run right, or will cause itself to implode, boil down to AIR leaks, and blockages.
The trick is to know how to test and to systematically do so, not just guess.

Oh yeah, and as to your warped case, couldn't the case have been made true with a dead flat surface, some good sandpaper adhered to it, and carefully running the case across the paper until it is dead flat?
 
TRX I am not picking on you in the least.

Go ahead and pick on me. I should have reassembled the saw and returned it to the seller, but I had thrown away some of the parts before I figured out what I was dealing with. Really wishing I had gone down and picked up the new MS400.

Live and learn.

Oh yeah, and as to your warped case, couldn't the case have been made true with a dead flat surface, some good sandpaper adhered to it, and carefully running the case across the paper until it is dead flat?

We have sleds, so when a head warps, I welded a handle to a flat piece of 1/2 steel and use 800 grit sandpaper with a little water to make it flat. Was going to do that with the crankcase, but was concerned about tolerances between the case and crank and/or the gap between the cases would be so wide it wouldn't seal.

Looked for an OEM case but couldn't find one, so had no choice but to go with the $65 clone.

I will check out your links. Thank you!
 
TRX, No way man, I would never dog on a man who tries.

We all make mistakes, the true sign of a man is how well we carry on and come out wiser in the end.
I have had to resist the urge to possibly over pay for an 075 that i am unsure of why it does run, but is relatively hard to start, and doesn't want to idle.
It sounded good while at throttle, but would die once I let off. The guy wanted $650 but said he would take $600. I essentially told him, I would think on it. After a few days, I asked him if I could pull the muffler to see inside the piston and cylinder. He balked and said he'd go as low as $500 even though I gave him numerous scenarios that could get costly to fix that no idle situation. I told the guy I could go $400 without seeing inside. I have parts and most everything to fix it, but air leaks and a possible top end are not worth $500. of course he said NO to both my tests and my offer.

Patience usually shows us the best solutions. And we are here to help each other. Good luck
 
Read up on building a pressure test kit, and started to disassemble saw to see if fittings I have would work. Turns out I didn't connect impulse hose to carb.

It runs and idles!

Just got back from cutting some trees that came down in the field this winter. Runs really solid and chews through wood unlike anything I have ever ran.

Thank you everyone for all your help!
 
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