My first chainsaw “mill”

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joe25DA

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I picked one of these cheap bar guides up just to try. Sure seems simple and rugged enough, precision doesn’t look to be a priority but I’m starting slow so that’s fine. Im planning on using a 661 Mtronic I built last year. Got it from the previous owner who claimed it lost spark. I went ahead and got the whole kit from Stihl with the module, carb solenoid and new pickup. I’m curious about what guys think of these. I have realistic expectations for it since it was inexpensive and while I’ve used run just about every make and model of saw for the past 23 years, I’ve never milled with one. I have a 72” x 30” ash trunk to test on and plenty more waiting.7191C92D-FC1F-4212-B9A5-62673FBF07BA.jpeg1C610013-192A-4816-8186-B88E6555453C.jpeg
 
I've milled ash that big (look to the left!) with a Granberg Alaskan Mill and an MS461. I put a winch on it (long before Granberg sold them) and that made the job much easier and the results much better. I used an extension ladder as a guide to make the first cut.

I had a Granberg Edging Mill (used to be called a Mini Mill). I found the small mill to be not terribly useful and sold it. I originally bought it to straight line edge the slabs I cut with the Alaskan Mill but wasn't too happy with the small mill's performance as the cut wandered too much for what would become S4S boards. For rough beams and such it would suffice with smallish logs. In my experience I don't think you will make out too well with that small mill on 30" logs. Perhaps others have had a different experience.

I've got an MS661 now and will be using that with the Alaskan Mill...

This is an edging/mini mill.

1673222276835.png
 
@GrizG How do you edge your boards now?
I straight line rip the edges with a jig I made and a circular saw. The jig uses a 10' steel stud screwed to 1/2" CDX. I ran the saw down both side of the steel stud to cut the plywood parallel to the stud. In use the jig is attached to the natural edge board using the edge of the plywood as a guide for placement. I generally straight line rip both edges and then use the table saw to rip the desired widths from both edges. Doing it this way I can almost always prevent the grain from running out the side of the boards even on a tree with a lot of taper.

The distance between the steel stud and edge of the plywood is the distance between the edge of the circular saw's base plate and the edge of the blade.

StraightLineJig.gif
 
Where did you find the winch? Did you make your own, and if so can you share how you made it?




I've milled ash that big (look to the left!) with a Granberg Alaskan Mill and an MS461. I put a winch on it (long before Granberg sold them) and that made the job much easier and the results much better. I used an extension ladder as a guide to make the first cut.

I had a Granberg Edging Mill (used to be called a Mini Mill). I found the small mill to be not terribly useful and sold it. I originally bought it to straight line edge the slabs I cut with the Alaskan Mill but wasn't too happy with the small mill's performance as the cut wandered too much for what would become S4S boards. For rough beams and such it would suffice with smallish logs. In my experience I don't think you will make out too well with that small mill on 30" logs. Perhaps others have had a different experience.

I've got an MS661 now and will be using that with the Alaskan Mill...

This is an edging/mini mill.

View attachment 1047332
 
"Where did you find the winch? Did you make your own, and if so can you share how you made it?"

I use a boat trailer winch and a wooden adapter I made. Granberg sells winches for their Alaskan mills which would be a simpler solution.
 
I picked one of these cheap bar guides up just to try. Sure seems simple and rugged enough, precision doesn’t look to be a priority but I’m starting slow so that’s fine. Im planning on using a 661 Mtronic I built last year. Got it from the previous owner who claimed it lost spark. I went ahead and got the whole kit from Stihl with the module, carb solenoid and new pickup. I’m curious about what guys think of these. I have realistic expectations for it since it was inexpensive and while I’ve used run just about every make and model of saw for the past 23 years, I’ve never milled with one. I have a 72” x 30” ash trunk to test on and plenty more waiting.View attachment 1047323View attachment 1047324
I bought that same unit back in the 70's, still have the manual. I've used it on XL12's and my little Echo 305. I milled 6X6's for the floor joists on my bump out on my trailer in WV. We were on a Boy Scout camp out and one patrol rolled up cut off stumps for chairs. There were a couple Black Locust logs close to our fire ring. My guys found a 2X6, I had just thrown the old "Lumber Maker" on the truck. Put it on the little Echo and milled the Locust logs in half. That was at least 20 years ago and those 2 benches are still at camp. The have had many bases swapped out on them. I use a 660 on my Alaskan with a 36" bar.
 

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