My husqvarna 136 is killing me- even after carb kit- please help

[backhoelover]

Does that carb have a nozzle or accumulator? If it has a nozzle you need to pull meter diaphragm and High needle, next you need to take you finger and cover the little feed hole that lines up with high need on metering side and put a small piece of fuel line in high needle hole you should be able to blow. shouldn’t be able to suck back it should seal off. if it doesn’t seal than nozzle is bad. For the accumulator you can’t test best to just replace.

 

[backhoelover]

pg.15
https://www.miniplane-usa.com/pdf/WalbroServiceManual.pdf

 

[backhoelover]

Word Accumulator should have been the word capillary

 

[clydesdale6]

Holy Crap it is running! I can't believe it. I adjusted the carb settings to what irhunter suggested and the damn thing is working. It started and I actually had throttle response. So, I went inside, had dinner and went back out and it started up and I used it to cut a small tree that fell in the wind storm yesterday. Thank you all!!!!

Now, it does not idle well, but runs fine. I have to give it throttle to stay idling. I am afraid to adjust it at the moment. But, my plan is to turn the screws back in and find exactly where I have them at the moment. Then go back and start fine tuning. If it won't stay running, which way do I turn the "L" screw?

BTW, I did write down where I originally had them and I did put it back to those specs when I started this venture. But, those settings are not what worked and I don't know why. But, I am about 2.5 turns out on H and 1.5 on L. How do I get this thing to idle better? Just use the idle screw instead?

Thanks again folks. I cannot believe that being just a little off on the setting made such a huge difference. I don't get it.

 

[keithelec]

I have an 8 year old Husqvarna 136. It's not a bad chainsaw, but hard work and the passage of time have taken their toll. Some advice - when things go wrong, don't fit cheap Chinese spare parts! Been there, done that. The cheap new ignition coil failed after 5 minutes and a Chinese carburettor was incorrectly made and jammed closed.
Chainsaws wear with hard usage and genuine spare parts are expensive. Best, in my opinion, to junk a worn out saw and buy new.

 

[Nortryder]

The muffler on my 136 was pretty much carboned up. Not much breathing going on. A couple of extra holes didn't hurt.

 

[Tomos770]

FWIW, this is from the 36/41 owner's manual:

"The basic setting can vary
between: H= 2-1/8 to 2-7/8 turn respectively L= l-1/2 to 2-1/4 turn."

The 136/141 owner's manual doesn't list carb settings. I think I'd try setting the carb to the middle of the basic range, and see if that changes anything. Otherwise, it seems you may be close to needing to try an AM carb.

Roy

This post is golden! With suggested numbers I was able to set my refurbished (by me) Partner 351 chainsaw (new fuel lines new bearings with seals ported&muffler modded)

Had the same problem as OP....was struggling with L&H screws @ 1....1-1/2.....

Now it sings even better as new (back in 1997)

L@ 1-1/2
H@ 2-1/8

Didnt know that non-strato saw can be set higher then 1-1/2...

 

[scottr]

The muffler on my 136 was pretty much carboned up. Not much breathing going on. A couple of extra holes didn't hurt.

Was the spark arrestor screen in the muffler carboned up ?