Need help fixing 25 ton log splitter

[Naptown]

Hi guys, I have a buddy who loaned me a log splitter. I used it about 15 minutes and then it ran out of fuel. I refilled it, it fired right up but started leaking hydraulic fluid - gushing fluid from the valve (end cover). I noticed the two screws were loose so I tightened them. On the other side (handle side), the screws were loose too. I tightened those and tried again. Unfortunately, even with everything snugged up, it was gushing hydraulic fluid again. I uploaded a video to youtube for your reference. It's actually the video I sent him asking for help.

It's an older splitter but I believe most of them are the same, simple type of machine. This one is made by Brave Industries and is a HP-1226F. He also sent me with the assembly manual which should help me explain what is going on. I did some reading and found this MAY be called a detent cover? Not sure, but I definitely want to get this going again. Thanks in advance for any help.

Youtube video here: My leaking splitter

edit: I also attached the assembly manual

 

[Naptown]

Also, I did find this thread about what seems to be the same problem. I did completely remove that cover to check to see if there was a gasket or something pinched or missing. So, I did completely remove that cover (not recommended) as mentioned in this thread: Arborist Site 2014 thread

 

[triptester]

Leakage at either end of the control valve is caused by a damaged O-ring. The rear cover does not have a gasket, it is only a dust cover. Some rear covers also have a slight notch in the cover for a vent.

 

[Naptown]

I assume this o-ring kit should fix the problem?

eBay link to O-ring kit

 

[Naptown]

I called the manufacturer (Brave Industries) and the guy told me I could purchase a replacement valve through Foard's. I guess it's called a Chief Valve and they have it listed on their website for $129. Has anyone had experience using another brand of hydraulic valve? I called a local hydraulic place and he couldn't help me as I didn't have the specs of the current valve. Just hoping to not drop $150 on a new valve if I don't have to.

 

[olddude]

I called the manufacturer (Brave Industries) and the guy told me I could purchase a replacement valve through Foard's. I guess it's called a Chief Valve and they have it listed on their website for $129. Has anyone had experience using another brand of hydraulic valve? I called a local hydraulic place and he couldn't help me as I didn't have the specs of the current valve. Just hoping to not drop $150 on a new valve if I don't have to.

I just did a quick search of log splitter valves and came up with this one from surplus center. It should work and there were a couple on there that were a little cheaper than this one. Just make sure you get the right one for your splitter......open or closed center which ever your system is. Most are open center but check.

1 Spool 30 GPM Wolverine WLS800 Log Splitter Valve​

ITEM NUMBER: 9-12474

 

[olddude]

Oh and be sure to check your oil filter if there is one. Sometimes a stopped up filter or a bad check valve in the head can cause the valve to possibly go bad.

 

[triptester]

I called the manufacturer (Brave Industries) and the guy told me I could purchase a replacement valve through Foard's. I guess it's called a Chief Valve and they have it listed on their website for $129. Has anyone had experience using another brand of hydraulic valve? I called a local hydraulic place and he couldn't help me as I didn't have the specs of the current valve. Just hoping to not drop $150 on a new valve if I don't have to.

Control valves for splitters can be found for under $100. Energy brand or Energy style log splitter valves can generally be used as a direct replacement for valves mounted to the cylinder using the port closest to the handle for attachment. Prince LS3000 style valves generally work best when attached to both ports with hoses.
Check online for log splitter valves or go to your local farm store. Prices will vary greatly for the same valve.

 

[homemade]

Oh and be sure to check your oil filter if there is one. Sometimes a stopped up filter or a bad check valve in the head can cause the valve to possibly go bad.

Never seen a plugged filter cause an oil leak.

To the OP. Just take the valve apart. There is a few o rings on the spool. I’m assuming there a standard size and not a funky proprietary size. You can take the broken one to a good small engine shop and get the one that matches. Or pick up a kit for $20 and have most of the common sizes.


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[mudrat2]

Check this out. Some types of valves have the o-rings in the body, others have the o-rings in grooves in the spool.

 

[olddude]

Never seen a plugged filter cause an oil leak.

To the OP. Just take the valve apart. There is a few o rings on the spool. I’m assuming there a standard size and not a funky proprietary size. You can take the broken one to a good small engine shop and get the one that matches. Or pick up a kit for $20 and have most of the common sizes.


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Don't happen often but it can happen. The filter get clogged and it's supposed bypass oil but if that bypass valve in the head stops working for some reason the return oil has to go somewhere. Usually the filter will split open if the o-ring between the filter and the head doesn't blow out. By then there is enough back pressure in the return system to cause damage to the valve itself.

 

[Stock]

Never seen a plugged filter cause an oil leak.

To the OP. Just take the valve apart. There is a few o rings on the spool. I’m assuming there a standard size and not a funky proprietary size. You can take the broken one to a good small engine shop and get the one that matches. Or pick up a kit for $20 and have most of the common sizes.


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Had it happen on a Mconnel PA97 hedger where the incorrect filter had been fitted (no Bypass) and when the head would jam it kept blowing the return pipe off the valve chest as the return system would surge, lucky the seals on the motor held ................................................................................................................

 

[shansen]

Check this out. Some types of valves have the o-rings in the body, others have the o-rings in grooves in the spool.

This video is incorrect! Replacing the o-ring and backup ring on the handle end and then inserting the valve spool in that end will nearly always cut those two new seals every time. The valve spool must be inserted into the valve body from the opposite end so the chamfer on the spool passes over the new seals and will not cut them. I stopped watching there. Here is the link with the instructions and parts identification to repair this valve.
http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/44833x.pdf

 

[farmer steve]

@Naptown. Did you ever get the valve fixed?

 

[Naptown]

This video is incorrect! Replacing the o-ring and backup ring on the handle end and then inserting the valve spool in that end will nearly always cut those two new seals every time. The valve spool must be inserted into the valve body from the opposite end so the chamfer on the spool passes over the new seals and will not cut them. I stopped watching there. Here is the link with the instructions and parts identification to repair this valve.
http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/44833x.pdf

Thank you for the PDF. I think this will be helpful.

@Naptown. Did you ever get the valve fixed?

Unfortunately, life has gotten in the way a bit. I did order a replacement valve that I intended to install in place of the faulty one. Now I'm tempted to try the repair first instead of replacement. I lost my father a couple weeks ago so I've had very little time for anything. At this point, it may just become a spring project.

 

[farmer steve]

Sorry to hear about you father buddy.

 

[Naptown]

OK, I have installed the new valve and it works, but something is backwards. Without swapping any lines, is there a way to reverse the valve? The auto detent is in the direction of splitting the wood. Then you have to hold the handle for the splitter to return to the open position. I know it should be the other way. Any ideas?

 

[shansen]

Hi,
Did you replace the entire directional control valve or just the detent cover assembly as shown in the video?
Need to know this in order to provide an answer please.

 

[shansen]

If just the detent cover assembly, make certain the detent sleeve inside has the internal machined groove furthest away from the valve body:

 

[Naptown]

Hi,
Did you replace the entire directional control valve or just the detent cover assembly as shown in the video?
Need to know this in order to provide an answer please.

I replaced the entire valve assembly. I called Brave and they recommended this specific replacement. I really don't want to have to "re-plumb" any of the hoses if I don't have to.