Need Help Selecting Optimal Bar Length

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RhoRidge

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Location
Norman, OK
Greetings all. First off, new member. Been doing a ton of research on buying a new saw & have spent a lot of time surfing this site. Figured I might as well join up & get the full benefits.

A little background that leads to my question. I'm gonna be 52 this year & am currently reclaiming 8+ acres of heavily wooded land that was sorely neglected for the last 20 years by the previous owners. I got my start running chainsaws way back in high school when I spent the Summers working for the Parks Department in my small hometown. We mostly were taking down diseased Cottonwoods & trimming trees that were encroaching on power lines. I spent most of my time aloft working in the bucket but did run a 36" bar when it came to dropping the tree. That saw was a monster but I never had a problem running it. I have no idea what we were running as far as bar length on our 'normal' saws as it wasn't important or meaningful to me then but my best guess was either 16" or 20". Certainly nothing smaller.

Fast forward to today. I've currently been running an Echo CS-306 with a 14" bar. If was recommended to me by our local dealer who handles both Stihl & Echo. He said Echo's were good for small stuff but you need to move up to a Stihl when starting to get in to the bigger timber. So far he's been right on the money. I've used that Echo for a lot of limbing plus have dropped quite a few trees with it. Basically I've run the crap out of it in both Summer & Winter and haven't been able to kill it. Plus it's a great saw for cutting in small confined areas; like up on a small dirt ledge when clearing fence line; as it's so small, light, & maneuverable. Never fails to start on the second pull & spends it's time bouncing around in the bed of the pickup when not in use.

Now it's time to get a new saw (plus a good excuse) as I'm getting in to the bigger stuff. After a lot of research; lot's of it here and thanks for all the great info & opinions; I've decided to pull the trigger on a Stihl MS 362. Like a lot of folks, I did a lot of wavering back and forth between the 391 & 362. The 362 won out for the weight savings; a pound is a pound is a pound & adds up after working all day; the better power band, & the better build quality. Plus I wanted something I could run up to a 25" bar on if the situation called for it. I always try to buy the best I can afford; if justified; & for a $150 more over the 391, the 362 just makes plain good sense. Over the life of the saw that extra $150 will prove to be negligible. Plus I fully expect to be using this saw when I'm in my 70's. So I aim to get something I'm gonna get my moneys worth. This is gonna be my first Stihl and I expect it will out last me based on their reputation for putting out a quality product.

Now to the crux of my dilemma after all this babbling on. I apologize if this question has been asked elsewhere in another thread and if so, kindly point me in that direction and I'll get outta your hair. The question is what length of bar should I be running on a 362 for day to day work? I'm a big guy; 6'4" 255 lbs. I was planning on running a 20" bar for everyday work & throwing on a 25" bar when the job demanded. I've seen sporadic references in various threads while researching which model Stihl to buy that indicate a longer bar will benefit a taller user by reducing operator fatigue throughout the day.

So I'd like to get some informed input as to whether I should be running a 20 or 25 inch bar for day to day use; based on my height; for optimal usage & comfort. I know it's prudent and has always been my own personal policy to run the smallest bar that will adequately & safely get the job done. Any and all opinions are welcome. I'm especially interested in hearing from you out there who are in the 6 foot plus category in the height department.

Thanks so much for running such a beneficial site. I've been trolling up & down here for the last month doing research & have found a lot of good, relevant info when it came down to isolating the Stihl model that would best suit my needs & wallet. Can't wait to get my 362 & put it to some wood. Thanks again.
 
I'm about your size (just a bit heavier) and I do most of my cutting with a 20" bar. Out where I'm at there is a lot of brush so I find it a bit easier to get around with the shorter bar. With the saws I use, 18 or 20 inch bars seem to balance out better. It does mean you will have to do more bending, but at 6'4" you are going to have to bend anyway.
 
Since you're buying both you'll have the chance to find your own preference. Personally I like the balance of a 36 with a 20, especially when you're carrying it. I hate a saw that wants to drag it's nose in the dirt when held by the top handle. As far as limbing and bucking goes, to me a longer bar will work your arms more, a shorter bar will work your back more, if that makes sense. The one thing you didn't mention was the varieties you will be cutting. A 362 runs a 25 ok, but it definitely likes a 20 better. BTW, I'm 5'10", so there's a difference there. Hope this helps, Jeff
 
Just run a 20 until you absolutely need the 25. If you need a 25 way more often, get a bigger saw, or that one worked over by a pro off the site here.

Very nice post and easy question.
 
I'm about your size (just a bit heavier) and I do most of my cutting with a 20" bar. Out where I'm at there is a lot of brush so I find it a bit easier to get around with the shorter bar. With the saws I use, 18 or 20 inch bars seem to balance out better. It does mean you will have to do more bending, but at 6'4" you are going to have to bend anyway.

Agreed...
I'm 6'5" and am not a huge fan of poorly balanced saws...
20" would be my choice for that saw. Horribly snout heavy with a 25".
The oiler would be in question I would think also.
If I have ground work to do, I just take a knee...
 
Whew

All that writing for one saw? Enjoy your new saw regardless of which bar you have on it. If things go as they usually do around here, you will be getting it ported sooner or later. Then it will be time for a 660 and the saws just keep multiplying. You are lucky to have a good dealer nearby. Enjoy your new saw and be safe. :clap:
 
20" bar with 3/8" pitch chain should be just right for an MS362. My guess is that is how most of them go out the dealer's door. It'll handle and oil a 25" fine as well when needed. I think you will find the 20" bar will do most of what your Echo won't and the 25" bar may not be needed initially. Get the new saw, use it some, and THEN make decisions on a longer bar because you may be better off picking up a used larger saw for the big cuts. (a 25" bar is really 24" so only about 4" more than the 20. So it isn't that big of a step). A year from now you'll have 9 saws. (don't believe it? stick around)
 
Since you are getting both bars just work with them and develop your own preference. I have both bars and two 362s. I'm shorter than you but for small stuff on the ground (8" or less) I prefer the longer bar as I typically back bar such (I prefer the MAC 28" bar - actually only about 2" longer than the Stihl 25" - but it won't fit the Stihl). As to performance the 362 will cut noticeably better with the 20" in any wood above a few inches. The 362 will also balance better with the shorter bar. Nevertheless IMO bar size is pretty much a personal preference matter. As to saw size - for the average cutter who fells the trees, I think saw size should normally be determined by what you fall not by what you buck. Seldom will an underpowered saw put you in danger bucking in ideal conditions, but falling is a different animal. Enjoy your 362. They aren't hotrods but they are good saws. Ron
 
I have a 362 with 20 and 25 inch bars. It is a great saw but much more comfortable with the 20". I may be different than some but I feel a saw should only carry (full time) a bar it can command when fully buried in the type of wood you cut. Overloading and bogging the saw doesn't feel right to me. Personally I would never consider a longer bar to avoid bending over, but I don't have a serious back condition either. Skip link chain helps when cutting hardwood with the 25". Of course we have individual habits and concerns like chain sharpening skills, time and condition between sharpening, depth of rakers, tune of the saw, clean filters, pressure on the bar in the cut, etc. As rwoods said, personal preference.
 
Agreed...
I'm 6'5" and am not a huge fan of poorly balanced saws...
20" would be my choice for that saw. Horribly snout heavy with a 25".
The oiler would be in question I would think also.
If I have ground work to do, I just take a knee...

Even 20" is longer than ideal imo, and 25" should be used only when really needed.
 
I found the 034 balanced perfect with a 20. That's what I recommend. Yours should balance the same.

Around here it seems 80% of the old magnesium felling saws have 28" bars. For bigger saws I think that's about perfect. Not too unwieldy, but long enough for serious work, and not much bending.
 
Even 20" is longer than ideal imo, and 25" should be used only when really needed.
Troll just sold me on the idea of buying that 046 I turned down last week. It would fill the gap nicely between my 361 and my 660.

Wait a minute! That's why I installed a BBK on my Makita when I restored it. Am I going saw crazy? :msp_wink:
 
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