Need sharpening advice

[livemusic]

Am using a Dremel and really like it, it's fast and effective. But sometimes I put a newly sharpened chain on and the saw will tend to cut right. Another time, a chain might cut left. Say it cuts right and there's nothing wrong with the bar. I sharpen the cutters on the left. But as a general sharpening question, how can one sharpen from the getgo to get a chain that cuts straight? I have a caliper, do the teeth need to be same length? And, yes, I am aware of depth gauges. I take them down sometimes. Mostly this is 3/8 full chisel chain for Stihl saws.

 

[huskihl]

With a progressive raker gauge, they do not need to be the same length to cut straight.
If it cuts left, either your right cutters are more dull, right rakers are higher, or your left rakers are low. Your right cutters could be sharp as a razor, but if the rakers are too high it will still cut to the left

 

[link]

Am using a Dremel and really like it, it's fast and effective. But sometimes I put a newly sharpened chain on and the saw will tend to cut right. Another time, a chain might cut left. Say it cuts right and there's nothing wrong with the bar. I sharpen the cutters on the left. But as a general sharpening question, how can one sharpen from the getgo to get a chain that cuts straight? I have a caliper, do the teeth need to be same length? And, yes, I am aware of depth gauges. I take them down sometimes. Mostly this is 3/8 full chisel chain for Stihl saws.

Thats a cloth dipped in cool water applied...

 

[Evan]

Yes progressive raker gauge.

 

[Franny K]

Are you using the Dremel kit properly shimmed for the chain? One would need good vision and great hand to eye coordination to just use the stone cylinder the size of the recommended file.

 

[J D]

Need to see some good close up pic's of your sharpened chain.
As Franny mentioned, the stone needs to be held consistently at the same height much like a file. If your letting it drop into the gullet too far or not enough the top plate cutting angle will be considerably different causing what you describe. If you sharpen alternate cutters from either side of the bar the rotation of the dremel will mean the stone naturally pulls down sharpening one side & up on the other

 

[livemusic]

Are you using the Dremel kit properly shimmed for the chain? One would need good vision and great hand to eye coordination to just use the stone cylinder the size of the recommended file.

No, have just been doing it by hand, I don't have a Dremel attachment. I read negative reviews on that, maybe others think it's good?

I have never been great at sharpening. And have the Pferd and Stihl 2n1 tools, I never have liked them much. I have had more luck out of the Dremel than anything I have tried and it is super fast. I am not satisfied yet, no, but I have cut a boatload of big oak logs using the Dremel and that has made me happy! A dealer charges $7 and they don't touch the depth gauges. Or I could mail them off for $12+ each and they would probably be good but doing it myself is not only cheaper but faster because it would take 2-3 weeks mailorder.

 

[Franny K]

like I quote from above "If you sharpen alternate cutters from either side of the bar the rotation of the dremel will mean the stone naturally pulls down sharpening one side & up on the other"

I did not realize this above, but the guide was going to be necessary was my impression right away. Or the only use for the stones or diamond cylinders would be to break through a hard spot where the file did not seem to cut right. You have to buy a kit with the lawn mower blade sharpening guide as well.

The www.razzorsharp.com guy did a great job of making chains uniform not taking off more than necessary. Their pricing has changed to favor longer loops since then. Many on here state they make the chains better than new but I expect most folks the more times sharpened the more different from new.

 

[SteveSr]

No, have just been doing it by hand, I don't have a Dremel attachment. I read negative reviews on that, maybe others think it's good?

I have never been great at sharpening. And have the Pferd and Stihl 2n1 tools, I never have liked them much. I have had more luck out of the Dremel than anything I have tried and it is super fast. I am not satisfied yet, no, but I have cut a boatload of big oak logs using the Dremel and that has made me happy! A dealer charges $7 and they don't touch the depth gauges. Or I could mail them off for $12+ each and they would probably be good but doing it myself is not only cheaper but faster because it would take 2-3 weeks mailorder.

The issue I found with the Dremel type sharpeners is that the stone runs backwards rotating into the tooth rather than away from it.. Since the stones and the chuck likely have some runout this makes the stones want to jump over (and ruin) the tooth that you just sharpened!

I did buy and use the 12v Oregon version that has the depth guide with it. On this one to get the correct rotation direction you can change the battery/power polarity.

BTW, you can also use diamond hones in place of grinding stones. While they provide a very smooth finish they tend to leave a large burr on the cutting edge.

 

[Evan]

The hand can compensate for tool Rotation the same as a foot lets off gas more when roads are icey.
What noone lets off the gas they just crash trying to go 90.

A select few can learn maybe you guys are a few of the select or maybe you just crash.

 

[huskihl]

The issue I found with the Dremel type sharpeners is that the stone runs backwards rotating into the tooth rather than away from it.. Since the stones and the chuck likely have some runout this makes the stones want to jump over (and ruin) the tooth that you just sharpened!

I did buy and use the 12v Oregon version that has the depth guide with it. On this one to get the correct rotation direction you can change the battery/power polarity.

BTW, you can also use diamond hones in place of grinding stones. While they provide a very smooth finish they tens to leave a large burr on the cutting edge.

Sharpen from the other side

 

[gggGary]

Full disclaimer I'm not a pro, but a couple "now and then" type guys bring me their chains.
I've been dremel sharpening for decades. I do both sides from the same side of the blade.
My video.

I have angle guides marked on my bench.
It is a bit of an art;
keeping the dremel level
at the proper angle to teeth or bench guide lines
and watching top angle on the tooth (up, down pressure)
moving the tool back and forth to keep stone wear even
That's a lot of balls in the air at the same time.
If I have a couple of rocked teeth I don't hang out on them (heat) go back later fora bit more sharpening if needed.
I just use a worn stone to cut back the rakers, mebby 2-3 times over the life of a chain, M/L eyeballing. I'm not worried about all teeth being the same "length" just a fairly even raker to tooth height on all the teeth.
most common issues with cutting curves?
rocked teeth on one side of the chain not fully sharpened.
once things are loose (worn) keep a closer eye on how you are handling the saw, it's easier than you'd think to be applying side pressure, causing curve.
eventually the bar slot wears enough that chain rocking is a thing.
As the teeth are filed back the amount they clear the side of the bar decreases, at the same time the tangs are wearing making more clearance in the slot.

Story; while cutting in a tornado clean up group, a leader and "file guy" decided to school me on my chain sharpening, about 10 teeth in on my chain, he looked up at me kinda puzzled and was; um yeah you got good sharpening technique, you're good.

 

[psc1947]

Dumbest answer you'll get all day. Screw up. Overdo, underdo, do everything wrong. See how bad one thing works vs another. See what fixes it. I'd gladly invest in $100 worth of chains for invaluable lessons. Paid $50 once for Ag-Pro to ruin $150 worth of chains. A kid with a $900 sharpener can do more damage than you ever could. (Here's where I insert the obligatory safety spiel).