Need to rebuild 038 magnum

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I’m coming to Beverly NJ in couple weeks if your near there I could swing by. I have to cut a old locust tree down in my kids front yard. I’ll have the magnum with me if you want a reference. I’ve rebuilt mine top to bottom
I made mine out of the side of an aluminum can, rolled up, works pretty good..
 
I’m coming to Beverly NJ in couple weeks if your near there I could swing by. I have to cut a old locust tree down in my kids front yard. I’ll have the magnum with me if you want a reference. I’ve rebuilt mine top to bottom
Jeffery, really appreciate your very kind offer but i am over 2 hours away...steve
 
when researching thru the forum i run into threads like this one where all the pics are gone...is this a normal thing because its an old thread???
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/stihl-038-av-magnum-rebuild.144271/
Eight years ago or so the site was hacked and, most likely due to negligent maintenance of good backups, all photos were lost. A very few have been re-uploaded but the vast majority are gone forever. See
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/old-pictures-gone.247182/
 
still waiting for pump...been looking for stihl oem parts online to no avail...so i guess my only choice is to go to a dealer? is there a part number for the gasket and seal set or just ask for it hoping they order the right one??? going to make a list of the rubber parts...just change out the oil pump while i am in there??? the chain oil always leaks...is that a thing or a bad seal somewhere???
 
the chain oil always leaks...is that a thing or a bad seal somewhere???
Whether b&c oil leakage needs remediation is mostly a matter of degree. I've encountered virtually no saws that don't leave at least a small record of their presence. However, when the saw can go from full oil tank to empty in a week while sitting in one place you know there is a problem. If you think the amount of leakage is excessive, go ahead and look for causes - missing or broken down rubber/sealing parts are common causes. Storing saws where the temperature makes regular swings between cold and hot can also pressure changes in the tank resulting in oil getting pushed out.
 
Whether b&c oil leakage needs remediation is mostly a matter of degree. I've encountered virtually no saws that don't leave at least a small record of their presence. However, when the saw can go from full oil tank to empty in a week while sitting in one place you know there is a problem. If you think the amount of leakage is excessive, go ahead and look for causes - missing or broken down rubber/sealing parts are common causes. Storing saws where the temperature makes regular swings between cold and hot can also pressure changes in the tank resulting in oil getting pushed out.
it was really bad when i got lazy and used reg motor oil when i ran our of the correct oil and it leaked like a seive till i went back to chain oil...it is much much less now but still leaves its mark like you said...
 
still waiting for pump...been looking for stihl oem parts online to no avail...so i guess my only choice is to go to a dealer? is there a part number for the gasket and seal set or just ask for it hoping they order the right one??? going to make a list of the rubber parts...just change out the oil pump while i am in there??? the chain oil always leaks...is that a thing or a bad seal somewhere???
Stihl 038 IPL has gasket set part # 1119 007 1050

Take oil pump apart and inspect piston and body, if they are OK simple to fix.
 

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Hello again all...life got in the way...first pump was doa...second got lost...have the third...put the muffler back on with rubber gasket material and am removing the cab to do the same...is there a trick to removing the linkage to the trigger without bending it???
 
Hello again all...life got in the way...first pump was doa...second got lost...have the third...put the muffler back on with rubber gasket material and am removing the cab to do the same...is there a trick to removing the linkage to the trigger without bending it???
Pretty sure that model requires you to remove the black cover on the rear handle to release the throttle.
 
You don't need to remove the rear handle cover.
Just push the carb command up and gently disengage the linkage.
 
found a real long thin needle nose pliers and popped it off...alot more resilient than i thought it was...so muffler back on with rubber...carb back on with rubber...pump to the impulse hoes.....absolutely nothing at all...put my finger on the pump it works fine...where does the impulse hose go to ...thoughts?
 
ok....found the other hose...figuring this is the one...only other one i can find????
 

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ok....found the other hose...figuring this is the one...only other one i can find????
One side of the impulse hose is connected to the cranckase and the other on the tank housing.
On your pic we can see the tank housing connection.
 
One side of the impulse hose is connected to the cranckase and the other on the tank housing.
On your pic we can see the tank housing connection.
Thanks! I put the pump on that end and get no pressure or vacuum at all on the pump...will have to redo my rubber pieces on carb and muffler...plug is back in...what am i missing?
 
First check the impulse line. Maybe she is disconnected to the cranckcase or she has some cracks.
Check also the carb boot for cracks.
If your carb boot, impulse line, muffler and carb rubber pieces looks ok so you have a major air leak on oil seals. To rule out oils seal put grease on the seals and do a vaccum test. Vaccum will suck the grease.
 
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