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waynedb

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Hi All,

I promised in another thread a while ago that I'd report back on a CSM re-build project I was undertaking....It's taken a lot longer than I'd hoped (day-job, kids, bushfires, pandemics etc), but I finished it a few weeks ago and so below are a few pics of the build.

I had been struggling with a cheap Alaskan mill for a while before I realised some aluminium castings were out of square, making it frustratingly difficult to clamp the bar flat. Hence the rebuild. For this build I replaced everything except the main 't-slot' aluminium rails and the handle. It's a lot easier to set-up and adjust than the cheap-original and feels a lot more solid. It's also slightly heavier.

Features of note include:
  • MS660 clone power head
  • 50" 3/8 GB 'Extra Long' bar
  • Carlton skip-tooth semi-chisel 0.63 ripping chain (10 degree top plate filing angle and progressive raker-angle filing)
  • 1170mm max cut capacity
  • 350mm max slab depth
  • Heavy-duty T-slot aluminium thickness adjustment carriages
  • Steel thickness adjustment risers (bolted to T-slot ali carriages)
  • Through-bar bolted mounting (2 x 6mm bolts at power-head end 1 x 6mm bolt through sprocket bearing centre)
  • UHMW strips under the rails for low friction sliding
  • Tach and Cylinder-head temperature gauges
  • Simple auxiliary oiler with 1/4 turn valve
  • Adjustable nylon roller guides (can be positioned above or below the bar and also adjustable relative angle)
The only other things I'm considering doing with it are adding some scale tapes down the side of the thickness adjustment risers and/or some indexing plungers (indexed at maybe 25mm increments) to make thickness adjustment a bit quicker/easier.

Finally, a nod of acknowledgement to BobL, whose mill builds gave me some ideas for my own.

Drilling the bar
Drilling Bar.png
(I broke about 5 bits drilling the sprocket bearing, including a rather expensive solid carbide end mill - in the end a relatively cheap tungsten-carbide-tipped multi-purpose bit did the job)

Building the thickness adjustment/bar-mount/roller guide assemblies
Building the thickness adjustment assemblies.png
Finished Mill
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Completed overall pics 2.png

(testing on a little eucalyptus log I had lying around)
Completed Detail Pics.png
 

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Can you go into deatail on your oiler .......... is it through the vertical and into the sprocket ?
 
At this stage the oiler is just a 500ml bottle of canola oil cable-tied to the riser post. It has a little 1/4" brass 1/4-turn valve and some plastic tubing and a rubber grommet seal. At the moment it just drips on to the surface of the bar near the cutting edge and runs onto the chain. Simple, but it works.

I did consider drilling an oiling bolt in to deliver oil directly into the groove, but it seemed more trouble than it's worth...

I'm happy to hear opinions to the contrary...
 
Drip works great for me too

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Here is my son making a run, giving the old man a needed water break. Aux oiler is just zip tied to the vertical too ............... works great, but I've got a few spares on order from Granburg to mount it rigidly to the verticalNNQI1196.JPG
 
Yeah, I want to mount mine more permanently too. I'll come up with something. Copper pipe is a good idea.

Great pic of your son on the saw....what is that you're milling?

Weather permitting I'm hoping to tackle a big red gum this weekend - I'll post a few pics of the new build in action...
 
Couple of tips.

See if you can get the log up off the ground so there's no need to kneel in the sawdust. Much easier on back, shoulders and arms.

Bicycle handle bar stem mounts make really good right hand handles, Putting them on the long cross handle makes then higher so's there's less need to crouch down low.

wholemill.jpg
 
Couple of tips.

See if you can get the log up off the ground so there's no need to kneel in the sawdust. Much easier on back, shoulders and arms.

Bicycle handle bar stem mounts make really good right hand handles, Putting them on the long cross handle makes then higher so's there's less need to crouch down low.
I had to use 2 jacks to get that stick into that position, and was happy just to have been able to mill it without cutting it's length down to less than 11'6"
Its friggin brutally heavy !!
Yeah, I want to mount mine more permanently too. I'll come up with something. Copper pipe is a good idea.

Great pic of your son on the saw....what is that you're milling?

Weather permitting I'm hoping to tackle a big red gum this weekend - I'll post a few pics of the new build in action...
Was just over 40" diameter at the felling cut. That stick in the picture is 32" diameter at the small end. She's white oak, felled just as the buds were opening, so its LOADED with water weight. Milled the boards to 2.5" thick.

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Beautiful timber! Nice work.

I like the bike bits Bob - good idea. Funny you should mention lifting logs...my next project is a "log lifter" setup to go on my hi-lift jack - similar to the one you've posted about around here somewhere. I'll post a few pics when it's done (could take a while)

Bob - what is the purpose of the occy-strap running between your riser posts?
 
I believe its so his very nice threaded height adjusters dont "walk" on him mid cut
 
Ah, I see.

I have to admit, adjusting the height on my mill is not as quick and easy as I'd like it to be. I've been thinking about adding something like this (spring indexing plunger):

1591189521552.png

I figure I could mount it as indicated below and drill holes at maybe 25mm intervals, or just at common slab widths so the risers will just 'snap' into set positions automatically...

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hard to justify the ~AU$35 it'll cost me per post for what is a really a minor convenience though! Tip-tapping and measuring works fine, I'd just rather be cutting!
 

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Nice work. I always thought it was something I was doing with my Alaskan mk3 but after watching a YouTube vid where the guy had the same trouble and it turns out my castings were out of square as well. Very frustrating as there’s enough to be done to clean them up and dimension them without introducing cupping or twists.
 
I've not seen the panther mills before, very nice!!! Thanks for sharing. They are a slick looking unit - the rack and pinion idea is great...

Not a small job, but has me thinking...I might be able to find something off the shelf and weld it on to my risers...I'm not set up to make it from scratch.

tfp - I find it bizzare that the castings were out if square!!! Amazing really - it would take effort to mess up something so fundamental!
 
Thanks for the tip - I did a bit of searching and I don't think it will be too hard finding something locally. I'm starting to think it might be more bother than it's worth though as my powerhead and bar-tip end risers aren't the same width. The one at the powerhead is 80mm and the nose-tip riser is 40mm - hence the handle bar won't be the same distance from the risers - it would be doable with a spacer of some kind behind the nose-end rack gear to push it out, but I suspect it would be more work than I have time for at the moment.

For now I think I'll settle for some scale tape on the side of the risers...it's not that difficult to adjust each end!

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...The new mill got a good run this weekend on a 3.9m length of 1m diameter redgum - nothing fell off! I was really happy with the mill with the exception of the adjustable rollers. The 25mm x 2mm SHS that clamps around the 12mm round bar just didn't give enough clamping force/friction to hold the wheel arms in place. They'd hold for a while but slowly splay out under pressure from the saw pulling into the cut. I think the best solution at this point is to follow BobL's lead and use some solid square bar and up the bolt size from M6 to M8 to give a bit more surface area and clamping force - that should do it.

Here are a couple of pics of the roller setup...

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and the mill in action:

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