"New" Makita EA6100 Questions

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rta01

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This is quite a long post, but figured I'd give you all the details up front.

Backstory:

Homeowner with ~6.5 acres. Clearing overgrown areas - mainly sweetgum and privet, but some are quite large. Had my father's MS 250 and bought a MS 192. (Love the 192 for its light weight for trimming up and found it to be incredibly capable for its size.) Neither of these saws were big enough to handle the size of some of the trees I was dealing with.

Ended up buying a used Home Depot rental, Makita DCS6421 - 20", several years ago. Needed some initial love, but has worked well. Put 24" bar on for some of the bigger trees. Recently started leaking (really pouring out) fuel. Found it to be the flywheel side seal. Replaced the seal and the leak stopped for a very short while, but started again same place. New seal was destroyed. Found crankshaft to be wobbly. Bearing shot. Plan to completely rebuild with big bore. Do I really need this big of a saw? No, but, ..... well, you know. But still need a bigger saw than the Stihls to keep working on property now.

Started looking at HD rentals again. Bought a Makita EA6100 - 20", manufacture date June 2018. Was a little surprised they had changed models and a little disappointed that the size was down a little, but figured it would still be a good saw. Got it home and attempted to put the 24' bar on it, but found the adjustment pin did not line up, so ordered a new 24" bar that was correct for the saw. Went back to the "stock" Makita 20" bar and took it out for a test drive. Cut some pretty sizable stumps off - none bigger than the 20" bar, though. After cutting off about 3, noticed the chain was bone dry. Thought I had a saw that the oiling setup was messed up. I had filled it with oil before I started. Checked the oil reservoir and it was down by half, so the oil was going somewhere. Ran it to check for slinging oil, and it was not, but oil was running down the side of the bar, so it was obviously pumping oil. Put it up at that point figuring I would clean and check the bar out later. Other than the oiling, very impressed with the "new" saw. Started easy. Ran good. Cut good.

In the mean time the new 24' bar arrived. Decided just to change over to it. Just for fun, compared the new bar to the "stock" bar. Found the "stock" bar oil hole was about 3/4" up from the mounting slot and the new bar was about 3/8". Explains why the bar wasn't getting oil. Looked at the "stock" bar part number. Found that the rental maintenance experts had put a 6421 bar on the 6100. Compared it to my old 20" and 24" bars I had for my 6421 and sure enough, they matched. So, ordered a new, correct, 20" bar. Decided I should look a little closer to see if anything else was amiss. Wasn't too concerned since the saw ran so well. Found the chain catch at the bottom was missing. Found one screw missing from the chain brake cover. Also found summer/winter insert was set to block airflow. Not sure how necessary that was for Georgia summers. I flipped it around.

Now for the problem:

I put the 24" bar on and took it to work on some of the bigger stumps. Worked good until the full bar length was in the stump. Then it the chain would bog down and quit turning. I could back the saw of the cut a little and it would start back up, but as soon as fully back in the chain would stop. Sometimes the saw would stall, but most of the time the chain just quit turning. Tried just cutting logs and limbs and that seemed to do fine. So, a little disappointed and concerned that saw won't fully perform with a 24" bar.

What I've checked/done:
Spark plug looks OK, not great - will be getting new.
With plug out, top of cylinder looked pretty carboned up. Light treatment with Seafoam. Have not checked again.
Spark arrestor - dirty but not clogged, cleaned anyway.
Cleaned air filter
Pulled muffler to check piston/cylinder - they were pristine.

What I have not done:
checked/changed fuel filter - will do as soon as I get one
adjusted carb - running pretty good, not sure it needs it, don't necessarily want to mess with a good thing. Smokes a little
checked compression

My questions for those that know a lot more about this than me - especially EA6100 users:
Do I really have a problem - carb, clutch, or something else?
Will the 6100 handle a 24" bar/chain?
Would switching to a skip chain allow using 24"?

Any/all help or ideas appreciated.
 
The 6100 will handle a 24" combo no problem it's got gobs of low down grunty torque and 4.6hp. mine will without any issues cut 20" rings of sycamore etc over here in the UK. The mounts are K095 which you need to allow all the oiler output to line up on the bar. I'll let others chime in with fault diagnosis as I'm off to bed.

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You could be experiencing the effects of chips clogging in the sprocket, making the chain so tight it does not want to go around. Skip chain would be preferable if this is the case. Just using a portion of the bar, say using the nose end in the hope chips stay away from the sprocket.

It has a plastic piece that clamps the bar with small metal inserts. Not a good set up to run bars with a wider slot and adapters.
 
May be dumb, but how does the saw cut with the 24 bucking into a log? Does it slow down when buried like in the stump?

If you are cutting stumps, have you tried a wedge behind your bar to take the vertical weight load off the bar? What’s your chain looking like? Are you oiling properly now (I missed that)?
 
Don't have a big enough log to totally bury the 24", but it bucks logs fine. Yes, I did wedge the stump (first thing I thought of.) Oiling fine now that I have the correct bar.
More info - went back to the 20" bar (new, correct, Oregon Powercut) yesterday and and cut off a pretty big stump with very little problem. Had to work my way around. Chain stalled just a couple of times, but nothing like with the 24" bar.
Based on Adam08's post above saying it should handle 24" fine, I'm going to look at the drum and clutch this morning.

Thanks for the ideas.
 
Maaaybe found the problem:
ea6100 Clutch.jpg
Don't know that I've ever seen rust like this in a clutch or clutch drum. Of course, I haven't been inside THAT many chainsaws. Is this normal?
 
Pretty much I am still a novice around here, and not a pro at any of this, but from a mechanical viewpoint, I would bet dollars to doughnuts that a new clutch & drum would probably make a huge difference. You could try soaking the clutch & drum in power blaster or equivalent over night, then clean completely with brake cleaner & compressed air, then use some 180 or 200 grit emery cloth to revive the surface of the clutch and mating surface of the drum, clean again, re-grease the needle bearings & give it another try. I am betting you will find a big difference. How do the sprocket teeth look on the drum?
 
Pretty much I am still a novice around here, and not a pro at any of this, but from a mechanical viewpoint, I would bet dollars to doughnuts that a new clutch & drum would probably make a huge difference. You could try soaking the clutch & drum in power blaster or equivalent over night, then clean completely with brake cleaner & compressed air, then use some 180 or 200 grit emery cloth to revive the surface of the clutch and mating surface of the drum, clean again, re-grease the needle bearings & give it another try. I am betting you will find a big difference. How do the sprocket teeth look on the drum?
Along the same lines I was thinking. May just get new drum and clutch - they're only 25-30 apiece, and if I have to take the clutch off anyway ....
This saw has a rim sprocket, doesn't look bad, but as long as I'm replacing things
 
How does the actual shaft look? Those needle bearings and the whole area looks dry beyond belief. Not sure what has gone on there to be that rusty.

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How does the actual shaft look? Those needle bearings and the whole area looks dry beyond belief. Not sure what has gone on there to be that rusty.

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Didn't look that closely at the shaft. The only thing I can figure is the saw had been run for a long time with that wrong bar so it wasn't oiling properly. So the sprocket and clutch drum area was getting no oil at all. Home Depot changes the chain on saws after every rental, regardless of how long the rental was for or how much use it appears to have had. That practice sort of eliminates seeing any oiling problems with the chain.

Is the hole at the end of the shaft on this saw a grease port? The manual doesn't say anything about it, but it looks pretty deep - not just a dimple.
 
Latest update: New clutch, new needle bearing for the drum, new rim sprocket. Lubed the bearing up on install. No real change on 24" performance. When cutting a stump that requires full bar/chain length have to baby it through or it stalls out. Cuts fine otherwise. And, it cuts like a demon with a 20" bar. About the only thing I'm left with is the carb needs a good clean, but it runs so well otherwise I"m sort of doubting that. Got a rebuild kit on order - won't hurt anything to try - probably needs it anyway with two years of Home Depot service running who knows what kind of fuel and mix.

My general final conclusion is that the 6100 is just not quite big enough to handle "full use" of a 24" setup. That's sort of confirmed by the owners and parts manual only showing 18" and 20" bars.
 
In my experience, stumping puts a bigger load on the saw. I don’t know why. Even when using a wedge it always seems to be harder on the saw (no matter what size saw I use). Could it be more grit in the wood (dulling the chain), the wood is more dense, or is just the weight of the stump? I do know that if you dig down below the ground level you will never get a clean enough stump to keep the saw happy!
 
I did put a carb gasket kit in it and clean the carb. Have not put it back in a stump with the 24" bar, though to see if that made a difference.
 

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