New saw for cutting Australian hardwoods

[Vir1dis]

Hey everyone, I currently own a Jonsered 2150 and am looking at getting another saw.
I want something that has the power for felling and bucking ironbark, and different types of gum.
This is would be used every so often and not weekly.

Most of the stuff would probably be sub 40cm diameter.

I was comparing the Husqvarna's 550XP mark2, with the 562XP, and 572XP, and Stihl's MS 400 C-M , all with a 20" bar.

Have they fixed all the issues with the 562XP? And what year is the latest 562XP regaing changes?

I am assuming the 550XP would be under powered.
I was thinking having a 20" bar on the 572XP to keep the revs up in the dense wood so that the chain remains well lubricated.

I want a pro saw over a home owners for the reduced vibration, and one that will last me decades with good maintaining.

Thanks

 

[Rabid K9]

500i. All bases covered.

If vibration is primary concern, the 500 will be several kms ahead of the 572, plus a lot more power & chain speed.

 

[ericm979]

With a pro saw you can turn up the oil pump for more oil.

We have (introduced) blue gum here and I've cut some. For a 20" bar I'd go with a 60cc class saw, mostly for the lighter weight and easier handling. I have a MS362 but if I were buying now I'd get a MS400. I don't know what in the Husky line that equates to.

 

[Vir1dis]

500i. All bases covered.

If vibration is primary concern, the 500 will be several kms ahead of the 572, plus a lot more power & chain speed.

I do like that it's 80cc has the same 6.5kg weight as the Husky 70cc, yet the $$$ is a bit out of my reach.
Does it have the same fuel and oil caps that their smaller saws have? The quater turn ones that apparently leak?

Thank you

 

[Vir1dis]

With a pro saw you can turn up the oil pump for more oil.

We have (introduced) blue gum here and I've cut some. For a 20" bar I'd go with a 60cc class saw, mostly for the lighter weight and easier handling. I have a MS362 but if I were buying now I'd get a MS400. I don't know what in the Husky line that equates to.

Thankyou for your input, since writing the post I have been more leaning towards the 60cc and your response has made me more confident with that size. The current Husky 60cc pro model is the 562XP.
I am now trying to research now as much as I can on that to see if they have ironed out most of the creases and to see if it is as reliable as their models.

Thanks again.

 

[Vir1dis]

I have also been looking at the MS 400 C-M, so I am now more so weighing up the 400 with the 562XP.
Anyone used them both?
Is the Stihl sacrificing much to produce a lighter saw?
Which one has the better oiler?

 

[Rabid K9]

I do like that it's 80cc has the same 6.5kg weight as the Husky 70cc, yet the $$$ is a bit out of my reach.
Does it have the same fuel and oil caps that their smaller saws have? The quater turn ones that apparently leak?

Thank you

The 500 has the same caps, bar oil leaking when is storage does occur (not fuel), but a small price for the increased performance in all other areas.

Rarely use Husqvarna saws, but recently put the 572XP head to head with a 500i when doing a few days with a friend who runs all Husky saws in his business.

Not even comparable, in my opinion, the vibration alone is enough to discount the Husky. Was shocked, after a few minutes use, felt like using Stihl saws of twenty years ago. The 500 is a lightweight animal, so much better on your body.

Stihl MS462 is another hardworking, high performance little beast for bucking small & mid size hardwood.

 

[GoldField]

For what it is worth, we had a storm come thru New Year's Eve which brought down quite a bit of blue gum. I used a 562xp with a 24" bar for the clean up. I had the 562xp buried in 30"+ fresh blue gum and it handled it fine. However, I was thinking I would rather have had a 572xp or a 500 for the job, especially if it had been some of the dead blue gum that turns to cement. This is not a knock on the 562. Rather it is just an acknowledgment as to which saw is more appropriate for the type and amount of wood that I need to deal with.

Regarding the 562xp, I had a hot start issue with it one time a few years ago. It was at the end of a hot day and I couldn't get it to restart after several tanks of fuel through it during the day. Next day it started up and has done so ever since. After reading up on it, it was suggested to let the saw idle for 15 seconds or so before shutting it down in hot weather (not certain as to why). I have done this ever since, and as previously stated, I have never had a hot start issue again (I'm not claiming that this is a solution to a hot start issue either, but I do it just in case it is).

 

[ericm979]

I have also been looking at the MS 400 C-M, so I am now more so weighing up the 400 with the 562XP.
Anyone used them both?
Is the Stihl sacrificing much to produce a lighter saw?
Which one has the better oiler?

The 400's oil pump output can be increased with parts from a different Stihl. I forget which but it's been covered on this forum. MS440? I did a similar mod to my MS460. You can either replace the entire pump or you can replace the piston and another part, which costs less but requires disassembling the pump. I did the latter and it was not difficult.

 

[datman]

Echo/shindaiwa 7310 is a good saw option. With a muffler mod you will have more than enough power. Stihl have always had the worst air filtration, although the 500i is an excellent, but expensive saw. The 572 I hear are super reliable and the 562 have ironed out the bugs. They are both computer controlled carbs thats why its a good idea to let it ''learn'' to idle hot befor shutting down. My main saws are a 55 rancher and a 390xp, both saws I love for different reasons. A good condition 372 will have enough power to cut anything you want as well and lots of aftermarket for them. I have never heard anyone complain about the vibration of a Husky before, but then again my arms arn't made of glass. Happy choosing.

 

[datman]

P.S. A good sharp chain with well adjusted rakers goes a long way to cutting ability and saw logevity. I've seen guys with smoke coming off their chains they are so blunt and others jamming their saws every 3 seconds because their rakers are too low. A 60 cc saw with a sharp chain will out cut a more powerful saw with a blunt chain, and will last longer.

 

[Vir1dis]

P.S. A good sharp chain with well adjusted rakers goes a long way to cutting ability and saw logevity. I've seen guys with smoke coming off their chains they are so blunt and others jamming their saws every 3 seconds because their rakers are too low. A 60 cc saw with a sharp chain will out cut a more powerful saw with a blunt chain, and will last longer.

When I got my Jonsered 2150 serviced last I didn't check the saw and just started cutting.... I had smoke come off my chain, yet the oil was being used.
When I went to flip the bar I noticed they installed a bar on the lacked the oiler holes that my saw requires, the also had thrown a .063gauge bar on with and .058 chain, which explained the flimsy cuts.
They also replaced the fuel filter with one that was recommended for 30 something cc and lower, the 2150 being a 50cc.
I now am learning to do things myself now as my faith in mechanics isn't where it was.
They place also told me that my chainbrake was messed up, turns out someone knocked the chainbrake and didn't realise the side cover/ clutch cover whatever it's called has the brake inside. When I took the cover off for them they then flipped the brake lever forward and back saying "see it's wrecked" them still not looking at the inside of the side cover.
I haven't looked at how Stihl have theirs set up but I am assuming the chainbrake is different to some of the Husqvarna and Jonsereds.

 

[cookies]

Old school Stihl 038,o51, 045 or 056 if your going to find a builder project..they are absolute tanks with tons of torque and excellent oiling. If your going to buy a new saw any of the stihl 400 series saws is plenty of saw.

 

[datman]

When I got my Jonsered 2150 serviced last I didn't check the saw and just started cutting.... I had smoke come off my chain, yet the oil was being used.
When I went to flip the bar I noticed they installed a bar on the lacked the oiler holes that my saw requires, the also had thrown a .063gauge bar on with and .058 chain, which explained the flimsy cuts.
They also replaced the fuel filter with one that was recommended for 30 something cc and lower, the 2150 being a 50cc.
I now am learning to do things myself now as my faith in mechanics isn't where it was.
They place also told me that my chainbrake was messed up, turns out someone knocked the chainbrake and didn't realise the side cover/ clutch cover whatever it's called has the brake inside. When I took the cover off for them they then flipped the brake lever forward and back saying "see it's wrecked" them still not looking at the inside of the side cover.
I haven't looked at how Stihl have theirs set up but I am assuming the chainbrake is different to some of the Husqvarna and Jonsereds.

Wow, sounds like you need to go to a different dealer/mechanic. That can be another thing about choosing a saw, dealer service. You might be one brand but if the dealer sux puss it might be worth researching the other brands/dealers.

 

[jenko]

The main question is why do you want another saw? If the 2150 is underpowered you’re better off going for a 70cc + saw. I’m in Victoria and mostly cut messmate, string bark and box for firewood. I picked up a good 372 off Gumtree, ex fire service in great condition, and run that with a 20” bar mostly. Thing has plenty of grunt but still slows down in some of the bigger trees even with the small bar on it

 

[scruffy808]

Hey everyone, I currently own a Jonsered 2150 and am looking at getting another saw.
I want something that has the power for felling and bucking ironbark, and different types of gum.
This is would be used every so often and not weekly.

Most of the stuff would probably be sub 40cm diameter.

I was comparing the Husqvarna's 550XP mark2, with the 562XP, and 572XP, and Stihl's MS 400 C-M , all with a 20" bar.

Have they fixed all the issues with the 562XP? And what year is the latest 562XP regaing changes?

I am assuming the 550XP would be under powered.
I was thinking having a 20" bar on the 572XP to keep the revs up in the dense wood so that the chain remains well lubricated.

I want a pro saw over a home owners for the reduced vibration, and one that will last me decades with good maintaining.

Thanks

Mate I run MS362 on narrow leaf ironbark in Qld. Standard bar and 3/8 inch chain think its a 20 inch bar. As you say dead dry eucalypt is hard to cut but this saw sure tries hard. You could go to 0.325 chain and bar but I find not needed. Personal choice hell of a lot in right sharpening and not too aggressive with raker depth works good.