New to me 075 AV? I think....

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guysmiley

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So I got my hands on an old what I believe to be 075AV. Prior owner never ran it and from what I gathered it hasnt run in a long while. Traded a good running 034 super for it as I have been looking for a big saw to round out my chainsaw family.

So I scoured the threads and ran the serial # on it telling me it was a 1975 +/-1 year build. The badge shows no hint of a model... so going by the side oil fill, manual oiler, and presence of the taller carb mount (ends in 01 vs the stihl 051 mount which ends in 03) I am fairly certain it is an 075. Which is contrary to what the last person who ran it was thinking(was told it was an 051) but anywho.... here it is.
I looked at the piston which is in immaculate condition. I put a touch of oil in there and man it has great compression! I poured a touch of 32:1 down the carb and got it to pop. Replaced the dodgy fuel line. choked and pulled.... all bark, no run. Decomp valve works well, w/o it it has nearly dislocated my shoulder. It will run sputter and die which to me is saying no good fuel delivery so I figured a teardown of the carb and general cleanup will be the solution. A bit of pressure washing ( carb taped off) and it is much cleaner. I have ordered a new air filter base with working switch and choke lever (2 things that are kaput now) as well as a lower bushing that was shot. Everything else seems to be more or less ok. Air filter and base are there, just not pictured. Also it has a walbro WS-26A.

So I tear down the carb, clean it out with cleaner and air (everything easy like jets, needle valve etc) no holes in pump diaphragm.... I thought for sure it would run. (also it came to me L@ 5/8 turn and H@ 1 1/8 turn. I turned L to 1 turn and H to 1 1/4 and reassembled). Fuel will get sucked up to carb, I used a few splashes of fuel down the carb to hurry it up. Manually operating choke and utilizing trigger lock.... still same exact symptom but slightly better. It will come to life, idle for a second and then sputter out regardless of throttle input. Gut feeling is carb is not delivering enough fuel, maybe stretched out diaphragm so I tore it down and tweaked the metering lever to get some more fuel with no improvement. There was a brass filter housing? with an o-ring around it.... I am not familiar with that part but the o-ring does not make a great seal as it is able to just fall out if turned upside down. I did not swap the oring out. Also there is a brass screw on the outside of the carb body (if I remember correctly, will include pics later if needed) that seemed to have a sealant applied to it, I did not mess with that.

So here I am, all thoughts are welcome. I figure I couldnt go wrong with getting a new carb. Maybe a Tillitson? Good to have a backup but it would be great to get this one working. Also looks like the saw has a points delete trigger installed. With it's ability to rev up for a second until it dies I believe the ignition and compression and timing are all there. Also I am making sure kill switch wire is not grounded out during all of this.

Thanks in advance!
 

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After a bit of thought I ordered a new tillotson. I dont mind troubleshooting the carb on it but not knowing its history I figured this would be the quickest likely fix and also guarantee should it be so that the problem would be pinpointed.
 
My guess is 075. The manual oiler and position of the oil tank cap. The decomp location too.

I had one a while back, but it was an 076 super
beautiful saw! After giving it another go this morning I was able to get it running but carb settings were just wonky. Makes me feel like the diaphragm is the culprit and will get a rebuild kit after the other carb and all of the other parts arrive.
I think it will be a nice runner soon. Makes me want to learn how to powder coat :)
 
Nice, when you learn to powder coat, I have three of them needing a dose of color.
Hope it runs strong for you. Never disappointed me yet. From felling to powering an old Granberg Alaskan Jr., it is the saw!
 
Pressure and vacuum test required. Noted leaks are gaskets on intake and cylinder. Cylinder stud nuts loosen and/or srip out of case. Also crank and pump worm seals. Oil pump with bad seal and oring will fill cylinder with oil and rip your arm off.
I have a McCulloch Mac Cat that had a leaky seal from the oil pump when I bought it. After troubleshooting why it wouldn’t turn over at all, I found that the cylinder was flooded with bar oil and wouldn’t turnover at all until I pulled the plug. The cylinder and piston sure looked flawless though! I haven’t gotten around to fixing it yet. Too many project saws ahead of it. Lol!
 
So I got my hands on an old what I believe to be 075AV. Prior owner never ran it and from what I gathered it hasnt run in a long while. Traded a good running 034 super for it as I have been looking for a big saw to round out my chainsaw family.

So I scoured the threads and ran the serial # on it telling me it was a 1975 +/-1 year build. The badge shows no hint of a model... so going by the side oil fill, manual oiler, and presence of the taller carb mount (ends in 01 vs the stihl 051 mount which ends in 03) I am fairly certain it is an 075. Which is contrary to what the last person who ran it was thinking(was told it was an 051) but anywho.... here it is.
I looked at the piston which is in immaculate condition. I put a touch of oil in there and man it has great compression! I poured a touch of 32:1 down the carb and got it to pop. Replaced the dodgy fuel line. choked and pulled.... all bark, no run. Decomp valve works well, w/o it it has nearly dislocated my shoulder. It will run sputter and die which to me is saying no good fuel delivery so I figured a teardown of the carb and general cleanup will be the solution. A bit of pressure washing ( carb taped off) and it is much cleaner. I have ordered a new air filter base with working switch and choke lever (2 things that are kaput now) as well as a lower bushing that was shot. Everything else seems to be more or less ok. Air filter and base are there, just not pictured. Also it has a walbro WS-26A.

So I tear down the carb, clean it out with cleaner and air (everything easy like jets, needle valve etc) no holes in pump diaphragm.... I thought for sure it would run. (also it came to me L@ 5/8 turn and H@ 1 1/8 turn. I turned L to 1 turn and H to 1 1/4 and reassembled). Fuel will get sucked up to carb, I used a few splashes of fuel down the carb to hurry it up. Manually operating choke and utilizing trigger lock.... still same exact symptom but slightly better. It will come to life, idle for a second and then sputter out regardless of throttle input. Gut feeling is carb is not delivering enough fuel, maybe stretched out diaphragm so I tore it down and tweaked the metering lever to get some more fuel with no improvement. There was a brass filter housing? with an o-ring around it.... I am not familiar with that part but the o-ring does not make a great seal as it is able to just fall out if turned upside down. I did not swap the oring out. Also there is a brass screw on the outside of the carb body (if I remember correctly, will include pics later if needed) that seemed to have a sealant applied to it, I did not mess with that.

So here I am, all thoughts are welcome. I figure I couldnt go wrong with getting a new carb. Maybe a Tillitson? Good to have a backup but it would be great to get this one working. Also looks like the saw has a points delete trigger installed. With it's ability to rev up for a second until it dies I believe the ignition and compression and timing are all there. Also I am making sure kill switch wire is not grounded out during all of this.

Thanks in advance!
I'm not positive but it seems to me the 075's had the oil cap on top of the reservoir and the 076s had the oil cap on the side..
 
I'm not positive but it seems to me the 075's had the oil cap on top of the reservoir and the 076s had the oil cap on the side..
Serial number 5667646 on the lookup I used came back as German made 1975 +/-1 yr.

Looking at the model production dates for 1111 saws the 075 was 74-80' and 076 was 80-86'.

Must have been some differences in castings.... Oil cap on top was always an 051 thing from what I can tell so maybe when they got low on 075 cases they used 051 cases? Just spit balling.
 

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So I replaced the kill switch, choke lever/rod, lower av bushing, and the carb. It fired up but still would not give me any love. Same deal, like it was starving for fuel, there was a small window of adjustment I could get it to barely idle but any demand for fuel or rotation of saw would kill it.

Being that I eliminated carb as culprit I thought about it for a bit and thought a clogged impulse nipple might do that and sure enough.... after some small to larger wire reaming and cleaner I fired it up and it idles/revs rock solid. Stoked!!! I also got a 4' and 5' bar I need to inspect and get some chain to finish tuning it. Will maybe post a vid when its all running. I am not too familiar with these old saws.

One thing I found odd as I was going to do a vac test on it, I went to pull the exhaust and found the two plugs under the air cleaner base which plug the two access holes.... well, one was not close enough for the allen to engage let alone pull the screw out even if it did. Is this common? Given its somewhat rough shape I was tempted to take a burr and stretch the hole 1/8" over to make it work but thought Id check to see if anyone here can recall this and recommend a more proper fix.
I am still learning about saws so this stuff is kind of new to me.
 
So just to follow up, this is 100% positive an 075 as I pulled the jug and measured a 58mm bore (051 has a 52mm bore).
Unfortunately the used replacement air cleaner baseplate I sourced off of ebay unbeknownst to me had a bad warp likely due to being dropped or otherwise doinked on the top. There was about a 1/8 twist so the air filter was not sealed tight. I ran it with the 4' bar for a total of two cuts to dial in the carb and shut it off. I was not happy with the oiling so I stopped running it at the time. Next day start up was a quick run and then fouled. I looked at the air filter and found all sorts of dust from the two cuts on the INSIDE of the air filter 🤮 I looked at the impulse tube (clear) and there was bits of muck there as well.
I cleaned the carb twice and am positive the dust brought the saw down below running compression. It was old and likely needing rings anyways but it fired up and ran every time since the new carb and impuls tube cleaning until I did the two cuts. Never over leaned it and was running 32:1 fuel.
Well, going to just try rings and a new base gasket with a hone and I think I will be back in business. mainly wanted to just share the ID resolution.

Also a reminder to check your used parts!!!🙄
😬
 
Piston rings measured @ ~0.015. Some pitting and wear at ring face at upper edge but nothing that would greatly add to drop in compression. Going to cross fingers with new rings and hone with a thorough cleaning of bottom end best I can with lots of air and seafoam to try and get all of the sawdust out. Theres a bit. I really dont want to split the case...
 
when you get brand new rings put the used top ring and a new ring in the cylinder against eachother then use the piston with a ring in the top groove to set their depth square in the bore. I find on saws the end gap on rings rarely widens but their height and piston ring lands widen/deepen. If your careful the new rings can be used to measure bore wear too.
 
so I got all the parts, took all thge measurements before I cleaned it all up and reassembled. Old ring gaps upper .0156 and lower .0152, thickness .0615. Ring width @ .093. New rings gap @ .0135, width @.096 - .098 and thickness .0612. Cleaned the chips out of the bottom end starting with a hose, then lots of wd-40 and compressed air for a few rounds until I was confident water and chips were gone. Dried over wood stove and re-lubed w/ 2 stroke oil. Clean reassembly.... and..... it fired and then started acting exactly like it did when it failed.:eek:

Well, I tried the old carb, no luck. At my wits end I went back to basics and looked at spark. Wouldnt you know it, the plug is DEAD dead. New plug, fires right up and runs again. :rolleyes:

Hey, at least now I have some new rings in there :surprised3: What are the odds the old plug that came with the saw would run for the first two cuts and then after that give up the ghost after I shut it down? I tried back and forth with a different plug to make sure it was not some sort of connection issue. Absolutely no spark from that old plug now.

Now I just have to get the right plug to run it and retune the carb as I used whatever was on hand for testing. I was ready to tear my hair out on this one...
 
Ok, so it was a combination of bad plug AND bad coil wire. Shorting out where it went through the case. Had to replace that as well, tried the original plug and it fired but not for long so I switched back to another working one.

Question at this point, will a bad wire (intermittent shorting) kill a spark plug?

I also added a bead of disc brake quiet on the air filter for a better squish seal as even after decking the base it was still sucking a bit of fines.
 

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It is running great now! The one thing I need to watch is that if you long pull the starter cord it will yank it back and your fingers will hate you when it kicks over. It seems to like about a short 10" rip and letter go.

That said it has performed well in the two redwood logs I ripped after a recent storm sent a few of them over (it was quite a storm!) The oiler could be a touch better for the 4' bar but the manual button solves that. I think I may run some thinner stuff in it to try and clean it out for a tank? Cut a touch of trans fluid with the bar oil? At any rate, it is a right tractor of a saw. I will be ripping more of these soon so they are easier to move around
 

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It is running great now! The one thing I need to watch is that if you long pull the starter cord it will yank it back and your fingers will hate you when it kicks over. It seems to like about a short 10" rip and letter go.

That said it has performed well in the two redwood logs I ripped after a recent storm sent a few of them over (it was quite a storm!) The oiler could be a touch better for the 4' bar but the manual button solves that. I think I may run some thinner stuff in it to try and clean it out for a tank? Cut a touch of trans fluid with the bar oil? At any rate, it is a right tractor of a saw. I will be ripping more of these soon so they are easier to move around
G;ad yo hear it is running well now. Believe it or not, my 044 does that to me with the pull start.

Glad to hear you got some nice ripping in. You might want to add a remote oiler for the milling work. See the Milling Section of the forum.
I am torn at a saw a checked out earlier in the week. The guy won't let me take the exhaust off to see the cylinder, and he balked on my $400 and $450 offers for a saw I can't verify if it has air leaks, bad ignition, or other causes for rough starting and won't idle. It does run after tons of pulls, fiddling with the choke and gas, and prayers LOL. But it is hard to see spending his floor of $500 on an unproven OLD saw.
 
G;ad yo hear it is running well now. Believe it or not, my 044 does that to me with the pull start.

Glad to hear you got some nice ripping in. You might want to add a remote oiler for the milling work. See the Milling Section of the forum.
I am torn at a saw a checked out earlier in the week. The guy won't let me take the exhaust off to see the cylinder, and he balked on my $400 and $450 offers for a saw I can't verify if it has air leaks, bad ignition, or other causes for rough starting and won't idle. It does run after tons of pulls, fiddling with the choke and gas, and prayers LOL. But it is hard to see spending his floor of $500 on an unproven OLD saw.
Him being shifty about you checking it out screams that he has something to hide. I wouldn’t shell out $500 for something that he won’t let you inspect when you already know it has problems. I don’t care if it’s a 500i. That’s just bad business.
 
I was feeling the same sentiment. Thanks Mac Guy 81.
I told him, if he had it running and sorted out to start up nicely to let me know.
Other than I did run it a few times with him, I still felt unsure about it after leaving him on Monday. Of course he dropped his price from $650 to $600 before I left. Today, he did say $500 was the lowest he could go after reiterating that I did see it run...
 
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