New to site, hope to start milling soon

Eckie

Eckie

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Yes, Travis tried it. But i have always wondered how he got to 95.....its a real long ways from johnson city tn to 95.... Might be why he got caught haha
 
MontanaTed

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Dogs are definitely off. Max pretty much for that bar. I’m staying in front of the sprocket nose. I’m going to make a new one, my 075 has a wider bar and I’m thinking this one is a touch close if the chain gets close, I always cut clearances too tight when building stuff, this is my first so the next one will be better, I can go long as I want with this mill tho, might try it tho on the 075, got me thinking about it now, it’s got about .500 or so clearance from the chain to the bolts on the 075, I plan on bolting my mill on the next one, that’s what I did with my 90 degree millView attachment 728551View attachment 728547 View attachment 728549

That is a fantastic looking work on that mill. Your welding?
 
Eckie

Eckie

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In case you missed it, Nose clamping options are described in the Milling 101 sticky post #25
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...nts-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-2#post-1508894

The best but to execute most difficult options involve drilling through the centre of the bearing in the mill. This normally requires a tungsten carbide tipped drill bit, a drill press, high pressure, low speed and lots of coolant/lube. You may even break/destroy a drill bit or even two so I use (re)sharpened masonry bits.

As well as gaining extra cutting length Option #8 listed n the link above allows for removal of the chain from the saw without removing teh saw from the mill - This is really useful.

For your aux oiler, there is no need to drill the bar for this - you can allow the oil to just drip onto the bottom half of the chain. Its not as efficient as the bolt method but it will also not become clogged.

Bob L.... can you post a pic of the spot to drill through on a roller nose bar? Wont happen anytime soon, but maybe one day once i get more comfortable... And i would love to be able to change chains without removing the he mill.

Also, in the 101 sticky referencing aux oilers, the link you posted on oil delivery points isnt working for me. Do you have any pics of the preferred drip point you could share?
 
Eckie

Eckie

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Yeah, but he had about 5-6 hours before he even got to 95.... Now if he'd said 81 or 64, he'd have been making sense...

Nice welding and metalwork motolife. I cant imagine being able to make that myself... Granberg's gonna have to fit the bill for me.
 

BobL

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I call it my anti barsag device
Adjustable height position Al tube on a hinge with an Al block with a magnet embedded into the bottom of the block.
Start the cut and when the wood reaches the magnet flip the magnet up out of the way.
working.jpg
 
djones

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Djones....i had read about how folks lift the log to let gravity help. The log lift ideas for jacks are impressive. Is that the granberg winch, or did you buy some kind of other winch and adapt it?

I first saw chainsaw milling on you tube, watched 'the homestead craftsman' mill some big logs, and he had a winch that looked like it really helped. That is one of the add-ons i would like to add soon, whenever i get started....

I purchased a small boat winch from NAPA and mounted it on the back bar. I drive a spike into the ground about 8 to 10 ft. from the end of the log and attach a pulley, that's already slipped onto the winch rope, onto the spike and then back to the mill. It pulls more evenly that way. It then becomes basically a one hand operation. Lock the throttle and crank the winch, if you have a throttle lock set up. There are even pics of one gent relaxing in his chair with his mill rig running by itself as he runs a throttle cable. He has the log canted at about a 45° angle. That just ain't right. Good luck and enjoy.
 

BobL

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Bob L.... can you post a pic of the spot to drill through on a roller nose bar? Wont happen anytime soon, but maybe one day once i get more comfortable... And i would love to be able to change chains without removing the he mill.
Right in the middle of those rivets
The rivets hols a super hard stationary roller bearing race in place - provided you stay inside teh rivets you will be OK,
Barnosehole.jpg

Also, in the 101 sticky referencing aux oilers, the link you posted on oil delivery points isnt working for me. Do you have any pics of the preferred drip point you could share?
The oiler on teh top is the drip oiler - the one one underneath is the old through bar oiler - for comparison - of course this was removed.
IMG_8671.jpg

Have since found the best location is a bit rather around the nose and along the bar about here where the red arrow is.
When the delivery point is too close to the end (to the right of the red line) the centrifugal force will fling it off the chain.
Barnosehole2.jpg
 

BobL

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Ok thanks. It just drips on the bar and Chain right were they meet?
Yep

Maybe a slot in there would be best on just one side of the rail
I'd be worried about wear but feel free to try it.

Rather the oil "drop" onto the chain (whereby it then bounces and is then flung off the bar) its better if the oiler tip is really close (1/16") so that the oil wicks out onto the line between chain and bar rail.
 
Ancient One

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I call it my anti barsag device
Adjustable height position Al tube on a hinge with an Al block with a magnet embedded into the bottom of the block.
Start the cut and when the wood reaches the magnet flip the magnet up out of the way.
View attachment 728916


I knew Yoda was involved!

Great idea. Looking at my 66 inch Stihl bar on the floor, it sure has a lot of flex!!!
 
Eckie

Eckie

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I like to let gravity do it's job and work for me by having my logs tilted when milling and using an attached winch on my mill. I don't have to 8push the mill along, just crank on the handle. Saves a lot of sweat and aggravation. Work easier not harder.
View attachment 728560

Djones....that doesnt look like the granberg winch...i assume some kind of boat winch maybe? What poundage rating does it have? I assume you dont really need a lot... Do you anchor to the log end, or do you use something out past the log?

Right in the middle of those rivets
The rivets hols a super hard stationary roller bearing race in place - provided you stay inside teh rivets you will be OK,


The oiler on teh top is the drip oiler - the one one underneath is the old through bar oiler - for comparison - of course this was removed.

Have since found the best location is a bit rather around the nose and along the bar about here where the red arrow is.
When the delivery point is too close to the end (to the right of the red line) the centrifugal force will fling it off the chain.

Bob L..thanks for the pics and info/clarification
 
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