Nik's Poulan Thread

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I'd try on eBay. Lots of parts for countervibes (of which your 4000 is one) and lately I've seen some really good deals on new air filters (like 2 for under $10)
You'll love that saw. Very old school and easy to work on. Usually only need to replace fuel lines and rebuild the carb to get it running well. Sometimes the auto oil pumps quit working because of a bad diaphragm (like in the carb) and the diaphragm needs to be replaced. The auto oiler in Countervibes is driven by an impulse to a diaphragm instead of a gear driven oiler. Many have a manual oiler too, so you have a backup and/or additional oiling capability if you are cutting really hard wood.
But if it oils poorly, first try mixing 3 parts kerosene or diesel with one part bar oil and putting that in the oil tank. If it is just gummed up that may fix it easily.
Those saws are not blazing fast on chain speed, but if you just let them chug away they will chew thru anything. I find this way of bucking a lot more relaxing.
My 3700 is my favorite bucking saw.
 
I'd try on eBay. Lots of parts for countervibes (of which your 4000 is one) and lately I've seen some really good deals on new air filters (like 2 for under $10)
You'll love that saw. Very old school and easy to work on. Usually only need to replace fuel lines and rebuild the carb to get it running well. Sometimes the auto oil pumps quit working because of a bad diaphragm (like in the carb) and the diaphragm needs to be replaced. The auto oiler in Countervibes is driven by an impulse to a diaphragm instead of a gear driven oiler. Many have a manual oiler too, so you have a backup and/or additional oiling capability if you are cutting really hard wood.
But if it oils poorly, first try mixing 3 parts kerosene or diesel with one part bar oil and putting that in the oil tank. If it is just gummed up that may fix it easily.
Those saws are not blazing fast on chain speed, but if you just let them chug away they will chew thru anything. I find this way of bucking a lot more relaxing.
My 3700 is my favorite bucking saw.
Thanks friend. Sounds like old macs slower chain speed but makes up for it in brutal torque.
 
Thanks friend. Sounds like old macs slower chain speed but makes up for it in brutal torque.
Pretty much.
Funny how you can get an old used 3400 or 3700 for around $100, but it is a pro class 50 to 60 cc saw that was made in the USA back when quality craftsmanship mattered and it will essentially cut with current equivalent sized saws. May not be quite as quick initially, but it won't wear you out and you can comfortably cut for hours with it.
In addition to the fantastic torque, I just love the rumble of the exhaust. Soon as I fire one up it just brings a huge grin to my face :).
 
Shipped one complete set up for a 2077. This other one heading for use on a PP425 out of country.

The cassette comes in red, black and yellow.

Then a bare complete brake band set up. For those that only needed that. It dont come apart like we are used to with a tiny fastener.

Used in the Poulan, Jred, Partner saws.

jcb.jpgjcbb.jpgpcb425.jpgpcb4255.jpgpcbband.jpg
 
Allright I went and found an identical 3.7/18 to last week.Thin ring also and 830 model# again.About 120 serial #'s more than the one I found last week.This one has a new bar and chain,gas it up and it rips.I switched the coils because the first one revs up to about 7 or 8 grand then stutters like the ignition is cutting out.well that wasnt it.I rebuilt carb yday,no difference.Kill wire disconnect no difference.Revs then stutters lean or rich on hi setting.idles all day.I had it run right revving to about 12.5 twice and it ran strong.Any ideas? 135 psi and clean piston.Exhaust is clean and screen removed.I guess I can switch carbs also to diagnose.
 
I’ve got a 4218 driving me nuts. Got it going with all the usual rebuilds. However, with the bar and chain on, it refuses to rev up quickly. Hesitates and seems to bog down. If I remove the bar and chain it responds perfectly. Bar and chain are correct at 3/8 lo pro. Only thing coming to mind is a weak clutch. I’ve therefore ordered one and hope I haven’t wasted my money. This is a client’s saw so I’m adding to the cost exponentially.
 
Allright I went and found an identical 3.7/18 to last week.Thin ring also and 830 model# again.About 120 serial #'s more than the one I found last week.This one has a new bar and chain,gas it up and it rips.I switched the coils because the first one revs up to about 7 or 8 grand then stutters like the ignition is cut.well that wasnt it.I rebuilt carb yday,no difference.Kill wire disconnect no difference.Revs then stutters lean or rich on hi setting.idles all day.I had it run right revving to about 12.5 twice and it ran strong.Any ideas? 135 psi and clean piston.
Hmmm. Only thing I can think of is you might have a bare spot on your kill wire behind the flywheel causing it to short out. Have u changed the spark plug?
 
Funny thing is I bought the saw this morning because it was barely more for the whole saw than a coil alone on ebay (thought for sure the coil) and this one is nicer and 20 dollars cheaper than my first one.I suggest people go back thru offerup for months as this ad was placed over a month ago and no takers.
 
Allright I went and found an identical 3.7/18 to last week.Thin ring also and 830 model# again.About 120 serial #'s more than the one I found last week.This one has a new bar and chain,gas it up and it rips.I switched the coils because the first one revs up to about 7 or 8 grand then stutters like the ignition is cutting out.well that wasnt it.I rebuilt carb yday,no difference.Kill wire disconnect no difference.Revs then stutters lean or rich on hi setting.idles all day.I had it run right revving to about 12.5 twice and it ran strong.Any ideas? 135 psi and clean piston.Exhaust is clean and screen removed.I guess I can switch carbs also to diagnose.
Under the plug cap the spring might not be plunged through the wire as it should be, and ofcourse change the fuel line and filter.
 
I'd try on eBay. Lots of parts for countervibes (of which your 4000 is one) and lately I've seen some really good deals on new air filters (like 2 for under $10)
You'll love that saw. Very old school and easy to work on. Usually only need to replace fuel lines and rebuild the carb to get it running well. Sometimes the auto oil pumps quit working because of a bad diaphragm (like in the carb) and the diaphragm needs to be replaced. The auto oiler in Countervibes is driven by an impulse to a diaphragm instead of a gear driven oiler. Many have a manual oiler too, so you have a backup and/or additional oiling capability if you are cutting really hard wood.
But if it oils poorly, first try mixing 3 parts kerosene or diesel with one part bar oil and putting that in the oil tank. If it is just gummed up that may fix it easily.
Those saws are not blazing fast on chain speed, but if you just let them chug away they will chew thru anything. I find this way of bucking a lot more relaxing.
My 3700 is my favorite bucking saw.

Damn nice saws. The low setting on the husky gauge then 5 swipes more gives a nice aggressive chain. Careful attention to the tune gives pretty darn good chain speed and the extra mid range pull over a modern high reving 60cc saw allows it to pull that aggressive chain real nice. Every bit as fast as a new saw and can cut slowly in a probable kick back situation which I really love about older saws
 
Under the plug cap the spring might not be plunged through the wire as it should be, and ofcourse change the fuel line and filter.
Nah, tried 2 coils switched them and the old coil runs wide open as is with newer saw.I can't imagine a mechanical reason it wont rev without breaking something. A rich condition at hi rpm?Vapor lock in carb?Does this carb have a check valve?When I took the carb apart it was very clean in there.Vent to tank is just a fuel line to the air currently.Meticulously set the needle height.
 
Nah, tried 2 coils switched them and the old coil runs wide open as is with newer saw.I can't imagine a mechanical reason it wont rev without breaking something. A rich condition at hi rpm?Vapor lock in carb?Does this carb have a check valve?When I took the carb apart it was very clean in there.Vent to tank is just a fuel line to the air currently.Meticulously set the needle height.
I've had the weight come loose in the filter and get sucked towards the hole, also a peice of carbon in the impulse port.
Sounds like you got the ignition system on lock down, are the threads in the plug repaired? Leaking.
 
I've had the weight come loose in the filter and get sucked towards the hole, also a peice of carbon in the impulse port.
Sounds like you got the ignition system on lock down, are the threads in the plug repaired? Leaking.
Impulse carbon? I will check.Also going to replace the check valve which is in the center of carb under the tiny filter.Plug threads are fine.I don't need another running saw.But I must figure out this puzzle. lol.What is this sickness for fixing broken stuff?
 
Impulse carbon? I will check.Also going to replace the check valve which is in the center of carb under the tiny filter.Plug threads are fine.
Probably not your issue but worth sharing....
rebuilt a carb once and it ran great for a bit then started bogging. Had a new line and filter so I broke the carb down again and the inlet screen was covered over. ?????
cleaned it only to have the same thing happen again. ???? Nearly took up cursing again but I knew the Good Lord would win that one so I broke it down again. Checked my can of gas- crystal clean. Flushed the fuel tank on the saw- standard little bit of junk but was racking my brain on how it was getting past the new filter😡😡😡😡!!!!! Last piece of the puzzle was the filter.
It must have been made on Friday because it did not have a full load of filter media in the cage. Wide open shot up the line with zero filtration! Grrrrr
On the up side , I’m real good at getting the carb out of that particular saw!! A real pro at it I am!!
 
9050 - Is that a Tillotson carburetor with a built in governor? Try searching and you will find some threads with information on identifying the carburetor and disabling the governor if you decide to go that route. Older saws did not have electronic ignitions with built in rev limiter so they went with air vane governors, governed carburetors, and fixe H jet carburetors.

Mark
 
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